Newbie needs help with (I Think) Suburban

[inboardnut 36]

Hi All !!

just signed up!

 

 I bought this Wheel Horse from a junk yard around 25 years ago. I loved the look and small size of it. Brought it home and shoved it in a corner of the barn. Well, now we have grandsons that love old tractors (large and small).  It was an unusually warm February day here and my 6 year old grandson and I decided it was time dig the ol girl out to see what we actually have and what we would need to get it running again.

 

I never really knew what model it is? After looking around the site, am I right that it is around a 1960 Suburban 400?

 

 Any help is appreciated with  direction to try and get her running again?.  Obviously it needs an engine... What would this have originally used? 

 

Rear wheels are locked, like trans is in gear. Shift lever just wobbles like it isnt attached to anything inside? I am pretty sure I was able to move lever into neutral when I first got it. Any ideas what to look for here? 

 

Any other info /insight as to what I actually have is appreciated!!!

 

[benji756 341]

to

[Molon_Labe 731]

That 400 should have come with a Kohler K91, 4hp spec K91-31388A. Great little tractors. Loosen up the dog point screw at the front of the shifter and pull it out and see if the shift rails are lined up. The notches in both of the shift rails should be centered for neutral. 

 

Here's a pic of my 400 to give you a little encouragement for your project!

 

[Racinbob 10,256]

Yup. you've got a 1960 Suburban 400 there. I must say a very nice example too. The first thing to do, as Major mentioned, is to pull the shifter and check the shift forks. In neutral they should look like this:

 

 

Simply use a screwdriver to reposition them if they don't. Put the shifter back on making sure the dog point setscrew hits the hole on the 'donut'. Tighten it just until you feel resistance as you shift it through the gears then back off just a fuzz and, while holding the set screw (1/8* allen wrench) in place tighten the lock nut. The 1/4-20 lock nut isn't shown in the picture. That should free up the transmission. If it doesn't or the forks are already in that position don't force things. Let us know what you find. These transmissions are really quite simple and you'll find all the help you need right here. The 400's originally had a Kohler K-91 on them but some had Clintons that could have been leftovers from the earlier RJ's. The Suburban 550's had Tecumseh's with electric start. Other than that they were identical. I'm not seeing any signs of ever having a battery mounted under the seat so I'd have to stick with saying a 400. OK, let's just leave it at that for now. There's much more but one step at a time. Keep us posted and most of all have fun with your grandpa/grandson project.

[953 nut 51,488]

     Nice save, twenty five years ago you recognized the beauty of a  and now your six year old grandson has the fever  too.     

[N3PUY 1,031]

Looks like the shifter boot is torn.  May have gotten water in the transmission before you got it. 

Something could be rusted.

  Remove the shifter and fill the trans with cheap oil or diesel fuel.

Let it set for a day and then start trying to turn the input shaft and the axles.

It may just start turning.  

 

[russellmc301 600]

they come lookin bad but leave looin great. mine looked rought but witha good summer oif fun it was restored to looking amazing

[Retired Wrencher 4,874]

  Enjoy the project with your family.

[inboardnut 36]

Wow!!! Nice looking tractors guys!!!   Thanks for the warm welcome!

 

I will pull the shifter and check the fork alignment.  I was going to ask about electric start. It does have what appears to be a batter tray under the seat, as evidenced by the battery cable?  

 

 

[SylvanLakeWH 24,084]

[inboardnut 36]

btw,,, We have 4 grandsons total. Three of them are tractor nuts (pretty sure the 4 month old is going to be as well... he's just not talkin about it yet...lol)  The 10 year old grandson was busy riding the Speedex S24 while the 6 year old and I dug the Wheel Horse out. Hope you dont mind a pic of it ... the Suburban is in background... first time it has seen daylight in the 25 years. 

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,034]

Great story and welcome! Everyone here will help you with your project.

[Racinbob 10,256]

That cable could be an indication of a 550 rather than a 400. As I said they are identical save for the motor. The fenders and tool box were standard on the 550 and an option on the 400.

Edited February 18, 2017 by Racinbob

[AMC RULES 36,941]

You know the history behind the Speedex, and Pond () brand names...

both manufactured by brothers? Cool tractors you've got there. 

                              

[evanloock 216]

If it was a 550 you should see either a solenoid mounted to the front face of the tool box or two holes were it was mounted.

[Racinbob 10,256]

I believe you'll find that the 550's didn't have a solenoid. I'm sure many folks added a solenoid over the years.

[evanloock 216]

The 550 parts addendum shows the same 3 post solenoid as the 551.  The 550 also had a battery bracket that secured the battery to the tool box.  You are wrong about the solenoid.

Edited February 18, 2017 by evanloock

[Racinbob 10,256]

That could be but I had a 550 back in the mid 70's that just utilized the switch. I know the 551 has a solenoid per the wiring diagram and maybe that addendum made the change for the 550. A lot of goofy things happened with Wheel Horses especially in the early years. The lack of the bracket leads me to believe it's a 400. It could easily be either one but in any case that's a dandy and looks to be about as original as they come.

[wallfish 15,905]

The serial # for your tractor is/was on the little metal plate between the levers.

If water is in that trans, it's possible for it to be frozen which could lock the trans too.

Hard to tell from the pic but it appears there's an older style attachment foot pedal on the right side foot peg

 

Not that it really matters but I was also under the impression 550s used a solenoid attached to the tool box. One being there or the mounting holes is one way to try and identify if a tractor is a 550. Earlier 400s didn't have the hole in the hood for a key switch but his pic above just misses that area of the hood next to the steering shaft.

[evanloock 216]

The pedal on the right side is the engagement pedal for the 1960 RMR-32 mower deck.  It had to be held down the engage the mower drive.  When released the mower drive was declutched. His tractor also has the belt guard and rear lift arm that goes into the slot hitch for the mower.  In addition he has the auxillary hitch that allowed towing of impliments without removing the mower lift.

Edited February 18, 2017 by evanloock

[Racinbob 10,256]

Gadzooks!! My curiosity was aroused and I just had to go out and check my 400. I knew the hole was in the dash to the right of the steering column. It's my understanding that the later 400's had the hole and I relocated the kill button that was on the motor shroud to that location. What I wasn't sure of is the holes in the tool box. By golly, mine has the holes. Could it originally been a 550   No matter, it will always be a 400 to me because is says that on the control lever plate

 

@inboardnut are you thoroughly confused now?

Edited February 18, 2017 by Racinbob

[evanloock 216]

Back before the former Wheel Horse employee who was my contact at Toro retired I could call with a serial # and not only determine the model, but the build date and shipping location for the early tractors.  This info was hand written in a ledger.  Another clue to look for is additional wear on the right side interior of the tool box.  This is where the battery was located.  The battery was held in place by a large, square shaped u-bolt that went around the tool box and bolted at the top side of the battery to a metal bracket that was covered in a rubbarized coating.  You can look underneath the toolbox and see if there is  wear line where this u-bolt would have been.  I have only seen one 550 that still had the bracket in place.  I bought the last NOS bracket from Chandler's Sales & Service (in the old Wheel Horse factory  location before they moved to West Ireland Rd.) back in the 1990's.  Apparently there was a shorting problem with the bracket as a service bulletin advised on cutting a notch in the bracket.

The kill mechanism on the 400 was a screw on the throttle bracket that shorted the ignition when the throttle was pulled back.  The later 400's still used this mechanism and the hole to the right of the steering shaft had a metal plug installed.

Edited February 18, 2017 by evanloock

[inboardnut 36]

Here is pic of dashould plate... pretty masty. Not sure of you can pull an from it somehow? 

Pic of dash...

[wallfish 15,905]

2 hours ago, inboardnut said:

Here is pic of dashould plate... pretty masty. Not sure of you can pull an from it somehow?

That's a tough one and possibly too far gone. The number was printed on and not stamped into the metal. But after some very careful cleaning, you may be able to make out the stain the ink leaves in the steel.

 

3 hours ago, Racinbob said:

Gadzooks!! My curiosity was aroused and I just had to go out and check my 400. I knew the hole was in the dash to the right of the steering column. It's my understanding that the later 400's had the hole and I relocated the kill button that was on the motor shroud to that location. What I wasn't sure of is the holes in the tool box. By golly, mine has the holes. Could it originally been a 401   No matter, it will always be a 400 to me because is says that on the control lever plate

 

@inboardnut are you thoroughly confused now?

A possible 550 Bob. Time to do some further investigation if it even matters.

[953 nut 51,488]

22 minutes ago, wallfish said:

possibly too far gone. The number was printed on and not stamped into the metal. But after some very careful cleaning, you may be able to make out the stain the ink leaves in the steel.

I wonder if the number would be preserved by cleaning the plate in an "E-Tank"?