Stuck exhaust suggestions?

[jellyghost 378]

I bought a custom exhaust from a member, and I am trying to install it.  I was able to remove the original exhaust with some pb blaster and a little tapping.  The pipe coming out of the engine is stuck.  I have a pipe wrench, and I have applied enough pressure to move the tractor and deform the pipe a little.  I am afraid to apply more pressure.  I have also tried pb blaster and running the engine.  Any suggestions for removing the exhaust pipe?

[Blasterdad 2,559]

Try melting candle wax on the threads, I hear that works pretty good.

Run the engine & get it hot, then drip wax on the threads, it will wick up in the threads after a while....

[Jerry77 1,218]

If you own an acetylene torch, heat the pipe ( only )  to cherry red and then twist out - if it is still stubborn, let it cool and then do it again.. it should go the first time...if you don't have a torch, try wrapping the pipe with plastic that contains crushed ice - the idea being to shrink the pipe to let it come free...if you have access to dry ice that would be better - we used to use dry ice to shrink large ( 6" ) steel lines to break them loose... don't continue to deform the pipe - that is putting way too much pressure on the engine..

[obone 142]

You can try better stuff then PB. You can cut most of it off then cut groves in the pipe almost to the threads. After that use a punch to deform the pipe. Hit it at a 45 towed the center of the pipe. That will peel it out. You can also use heat, but be careful.

[rjg854 10,730]

I've used enough pressure to actually twist the pipe off and then a hammer and screwdriver to beat what's left of the pipe out of the threads of the block.

[Ed Kennell 35,756]

Saw the pipe off 1/4" from the block, then saw thru the  from the inside with a SAWSALL or hacksaw blade.    You can then collapse it with a punch or chisel and turn it out.  Easy Peasy.

 

[jellyghost 378]

1 minute ago, Ed Kennell said:

Saw the pipe off 1/4" from the block, then saw thru the  from the inside with a SAWSALL or hacksaw blade.    You can then collapse it with a punch or chisel and turn it out.  Easy Peasy.

 

I have the tools to do this.  Do I have to worry about shavings getting inside the engine?

39 minutes ago, obone said:

You can try better stuff then PB. You can cut most of it off then cut groves in the pipe almost to the threads. After that use a punch to deform the pipe. Hit it at a 45 towed the center of the pipe. That will peel it out. You can also use heat, but be careful.

I just found some liquid wrench.  Is that a better product?

[Ed Kennell 35,756]

Any shavings will be exhausted as soon as you crank the engine.   If it makes you feel better, stuff a paper towel in the pipe before you start to saw, then pull it out with a needle nose pliers.

[obone 142]

I was also afraid or shavings. Make sure the exhaust valve is closed. I used motor oil and a q tip to clean it out. Plus I took a paper towel tube and cut it long ways. Then rolled it smaller. I taped that to my shop vac so I could get inside the port.

[KC9KAS 4,741]

After removing the nipple from the block, put some grease on a pipe tap and clean up the threads.

The grease will catch the crap you clean out of the threads.

[jellyghost 378]

4 hours ago, obone said:

I was also afraid or shavings. Make sure the exhaust valve is closed. I used motor oil and a q tip to clean it out. Plus I took a paper towel tube and cut it long ways. Then rolled it smaller. I taped that to my shop vac so I could get inside the port.

How do I make sure the exhaust valve is closed?

 

I am going to hope that liquid wrench does some magic overnight.  If not, it will enter the operating room tomorrow.

Edited February 5, 2017 by jellyghost

[smoreau 658]

Most every time I have done this the pipe does deform about 1/2 way before it starts to move. Looks like it wound move then it will brake loose. Only one I had to use the punch to fold the pipe to get it out. Not as bad as a broken head bolt flush in the block next to the exhaust port.  That can be fun to get out

[obone 142]

Chances are it is, but I'm sure someone will give you an exact way. You can always stuff some paper towels inside to block the pipe.  On mine I could see the rod and just rotated the engine over till I felt it was in a safe position. Sorry I'm still pretty new at this.

[daveoman1966 3,610]

9 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Saw the pipe off 1/4" from the block, then saw thru the  from the inside with a SAWSALL or hacksaw blade.    You can then collapse it with a punch or chisel and turn it out.  Easy Peasy.

 

I've done this several times...works well.  Just stuff an oily rag into the cut-off nipple to keep shavings out of the engine.   

[Sarge 3,462]

Fastest method is an acetylene torch with a large tip and go big on the heat , otherwise a short sawzall blade and notch that pipe down as close to the threads as possible . If you nick the threads it's no big deal , really..

One or two cuts is up to you , if you go with only one put the pipe wrench's lower jaw right next to the cut so it turns into the cut when going counterclockwise - it will collapse the pipe the thickness of the saw cut you made and it will let go . Two cuts just gives it more room to shrink the outside diameter of the pipe and come out even easier .

Paraffin wax ( canning wax) works quite well also - a good quality Mapp gas torch will make enough heat for it to work - heat the pipe only and quickly . Apply the wax and let it cool for a few minutes . If necessary , repeat a couple times .

 

Sarge

[jellyghost 378]

Thanks everybody.  I don't have a torch.  I hope to use the sawzall after dinner tonight.  I keep treating it with liquid wrench in the hopes of some miracle.

[KC9KAS 4,741]

2 minutes ago, jellyghost said:

Thanks everybody.  I don't have a torch.  I hope to use the sawzall after dinner tonight.  I keep treating it with liquid wrench in the hopes of some miracle.

Please let us know how things work out for you, and good luck!

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,342]

@jellyghost, the method describe several times about cutting the pipe to the threads and deforming it works.  I have used that method on a K181 Kohler once.  Just take your time when cutting the pipe to ensure you don't damage the block.  You will do fine.

[Ed Kennell 35,756]

Jelly, please document the steps of the procedure with pictures and post them here.

  Maybe the Moderators will find it useful and add it to the Instructional /engines forum so this procedure is available to everyone that has to remove one of these pipe nipples from a block. 

      I should have done it last week when I removed one from the K-321 in the low rider project.

 

[jellyghost 378]

The sawzall worked!  It took three cuts, and it was kind of a mess because it is hard to control sawzalls.  I cut through the threads on the engine with one cut, but backing out the pipe cleaned up the threads.

Should I use any type of dope when putting exhaust pipes together?

The new muffler is a nice upgrade.  They are sold in the classified section, and they add a nice bass tone.  I don't have to wear ear protection now.

[pfrederi 17,146]

I always use permatex anti-seize on exhausts.  it will smoke a tad the first time it gets hot but at least you can get them apart in the future if needed.

[TDF5G 2,051]

On 2/5/2017 at 0:44 AM, daveoman1966 said:

I've done this several times...works well.  Just stuff an oily rag into the cut-off nipple to keep shavings out of the engine.   

And you can shop-vac it also.

[obone 142]

I do not know of a pipe dope that can handle that amount of heat, but if you think about it pipe dope stops leaks. Your muffler will always leak (out the end) that's how the exhaust gets out of the engine. So if a small amount leaks out before the end of the muffler I see no harm.

Edited February 6, 2017 by obone

[Hacksawhero123 351]

An old aircraft mechanic showed me a trick to keep fillings and shavings out. Take a can of "foamy" Barbasoll shaving cream (for yer whiskers) and shoot it into your hole or around the hole you want to drill/tap. When you're done making a mess, use a shop vac to suck it up, cream and all. I keep a can in my tool box and it has served me well. 

Mark. 

[Sarge 3,462]

LOL - I've been using Barbasol for years but never mentioned it , thought it would be a laughable subject for others . The stuff stays thick and lasts a long time , perfect for catching metal chips . I use high nickel anti-seize on the pipes and would not recommend using any type of pipe dope , especially anything like Durham's Rock Hard Putty - that would turn to concrete from the heat as it does with hot water pipes , making the joint nearly permanent . You can use teflon tape , but it will just mostly burn away and that joint isn't all that critical to start with .

 

Best tip on a Sawzall - use a variable speed model and turn it's range adjustment all the way down . I had an old 2sp Dewalt and hated it - the newer Bosch is so much easier to control and a lot smoother .

 

Sarge