BOB ELLISON 2,976 #1 Posted January 27, 2017 WELL here it is a 1054 that I spoke of in my other post ( 701 or 702 ) I FIND OUT WHEN SOMEONE SAYS COMPLEAT IT'S ALWAYS MISSING SOMETHING. All in all I think I did really good on this one, I just didn't want a project in winter with out a heated garage. But I think I did ok. a great spring project. The only thing is I got rear tires and 1 front new tire and a rim. NO BEARINGS AND SEAL OR NUT FOR FRONT WHEELS. I need to get tires on this so I can move it around in my already full garage. I've got a 3 car garage and 4 horse's a cub and a 4 wheeler in there already this will make it 5 horse's in garage and 2 parts tractors in back of garage. So I have to assemble this 1054 to move it in garage. It has a 12 hp kohler and not the 10hp that's supposed to be there and from serial number on engine its a 78 ???. This is what I need to know now does anyone know what the number is for the bearings and seals on front wheels are. I can put axle on and engine for now but I need those front wheels on now. 11 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,197 #2 Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) Nice find Bob. I found the crossover numbers. inner bearing (cone bearing)...#3370...timkin #LM 11949 outer bearing (cup bearing) ....#3371...timkin #LM 11910 seal..........................................#3373...national #204005 These are Wheel Horse numbers...I don't know what any cross reference numbers would be. Here is the Manual. Edit...found the numbers... Edited January 27, 2017 by stevasaurus 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aldon 4,826 #3 Posted January 27, 2017 I think you did Excellent on this one. I think it's a trade off I am willing to make on any Restopration when someone else has broken all the rusty bolts/nuts, and cleaned the majority of the parts to an acceptable level of grime. I see it as more of a kit:) 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #4 Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) 3 hours ago, stevasaurus said: Nice find Bob. I found the crossover numbers. inner bearing (cone bearing)...#3370...timkin #LM 11949 outer bearing (cup bearing) ....#3371...timkin #LM 11910 seal..........................................#3373...national #204005 These are Wheel Horse numbers...I don't know what any cross reference numbers would be. Here is the Manual. Edit...found the numbers... THANK you Steve I did order bearings and seals I found a bearing and cone its a AIP B1SB813 BRNG - ID 3/4", OD 1-25/32 =1.7813 that is the same as Timken $5.07 for both and seal for $3.70 from SKC direct .com thanks for the info You know the one thing I am concerned with is the axle in the diagram where the seal is doesn't have a washer to stop the seal from hitting or does it set on the larger part ? it looks like it was from the discoloration . sorry about not cleaning it. Edited January 27, 2017 by BOB ELLISON 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TDF5G 2,051 #5 Posted January 27, 2017 Looks like a great project. Have fun with it! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,197 #6 Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) There is no seal on the inside of the wheel...the cone bearing must take care of that. Do you have another horse you could compare to? I'd bet almost anything the parts would be the same in any 60's horse. Edited January 27, 2017 by stevasaurus 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #7 Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) 25 minutes ago, stevasaurus said: There is no seal on the inside of the wheel...the cone bearing must take care of that. Do you have another horse you could compare to? I'd bet almost anything the parts would be the same in any 60's horse. seal..........................................#3373...national #204005 on the diagram it shows a seal inside but it doesn't show the bearing its number 162 THE SECOND PICTURE IS I THINK HOW IT SHOULD BE IN MANUAL ( I KNOW THE BEARING IS BACKWARDS I COULDNT TURN IT AROUND IN PAINT) Edited January 27, 2017 by BOB ELLISON correction 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,197 #8 Posted January 27, 2017 I see what you mean...the seal is #162. I'm thinking the drawing is wrong now also. Doing a little more research. One thing we know...the part numbers are correct. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,197 #9 Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) It kind of makes sense now. You would have the #161 bearing on the inside of the wheel with the #162 seal. On the outside of the wheel, you would have the #160 bearing with the castle nut and the grease cap. Does that make sense?? The drawing is not correct. Edited January 27, 2017 by stevasaurus 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elliot ness 1,916 #10 Posted January 27, 2017 Great project, enjoy. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #11 Posted January 27, 2017 43 minutes ago, stevasaurus said: It kind of makes sense now. You would have the #161 bearing on the inside of the wheel with the #162 seal. On the outside of the wheel, you would have the #160 bearing with the castle nut and the grease cap. Does that make sense?? The drawing is not correct. Yes that's the only way it could work. That rims have new bearing race's in them but I can't mic the ID of the race the OD is 1.700 or close to that. I ordered new bearing and race. Don't know why they call it a cone or a cup. I always called it a race. A cone is for butter pecan and a cup is for soup. I will remove the race's in the rims anyways I know the new ones that i orderef will work with new bearing . But the ones in knowabout. I don't want to take a chance. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,019 #12 Posted January 27, 2017 The two bearings will be held in place by the nut being tightened and the seal rides on the larger stepped up area. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #13 Posted January 28, 2017 (edited) @953 nutThat is what I suspected it did because of the shiny part and I checked the spec Of the seal and it's 1" ID and the axle is 3/4 ". Thank you I never had one with this kind of bearings. This is heavy duty like the gt-14. Now I have to find some 3/4x16 Castle nuts. $5.00 TO $8.00 each Edited January 28, 2017 by BOB ELLISON 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,197 #14 Posted January 28, 2017 Bob...take some good pictures of those bearings and seal when you put it back together. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #15 Posted January 28, 2017 Just now, stevasaurus said: Bob...take some good pictures of those bearings and seal when you put it back together. Is this going to be a teaching class or a learning class. I'll do it for others while I'm leaning. The best teacher in the world is hands on. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,829 #16 Posted January 28, 2017 Bob nice pick up. But I think the cub has to go to make more room for RED. Just my Enjoy the project. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #17 Posted January 28, 2017 (edited) 9 hours ago, T1257 RETIRED WRENCHER. said: Bob nice pick up. But I think the cub has to go to make more room for RED. Just my Enjoy the project. I knew I shouldn't have mention the CUB but the red over shadows the yellow, at least its not green. YOU BLUSH RED, PEE YELLOW AND TURN GREEN WHEN YOUR SICK. You know I almost got 3 john Deere's when I bought me c160 and 67 lawn ranger. My sister-in-law called me one day and said there was a old man that died and they were selling everything as an estate sale and he had riding mowers so I went and there was 3 Deere's and she wanted $50.00 each. so as I was looking at the tractors I saw the c160 and the lawn ranger grass grown up waste deep around them . she said you can have both those red tractors for $50.00. the Deere's were 175's and 200's big tractors but I opted for the horse's . I always said to myself I should have bought those Deere's and resold them. Edited January 28, 2017 by BOB ELLISON 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,829 #18 Posted January 29, 2017 (edited) 15 hours ago, BOB ELLISON said: I knew I shouldn't have mention the CUB but the red over shadows the yellow, at least its not green. YOU BLUSH RED, PEE YELLOW AND TURN GREEN WHEN YOUR SICK. You know I almost got 3 john Deere's when I bought me c160 and 67 lawn ranger. My sister-in-law called me one day and said there was a old man that died and they were selling everything as an estate sale and he had riding mowers so I went and there was 3 Deere's and she wanted $50.00 each. so as I was looking at the tractors I saw the c160 and the lawn ranger grass grown up waste deep around them . she said you can have both those red tractors for $50.00. the Deere's were 175's and 200's big tractors but I opted for the horse's . I always said to myself I should have bought those Deere's and resold them. Bob very Good description of colors. When all my uncles on the farm said grab a tractor hook up to a hay wagon MY SELF I ALL WAYS WENT FOR RED. I could never take the color Green. Edited January 29, 2017 by T1257 RETIRED WRENCHER. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #19 Posted February 4, 2017 @stevasaurus well started on wheels and bearings today. ordered the Timken #LM 11949 and received them yesterday from rock auto for $3.07 each and national #204005 seal for $3.50 each . It is amazing the seal cost more then the Bearing .( Did I tell you I was cheap). Both races are new in both rims so I didn't have to order them. Not much to it I did put the seal in one rim with bearing on the new tire after I cleaned the paint off race . The other I have to paint the rim before I can mount it on rim. This was just a dry run I still have to strip the paint off the front axle and paint it . I love that little bearing packer. Had to buy a new 3/4-16 castle nut but only a $1.00 at local tractor shop. I also ordered light switch and dust covers I need 1.785 id cover ill know when I get them if they fit, 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #20 Posted February 4, 2017 After going through every thing for this tractor I think I may have to get rear tires for it. I really don't want AGS for the rear because I don't think it will ride smooth with them. How does the AGS ride on concrete ??? .I have seen the 15" snow tires but I cant find any skinny enough . I believe there 5.00-15 or 6.50-15 . I may need rims as well because I haven't opened them up yet . I don't want to put $$$ in the rear tires not knowing if the trans or engine will run ok. so I cant order tires until I get the tractor up and running. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,829 #21 Posted February 5, 2017 Bob My old Firestones you could feel every lug on the driveway. Not sure how new ones would react? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #22 Posted February 5, 2017 I put a pair of American Farmer ags on the rear of the D last year - their lugs overlap in the center and ride pretty good for what they are , definitely no real banging like the Carlisle Tru Power style does ... Sarge 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,197 #23 Posted February 5, 2017 Thanks Bob for posting those excellent pictures and information. I'm kind of liking that grease thing you have for greasing those bearings. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,019 #24 Posted February 5, 2017 21 hours ago, BOB ELLISON said: I have seen the 15" snow tires but I cant find any skinny enough . I believe there 5.00-15 or 6.50-15 Give A-Z Tractor Parts a call, he may have some good used ones in stock. http://a-ztractor.com/ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #25 Posted March 1, 2017 Well guys I started on the 1054 the body seams to be in really good shape. I got the new front tire on, it came with 1 new tire and rim but I have to pull it back off. As I was trying to mount the tire I used silicone spray and it messed up the paint that I sprayed on the rim. I made a new seat and backrest for it. I had to buy a industrial sewing machine but they came out really good. I wanted to make it red like @Martin did, I really like what he did to his. Mine won't come close to his but it will be a lot nicer then what it looks now. @Lane Ranger made his like the original white/black . The seat needs the wood wedge cut from a 2/4 and the padding added but its ready for mouning after I clean and paint the seat frame. All the sewing is done. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites