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Docwheelhorse

Need help from Gurus please.

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Docwheelhorse

Hello Everyone,

Briggs Intek V-Twin 726 cc 26 hp...

Motor ran and sounded good, but it was gutless... opened up valve covers and found bent push rod from exhaust valve guide creeping out (only one side... other side perfect).

So... pulled both heads and tore them down... tapped guide back in to same spot as good head and then staked it with punch. Cleaned heads and valves then lapped them in (both heads). Put all back together and motor runs but is popping through exhaust... playing with choke makes it better. Revving motor to 4000 give or take makes it better.

Seems like a no brainer fuel issue but people are telling me I still have a valve issue. Thoughts? Before I start tearing into it again... these Nikki 2 bbl carbs are expensive and look difficult to clean / rebuild.

 

Thanks Tony

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953 nut
8 hours ago, Docwheelhorse said:

motor runs but is popping through exhaust.

1)..... Was it doing this before you performed your work on the head?

2)....  Are you absolutely sure the valves are properly adjusted?

3)....  Did you check the push rods and valve stems to make sure none are bent?

4)....  Have you removed the exhaust manifold to see which cylinder (or both) the popping is coming from?

 

:twocents-02cents:  Any time a new mystery ailment pops up after some work has been performed I am generally  of the opinion that something was overlooked in that repair. If you didn't have a fuel issue before the head work why would you think you do now? "popping through the exhaust" should be a valve or timing issue. If it is only present in one cylinder then it is not timing.

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N3PUY

What does that carb look like?

Can you post a pic of it.

I had a similar problem.

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illinilefttackle
3 hours ago, 953 nut said:

1)..... Was it doing this before you performed your work on the head?

2)....  Are you absolutely sure the valves are properly adjusted?

3)....  Did you check the push rods and valve stems to make sure none are bent?

4)....  Have you removed the exhaust manifold to see which cylinder (or both) the popping is coming from?

 

:twocents-02cents:  Any time a new mystery ailment pops up after some work has been performed I am generally  of the opinion that something was overlooked in that repair. If you didn't have a fuel issue before the head work why would you think you do now? "popping through the exhaust" should be a valve or timing issue. If it is only present in one cylinder then it is not timing.

Sounds like # 3- valve sticking in guide- just enough to not close quickly- my 2 cents- Good Luck- Al

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W9JAB

  valve sticking open- just enough to not close quickly or carbon build up on the seat.

to avoid a long and costly valve job, run (adjust) the valve on the loose side, it will sound awful (clattering) but will pound in a seat.

I have done this for years with my Harley pan-head, and held off doing a vale job for quite a few seasons.

 

Edited by W9JAB

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oldredrider

The larger v twin Briggs are infamous for having valve train issues.  Do a Google search and you'll find you are not alone. Go Kohler Command. IMHO.

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Docwheelhorse

Hello All,

Got this motor when it was running on one cylinder. Found the bent push rod and guide issue. Corrected that and FULLY disassembled both heads and cleaned everything spotless and lapped valves in. No sticking going on... today I sent carb to be rebuilt by pro. Rebuild kit ~$80 and labor $35. Ill be honest these Nikki 2 bbls scare me. Lots of little itty bitty parts and there complicated. 

 

I think its fuel (hope it is), as these Nikki 2 bbls feed each cylinder off each bbl. So... if this poor Briggs was limping along on one cylinder for who knows how long then maybe that jet is plugged and it explains why playing with choke helps.

 

BTW... with all due respect, im getting tired hearing "get a kohler..., throw that Craftsman in dump, burn it.... etc..." 

 

I USED to be that way and have since changed my thoughts and see the value in all brands of tractors and motors... no need to pick on each other. 

 

Remember what all of us where told... if you havent anything nice to say then dont say anything. 

 

This Briggs will run and run correctly. I just have to figure it out. Next step is carb, if that doesnt work I will swap on a known good set of ignition coils (read it might be that) and finally another known good set of heads.

 

It will run.... it wants too and is close.

 

Tony

8 hours ago, W9JAB said:

  valve sticking open- just enough to not close quickly or carbon build up on the seat.

to avoid a long and costly valve job, run (adjust) the valve on the loose side, it will sound awful (clattering) but will pound in a seat.

I have done this for years with my Harley pan-head, and held off doing a vale job for quite a few seasons.

 

Valves cannot be run loose on Briggs... loose equals inop decompression and hard / no crank / burned up starter.

 

Valves are at .004 just as Briggs wants.

 

Tony

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953 nut
12 minutes ago, Docwheelhorse said:

BTW... with all due respect, im getting tired hearing "get a kohler..., throw that Craftsman in dump, burn it.... etc..." 

 

I USED to be that way and have since changed my thoughts and see the value in all brands of tractors and motors... no need to pick on each other.

Pardon me, no one bashed anything on this post but if that is your attitude then I don't need to read anything you post from now on!

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Howie

Playing with one of those 20hp Inteks here, and the thing will pop some if it is not pulling enough fuel thru it. The original issue was it would

only run on one cylinder at full throttle. Would drop off on the one cylinder by going to idle position. Compression was low on that cylinder

so I corrected that issue. Finally got it to run halfway decent today, had main body in carb cleaner for a couple of hours today. Those carb

kit are pricey for what is in them! This was somewhat self inflicted as I used the one on this one for another engine to get it back to the owner.

I changed coils around and a bunch of other stuff, came back to the carb. Those valve guides are a lot of times to an overheating problem,at

least what I have ran into. Someone mentioned timing but it can't be adjusted. If flywheel key is good and clearance between coil and flywheel

is correct that is where it will be.

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Docwheelhorse
17 minutes ago, Howie said:

Playing with one of those 20hp Inteks here, and the thing will pop some if it is not pulling enough fuel thru it. The original issue was it would

only run on one cylinder at full throttle. Would drop off on the one cylinder by going to idle position. Compression was low on that cylinder

so I corrected that issue. Finally got it to run halfway decent today, had main body in carb cleaner for a couple of hours today. Those carb

kit are pricey for what is in them! This was somewhat self inflicted as I used the one on this one for another engine to get it back to the owner.

I changed coils around and a bunch of other stuff, came back to the carb. Those valve guides are a lot of times to an overheating problem,at

least what I have ran into. Someone mentioned timing but it can't be adjusted. If flywheel key is good and clearance between coil and flywheel

is correct that is where it will be.

Thank you sir... your experience is giving me hope that the cleaned / rebuilt carb will have me back out on the track shortly.

 

Tony

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ohiofarmer

Something to think about. If your 26Hp intek is like mine, keep in mind that it has a solenoid that shuts off fuel flow to the carb when the key is turned off. It that valve does not fully close, it could cause 'afterfire".or Dieseling That is what the manual says.

  There is a little plunger in the solenoid.I suppose a dirty one could affect the fuel level in the float bowl Look for the solenoid at the base of the fuel bowl.  You probably already know this stuff, but on the outside chance that you don't , well there you are.

 

 I got one of those tractors for free last year with a 54" deck. Someone wired the battery backwards and cooked the coil wiring, so I did not even wire the kill switch back to the new coils. The fuel solenoid shuts it off OK. Mine is a Husky from TSC

 

 Be aware that if there are mice around, they love to build engine killing nests inside the engine tins.......

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gwest_ca

Had an engine that always have an intermittent cough out the exhaust that bugged me. Started using Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel and it eliminated it eventually. Took about 1/2 a tank to do it. There is something in MMO that does not burn off leaving everything looking wet. I'm thinking that is what is lubricating the valve stems and allowing the valves to close every time eliminating the odd spit out the exhaust. The valve springs are not that strong and the MMO seems to help the valves keep up to everything else.

 

Garry

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Docwheelhorse

I agree... valvesprings are not very stout. Ive also heard of cams going flat... I imagine increasing spring rate would definietly increase cam failure rate.

 

Tony

Edited by Docwheelhorse

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