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Lots of this bushing business going on with this project. Seems like every pivot point holes are ovaled out and worn so this fixes them up nice & tight.

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Very easy to do with regular bronze bushings, over drill hole & cut to size & a little deburring.

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Hood hinge a real mess, will have to weld new holes in the form of washers here yet. Used flanged bushings here.

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whoops...must been break time!!! :lol:

Edited by WHX9
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Tried out a new rattle can for the rears as well ---I guess it was the resists chipping and the epoxy label that got me. We'll be the judge of that...... Will see how it holds up. Real close in color to Rustolem antique white.

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Looks a little whiter in pics than it really is & dries really fast!  

Edited by WHX9
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I still ain't figured out that floating lift cable Dan, the sheath slides in the tunnel and not the cable in the sheath??

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I use Rustoleum Appliance paint on my rims. But I'm sure the Ace brand is equipment if not identical. I doubt they make their own paint. Probably sourced From rustoleum or krylon.

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3 hours ago, WHX9 said:

floating lift cable Dan, the sheath slides in the tunnel and not the cable in the sheath

The conduit (sheath) should have a clamp that bolts to the top of the transmission.

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Now I get it, why they call you guys Cheeseheads :ychain::ROTF:    Really looking good Jim

 

 

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Woops.....you can't tell me Tom you don't go into Menards and grab some shop munchies...back to the thread Dick I didn't see anything in an IPL That would indicate that stupid clamp..was thinking to add one Richard? 

Tom.. would that kinda hitch setup work for a occasionAl plow set up?

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4 hours ago, WHX9 said:

I still ain't figured out that floating lift cable Dan, the sheath slides in the tunnel and not the cable in the sheath??

I looked over my square hoods and I can't find a clamp to hold the cable sheath. I don't see anything in the manuals either. May be when you get some load on the cable it will tighten against the trans case and hold the sheath in place.:scratchead:

I gotta say you have things looking really nice.

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5 hours ago, WHX9 said:

the sheath slides in the tunnel and not the cable in the sheath??

 

Jim when the tunnel bolts down to the transmission the sheath is clamped down to the transmission, it will stay in place.

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12 hours ago, Shynon said:

tunnel bolts down to the transmission the sheath is clamped down to the transmission,

That's what I woulda thought Tom but it's loose as a goose in there. May try a RJ style type clamp till it rusts in! :lol: Or get some plow weight on it like Dan says.

17 hours ago, Aldon said:

I use Rustoleum Appliance paint on my rims

Go out and whack it good with the business end of a ball peen @Aldon....that will let us know if it will hold up against wheel weight & hubcap scratches.......and :wwp: :ychain: 

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2 hours ago, WHX9 said:

 

Go out and whack it good with the business end of a ball peen @Aldon....that will let us know if it will hold up against wheel weight & hubcap scratches.......and :wwp: :ychain: 

No problem. Standby. I'll scrounge  up the sledge and be right back....

 

"NOT" :no:

Edited by Aldon
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I really like your attention to detail.  Very nice work! 

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The seat box generally has a crimped spot to hold that conduit - it can get pushed out/bent by a solid rusted cable and sheath . Once it pulls loose , it just wears out a spot to allow it to slide freely . I take a dulled drift punch and put a few divots into the channel where the sheath sits , that seems to hold it just fine .

Sarge

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Thank you Sarge will take that tip under advisement and thank you Denny, I find it takes less work by paying attention to the little stuff when building then to get it assembled  and say "why the #@€& didn't I think of that when I had it apart and easy to do?!?!:lol:

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Nothing earth shaking here to update but do have a roller. Waiting on the dash housing to come back from the polisher to get the hood fitted up. Hopefully get the final paint on the fender pan on and get started on the motor. Just have to pop the head & check things out & repaint tins there. Word to the wise on these projects is get things ordered that you know you are going to need so you're not  help up by back orders and waitng.Nothing worse then having shop time but one little thing holding you up from progress!

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Looks great. Really like the tire combo.

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52 minutes ago, WHX9 said:

.Nothing worse then having shop time but one little thing holding you up from progress

You just need to have  more than one project:ychain:

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:text-coolphotos:     What pitch do you plan to put on the roof? I saw the rafter square on the frame and was just curious.  :ychain:

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How about a 12/12 pitch (45 degrees).

More challenging to stay on........impossible actually without toe boards.

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Posted (edited)

Oh you guys don't miss a thing!:lol: Method to my madness....I Just grabbed whateverI square at hand.... I was using that to square the front end up to the frame, the measurement device is not in the picture, and check the alignment and pin/plate slop. New pin/plate did not help Dan @achto , bout 3/16 to almost .25  slop, but line boring the axle  pivot to 1 inch and pressing in bronze 1x3/4 bushes brought in to a 1/16 with the new pin plate. Front end is now tighter than a nun's ......never mine tell you in private :lol: my bad no pics

Edited by WHX9
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How did you go about setting it all up for line boring?

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58 minutes ago, WHX9 said:

New pin/plate did not help Dan @achto , bout 3/16 to almost .25  slop, but line boring the axle  pivot to 1 inch and pressing in bronze 1x3/4 bushes brought in to a 1/16 with the new pin plate. Front end is now tighter than a nun's ......never mine tell you in private :lol: my bad no pics

 

Bummer that it wasn't just the pin. Sounds like the master of bushings cured the issue though.:handgestures-thumbupright: You tractor looks to be coming along great.

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11 hours ago, Aldon said:

How did you go about setting it all up for line boring?

I didn't Aldon ...way out of my comfort range, took it  here

http://www.wegnerautomotive.com

I do his HVAC work and he did it for me. He's got equipment you wouldn't believe to build his race motors. Laser measuring stuff & the whole nine yards. CNC machines that boggle the mind! Lucky to have a place like that near me. He can turn & grind cranks too. Just dropped it off went on some more service calls, came back a couple hours later and done. Cost me a case of air filters. All I had to do is cut the bushings out of stock with a simple tubing cutter and press them in. Nice thing about the bushings is they are soft so will wear & wallow but then just punch them out and put in new.

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On 2/13/2017 at 4:15 PM, Aldon said:

I screwed up my 1st input shaft seal as well recently. Glad to know I am in good company!

Try screwing up an $800 pump seal and having to tell your boss! :) :hide:

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800 Mike?!?!? Made of gold?

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