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Cglisson01

Rj58 gas tanks

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Cglisson01

Hey everyone. I'm new to wheel horses and I just purchased my first rj 58. I am wanting to try and restore it to as close to original as I can and one thing I'm not sure of is if it has the correct gas tank. It appears to be original, but the valve is up towards the front of the tank / close to the grill. Could it be an original tank? And if not, where might I be able to find one? Thanks, Chris 

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Adams94

:wwp:    We require pictures, it's a rule:text-lol:      The rj 58's are fun!

 

:WRS::rs:

Edited by Adams94
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SylvanLakeWH

:text-welcomeconfetti:

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Cglisson01

I don't have any pictures of the gas tank, I can try and get some here soon. But here is a picture of my tractor. 

IMG_0499.JPG

IMG_0496.PNG

Edited by Cglisson01
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SylvanLakeWH

:text-coolphotos: :thanks:

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wallfish

:WRS:

The tank outlet should be at the other end of the tank but I would be more concerned with the cut up hood, cut up belt guard and the front rims. No one will ever notice the tank.

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Cglisson01
7 hours ago, wallfish said:

:WRS:

The tank outlet should be at the other end of the tank but I would be more concerned with the cut up hood, cut up belt guard and the front rims. No one will ever notice the tank.

The hood is minor, I'm pretty good at metal fabrication, so that is no big deal. I have a set of front rims not in picture. And a new belt guard is on its way. So now I'm trying to figure out the gas tank issue so I can correct that if need be. 

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953 nut

:WRS:     Glad to see this little :wh: will be getting some much needed love.   :text-coolphotos:

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wallfish
2 hours ago, Cglisson01 said:

The hood is minor, I'm pretty good at metal fabrication, so that is no big deal. I have a set of front rims not in picture. And a new belt guard is on its way. So now I'm trying to figure out the gas tank issue so I can correct that if need be.

Perfect, that stuff is usually the more difficult things to get right.

Tank should be a larger oval shaped Kohler tank (3 Qt. ?). If it's the correct size tank you can just move the outlet to the other side or move the fill neck and solder in place. That's the easiest way for a skilled metal guy unless you can find a real one.

Correct RJ-58 tanks are very difficult to find because of the location of both the fill neck and outlet plus they can go for $100+. The RJ tank has the fill neck closer to the edge than the majority of tanks you can find, like the Suburban style tanks plus the outlet location again. That's possibly the tank you may have now.

Try posting a wanted ad in the classified section, maybe someone has a correct tank.

 

Since it seems you are going the way of a factory correct restore, here are some things noticed from your pic

Tank straps should be spot welded to the hood, no holes

Correct front rims will not have any holes for weights.

RJ did not have foot rests.

Tool box and fenders were an option so either way is correct

Steering wheel looks welded on and should just use a roll pin

The throttle lever is not correct

Clinton engine should be a B1290 and I think they used a different recoil. (forgot the correct spec#)

Hope this helps

s-l500.jpg.289815b2bcecd5f626cfd58702a6cb78.jpg

Edited by wallfish
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Cglisson01

Thanks for the detailed response. I knew I made the right choice by joining this site. I'm glad you mentioned the hole in the rims to, because I was concerned that the ones I had might not be correct since they didn't have a hole in them for the weight. 

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wallfish

Perfect again! Those solid rims are harder to find too but the holes can always be filled in. Some rims had only one hole like the 1960 tractors, then 2  holes in '62 going forward.

Even tougher to find are the rims without the bigger lip on the edge. Those were used up until the early RJ-58 tractors. They look like the edge on the front rims you have pictured above and were used on the earlier tractors.

You can find the original style shut off switch, has a single wire pole to ground. They can be found a number of places but if you search 'Homelite switch" on epay, you will see some. $5

I may have a pattern for the throttle lever. Just cut it out of sheet metal and use the base of the one that's on there which is the same as original. Vendor Glenn Pettit sells the plastic knobs.

Just throwing stuff out there as options

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Cglisson01

I will have to take a picture of the rims this afternoon and post on here. I will do the same with the gas tank. I never would have guessed that the design of the front rims would tell so much about the year of the tractor. I really appreciate all the good information :handgestures-thumbupright:

Edited by Cglisson01
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wallfish
1 hour ago, Cglisson01 said:

I never would have guessed that the design of the front rims would tell so much about the year of the tractor.

In most cases they really don't because they are so often changed. WH used calcium chloride to fill the front tires for weight so that rotted the majority of the early tractor rims.

The rims are no big deal unless going for that complete factory restore. I just thought since you were down to the details about the tank, might as well put the other stuff out there too.

Some people want it 100% exactly perfect, others don't care at all but most people fall somewhere in between those 2 . Even if you don't go to that extreme, it's still nice to have the info. @MikesRJ did a full blown factory correct RJ-58 restore and did a nice write up on many steps he took along the way. Plenty of good documented info for any RJ restore.

 

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Cglisson01
49 minutes ago, MikesRJ said:

@Cglisson01, Here's the write-up:

http://www.mywheelhorse.com/modules.php?name=Docs2&do=show_doc&id=2

 

And a few pics to get your juices flowing:

 

031c.jpg

036b2.jpg

037d.jpg

044e.jpg

044g.jpg

060g.jpg

Schnake-05.jpg

Thanks for the pictures mike. They will definitely give me something to go by on comparing mine. You wouldn't happen to know the length of the gas tank would you? My tank looks like it might be longer compared to the one in your picture. 

1 hour ago, wallfish said:

In most cases they really don't because they are so often changed. WH used calcium chloride to fill the front tires for weight so that rotted the majority of the early tractor rims.

The rims are no big deal unless going for that complete factory restore. I just thought since you were down to the details about the tank, might as well put the other stuff out there too.

Some people want it 100% exactly perfect, others don't care at all but most people fall somewhere in between those 2 . Even if you don't go to that extreme, it's still nice to have the info. @MikesRJ did a full blown factory correct RJ-58 restore and did a nice write up on many steps he took along the way. Plenty of good documented info for any RJ restore.

 

I really do appreciate the detailed info. Half the fun of restoring a old tractor is learning about them to. I try to challenge myself to restore one as close to original as I can. 

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wallfish

FYI

@stevasaurus with some other members did a nice job documenting the steps needed for working on that 3 piece transmission when you get to that.

You came to the right place for everything Wheel Horse.

 

 

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MikesRJ

@Cglisson01,

If memory serves, about 12-13" long. Also note the position of the filter/bowl compared to the filler cap. A rather important detail on the RJ.  If your tank is longer it is probably one from a later model and from a much higher HP rating.

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Cglisson01

I went out this morning and measured the tank and took a couple pictures. The tank measures about 11.5 inches long so it might be close to original size and all I would have to do is move the valve. And also, what size tire should I buy for the front rims? Thanks, Chris 

IMG_0519.JPG

IMG_0517.JPG

Edited by Cglisson01
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MikesRJ

@Cglisson01,

The fronts are 4.00 x 8, the rears are 6 x 12.

Here's the link to the owners manual: http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Tractors/TR_1958_RJ-58.pdf

Trans Manual: http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Transmissions/Transmission_Uni-drive_1958_-_1982.pdf

Engine Manual: http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Engines/Kohler_K90_OM&IPL.pdf

http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Engines/Kohler_K90-K91_ServiceEngines_ENS-924.pdf

 

Minus the filter bowl (missing in this pic), this is what the tank should look like installed. I will have to look around. I may have another correct tank someplace.

 

032a.jpg

Edited by MikesRJ
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WHX??

And Mike & 'fish are correct on the recoil showed but good luck finding one. I have the same recoil as you on one of my Clintons till my Schanke  ( I know I didn't spell that right ! :lol:) ship comes in. Let me know if you need parts for the Clinton ....I have connections! :ph34r: Lots of good stuff here too, manuals and whatnot..... http://www.clintonengines.us/Home.html

 

BTW :WRS:

Edited by WHX9
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Cglisson01
3 hours ago, WHX9 said:

And Mike & 'fish are correct on the recoil showed but good luck finding one. I have the same recoil as you on one of my Clintons till my Schanke  ( I know I didn't spell that right ! :lol:) ship comes in. Let me know if you need parts for the Clinton ....I have connections! :ph34r: Lots of good stuff here too, manuals and whatnot..... http://www.clintonengines.us/Home.html

 

BTW :WRS:

Thanks, I will definitely keep you in mind. I think I might be good on parts for now. Once I start tearing into it though, I may need some new rings and gaskets. And if you ever happen to run across a recoil that's original style for the rj just let me know. Thanks, chrisChris

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