New XI Snow Blower

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

So I looked at it a bit closer tonight.

 

The auger bearings seems to be OK, along with the sprocket:

 

 

The bad: The input shaft has a slight bend in it (input pulley wobbles probably 1/16" or so and that causes is to bind just a bit on its way around. Toro wants nearly $400 for a new one, does anyone else have any ideas? (19 on the diagram here)

 

 

 

 

 

[WNYPCRepair 1,875]

37 minutes ago, bmsgaffer said:

So I looked at it a bit closer tonight.

 

The auger bearings seems to be OK, along with the sprocket:

 

 

 

The bad: The input shaft has a slight bend in it (input pulley wobbles probably 1/16" or so and that causes is to bind just a bit on its way around. Toro wants nearly $400 for a new one, does anyone else have any ideas? (19 on the diagram here)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Is there a shaft on a classic single stage that might work? 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

5 hours ago, bmsgaffer said:

So I looked at it a bit closer tonight.

 

The auger bearings seems to be OK, along with the sprocket:

 

 

The bad: The input shaft has a slight bend in it (input pulley wobbles probably 1/16" or so and that causes is to bind just a bit on its way around. Toro wants nearly $400 for a new one, does anyone else have any ideas? (19 on the diagram here)

 

 

 

 

 

Brandon, that shaft is either CRS (cold rolled steel) or a grade above 4140/4150 tool steel, if there's a machine shop around take the original and have them "copy" it dimensionally,  should be way cheaper I know if I had the material and dimensions I could do it here at work in less than a shift, especially if it's 3/4",7/8" or 1" diameter it's when it's odd diameter sizes that cost more then cut keyway with a mill, Jeff. 

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

8 hours ago, WNYPCRepair said:

 

 

 

Is there a shaft on a classic single stage that might work? 

 

The shaft on the classic is much longer then the XI so it would not be a direct replacement. The bearings are the same so the shaft is the same diameter. Maybe cut down a good used one if I can find one? The new ones are $157 from toro.

 

The other interesting point to that is that the sprocket is a separate item on the classics (it has a woodruff key and set screw) where as it seems to be attached to the shaft on the XI's. I haven't pulled the cover off yet but I would assume its welded on. I wonder why they welded it on when it used to be replaceable? I don't know that I have heard of lots of them failing or anything... And its stupid to replace a $400 part when the sprocket wears out rather than a... crap, that sprocket is $82.

 

3 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

Brandon, that shaft is either CRS (cold rolled steel) or a grade above 4140/4150 tool steel, if there's a machine shop around take the original and have them "copy" it dimensionally,  should be way cheaper I know if I had the material and dimensions I could do it here at work in less than a shift, especially if it's 3/4",7/8" or 1" diameter it's when it's odd diameter sizes that cost more then cut keyway with a mill, Jeff. 

 

I think the sprocket is welded on, which complicates things a bit, but as I stated just above, the older classics had a replaceable sprocket, so maybe have a machine shop cut a pulley keyway and a woodruff key for the sprocket and just get a new sprocket. 

 

The classic looks like it has a 14t sprocket, is it the same on the XI, anyone know?

 

Thanks everyone for your input so far!

[Sarge 3,462]

The older models it's common for the sprockets to wear out . A trip to the local Farm store will find a sprocket with the correct tooth count and diameter . I just grind out the welds on the old sprocket and remove it , than either turn the hole out to match the tube for the auger or have someone machine it , then weld it in place like the original . Making a new idler shaft as said isn't that bad and even having a machine shop do it is still cheaper than buying one from Toro if they are available .

 

That auger looks like one of mine that found a whole bunch of 3" stone the State highway department dumped to slow down erosion from runoff - it kills blowers pretty quickly . Frozen , dead squirrels will leave fur traces in the blower too ...hit one last year and cut it in half , but bent the auger paddle a bit .

 

Sarge

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

Before you condemn the shaft, could it be the pulley? The pulley would have a tendency to bend easier than the shaft, Take it apart and give it a simple roll test. If you have a dial indicator it would be quicker.

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

34 minutes ago, shallowwatersailor said:

Before you condemn the shaft, could it be the pulley? The pulley would have a tendency to bend easier than the shaft, Take it apart and give it a simple roll test. If you have a dial indicator it would be quicker.

When I turned the shaft, the first bearing bracket (closest to pulley) will move back and forth about 1/16 or a bit more when I feel the binding resistance. That is what led me to believe it was the shaft. 

 

I will try to get it disassembled tonight to find out for sure. 

 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

OK, I looked at the one I bought a few weeks ago, yes the sprocket is welded, cheaper production less machining therefore it's most likely CRS vs 4140/4150 as that's a different/timely process to weld correctly so that's good news next it doesn't need to be a woodruff key as that takes a special cutter vs straight milling a square key which is half the depth of the actual key, then you could have made where it's servicable as the classics, just my thoughts, Jeff.

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

6 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

OK, I looked at the one I bought a few weeks ago, yes the sprocket is welded, cheaper production less machining therefore it's most likely CRS vs 4140/4150 as that's a different/timely process to weld correctly so that's good news next it doesn't need to be a woodruff key as that takes a special cutter vs straight milling a square key which is half the depth of the actual key, then you could have made where it's servicable as the classics, just my thoughts, Jeff.

 

Thanks Jeff!

 

Did you happen to see how many teeth are on it? I did not get mine torn apart tonight as I had hoped. 

 

The seller just offered to make a new shaft for me if I ship back my old one, I am not sure if I should take him up on it or ask for a equivalent monetary value and have it done myself or by someone on here. 

Edited February 22, 2017 by bmsgaffer

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

Brandon, if he would make it to your "new" specs as we have discussed above with a keyed vs welded sprocket and all it cost is shipping you may very well come out ahead, but if you're "gun shy" now wait till you get it tore down and go "shopping" locally, then you may find a new friend in  crime, just my thoughts, Jeff.

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

16 hours ago, bmsgaffer said:

When I turned the shaft, the first bearing bracket (closest to pulley) will move back and forth about 1/16 or a bit more when I feel the binding resistance. That is what led me to believe it was the shaft. 

 

 

When I bought mine, someone had installed the outer bearing by the sprocket incorrectly. The flanges were on either side of the bucket mount. They actually "capture" the bearing (can't recall the nomenclature of the type of bearing) between them, and then bolt to the mount. You really need to get it apart to fully evaluate it. To me it sounds as if there is a bearing that might be binding or the chain is binding.

 

 

Edited February 22, 2017 by shallowwatersailor

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

15 minutes ago, shallowwatersailor said:

 

When I bought mine, someone had installed the outer bearing by the sprocket incorrectly. The flanges were on either side of the bucket mount. They actually "capture" the bearing (can't recall the nomenclature of the type of bearing) between them, and then bolt to the mount. You really need to get it apart to fully evaluate it. To me it sounds as if there is a bearing that might be binding or the chain is binding.

 

 

 

Now that you mention that, I remember reading about others dealing with the bearing. I wish I had gotten it apart last night. I got the chain off the other night, and it was a mess from sitting so long but at least I know now that its not the problem. It seems like it would be pretty hard to bend that 3/4" (i think) shaft in that location, so I think you may be on to something with the bearing.  

 

I was busy finishing up a new tabletop going on our dining room table. I still have to stain and put LOTS of poly on it, but I should at least have time to pull that shaft. 

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

Took a closer look at that shaft and I believe you are right John @shallowwatersailor. I have spun that shaft a bit and now the sticking point is less like a bind and more like a bad spot in the bearings. (That is also when that bracket moves, so theres gotta be something wacky with that bearing.) 

 

I believe this unit was sitting dry for a long time. The grease was pouring out of the bearing when I got it, and I think the seller did that to free it up probably. There is a lot of play in the bearings too. 

 

Also the pulley does seem to be bent just a bit. I will probably leave well enough alone for now and hope it doesn't chew up belts. This probably wont see much use anyway. 

Edited February 24, 2017 by bmsgaffer