Jump to content
Stormin

Wheel mod.

Recommended Posts

 
chris sutton

That's a cool mod Norm, they look really good. :bow-blue:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
maxiblue

really nice work

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
benji756

very nice work there

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tankman

Great work. Look very stylish  :handgestures-thumbupright:.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
farmer

Excellent Stormin:handgestures-thumbupright:, this is exactly what I was planning to do for my commando 8 (looking to use it for inter- row cultivation). Thanks for posting the process. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
meadowfield

Nice work Norm :thumbs:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Stormin

  The wheels got top coated today and then fitted to the tractor.

 

DSCF0003.thumb.JPG.36652840e8e23916c853ba85a6bb7790.JPG

 

DSCF0004.thumb.JPG.39e85a8fddeab31d5bee96c4acb54ee4.JPG

 

  The fender was raised by 7/8th's" to give a little more clearance. This showed another mod needed. The hole for the fuel tank filler cap needs enlarging. You can't get hold of the cap.

 

DSCF0005.thumb.JPG.0e4b7056f9e0dc3cc62ddda2f95f4e5d.JPG

 

  The back edge of the foot plate is fouling the tyre and needs altering to bring it forward. The bottom of the fender will also have to be altered to allow for the mod to the foot plate.

 

DSCF0006.thumb.JPG.477875833f5b9aef7dafe1cc09ba1293.JPG

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ohiofarmer

 There might be another way to go about this.  I once lost a wheel on a backhoe because the factory forgot to weld both sides of the rim to the wheel center.and the rim cracked. i was able to buy a new [rim only] and re-use my old center by cutting the old one away carefully with a grinder and re-using the wheel center. Perhaps one could find a suitable width wheel ,cut out the center,and use just the rim on the wheel horse center. A picture is worth a thousand words, so here is the process.http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/02/Steelies/

 

 It is not really as difficult as you think to cut the center out of a wheel for re-use or to cut the rim from a wheel center you do not want. In one case, you destroy the unwanted rim and in the other case you destroy the wheel center to get the center and rim  you want  It was actually very easy to eliminate the wheel runout on the backhoe. we made a runout gage from a piece of rebar mounted on concrete blocks and used the tractor to turn the mounted wheel like a giant lathe. Our refurb wheel had less runout when welded than the factory wheel on the other side of the machine

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Stormin

As they say. There's more ways to skin a cat, than by chopping it's legs off. :handgestures-thumbupright:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
obone

So do you have to drill out the valve stems anytime you change to tubes? The ones I did were kind of hard to get the valve stem though. Very nice job!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Stormin

  Tubeless valves are smaller. I measured the dia of the tube valve stem and drilled to suit.

 

  Today, I cut off the folded edge of the footplate. This has given 3/8" - 1/2" clearance 'tween tyre and plate. Should be ok without altering anything else. I also enlarged the hole for the fuel filler cap. Paintwork touched up and everything assembled.

 

DSCF0008.thumb.JPG.3e300c92b3ffe0ae0b101a4b4df42536.JPG

 

DSCF0009.thumb.JPG.a9774c1e457fc5f36bf9c7a26d88d7d3.JPG

 

And a comparison.

 

DSCF0010.thumb.JPG.9cc1b63551cc303329797b3fa9955e4d.JPG

 

The difference was a little more than I expected. About 3-1/4".

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
smoreau
On 2/19/2017 at 1:22 PM, Stormin said:

  The wheels got top coated today and then fitted to the tractor.

 

DSCF0003.thumb.JPG.36652840e8e23916c853ba85a6bb7790.JPG

 

DSCF0004.thumb.JPG.39e85a8fddeab31d5bee96c4acb54ee4.JPG

 

  The fender was raised by 7/8th's" to give a little more clearance. This showed another mod needed. The hole for the fuel tank filler cap needs enlarging. You can't get hold of the cap.

 

DSCF0005.thumb.JPG.0e4b7056f9e0dc3cc62ddda2f95f4e5d.JPG

 

  The back edge of the foot plate is fouling the tyre and needs altering to bring it forward. The bottom of the fender will also have to be altered to allow for the mod to the foot plate.

 

DSCF0006.thumb.JPG.477875833f5b9aef7dafe1cc09ba1293.JPG

 

 

 

I added my spacer below the seat stand which raised the fuel tank. This does cause a mod being made to the front tank mount also, but easy to take the cap off. 

 

The tires and rims look great!! I want some now!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Stormin

 The folded edge of  the footplate was cut off and gave 3/8" clearance, 'tween tyre and footplate rear. That should suffice for now. See how things go in use.

 

DSCF0008.thumb.JPG.c08adea313d65d6ebc85f0e105102663.JPG

 

  At some future time, I'll be looking at raising the front to level things out. 

 

  A comparison photo. Measures at 3-1/4.

 

DSCF0010.thumb.JPG.b300c7c57a26e0922b309c3df52fe42d.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...