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Productive day, and finally an answer to decent battery

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squonk

Chris, your battery should be a 24R. I just replaced mine last week. Counter guy tried to give me the regular 24 but I caught it before he scanned the numbers. Maybe that "F" is an "R" with the ink missing from the curly part. :)

 

9 hours ago, clueless said:

Just looked at the battery in the tundra, it's a Intestate MT24F, I think the MT stands for mega tron, or mega ton,  so my assumption is the F has something to do with the right hand positive post. 

 

Edited by squonk
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ohiofarmer

Coming from a farm background and owning several pieces of equipment large and small [and surviving the 2008 economic crisis] gives me a little perspective on making a lot from a little. I have a few of everything it seems, and I just buy one battery with one backup and use it for as much as I can. Buy a battery with BOTH top and side terminals and use it on a lot of things. My battery of choice is 750 CCA and just one of them will start a Cummins Dodge, a Ford backhoe. a Bobcat, and a Chevy Impala and a seldom used high lift .The same goes for L&G batteries-- buy a good one and use it everywhere.
 The Diesel is the surprise as Dodge put two of those batteries in from the factory, but the second battery is really for the automatic "wait to start" onboard engine heater heater. Plug in the block heater and it will start like it is summer.. If I had to take that truck someplace where it was 20 below and setting for long periods, then the second battery goes in. Of course my wife's car has its own battery as i am not a complete idiot.

 

 Believe me, i never have to clean the crusties from my battery terminals. If you add up all the money I am saving, it could put another Horse in the stable

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Sarge

Fluid Film , and other lanolin-based lubricants/rust preventatives will isolate battery terminals nicely and keep them from rotting . Part of the corrosion issue is grounding and having a very solid contact with no gaps - any gaps in the contact surface and they will start to rot . I prefer a product called No-Ox , but it's not easy to get and made for the communications and satellite industries for their electronics boxes . I had a phone splicer get me a few tubs of it and use it on every electrical connection that can cause an issue if it corrodes - not one problem yet . There are other similar coatings but I haven't found anything that works as well . Some old-school truck mechanics use Anti-Seize on battery posts on semis - and lots of it . Due to the nickel it is conductive and seems to prevent any corrosion quite well , just very messy and will transfer to other things like tar does..lol .

 

There is a lot of good arguments for battery tenders that have desulfication circuitry built in , but the whole process is hard to explain . High cycle rates when charging or when the tractor is in use can seriously shorten battery life . Jump start a starter-generator equipped Kohler and that battery won't last long - especially UH-1 type lawn and garden sizes . Those generators can hit some fairly high and fast charge rates which will warp the plates in a short time - eventually a plate will fail and cause a dead cell or just flat-out short itself out internally between the plates - killing the battery . I generally buy only batteries that have cell caps so I can test them later if there is a problem to look for dead cells . Now those lead-acid open cell types are being phased out and everything is going to active glass mat types (AGM)  that are sealed . The older tractors that used the 22NF won't accept a group 26 so I need to start looking for a better replacement here soon...

 

Sarge

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wrightorchid

The batteries keep going up in price and down in life.  I use a 26-3 in my Generac 15kw generator, and I'm lucky to get 3 years out of them.  The most recent purchase was Yesterday at Advance Auto, and was $118.99 (24 month warranty).  I can't use a different battery due to the size of the compartment. 

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squonk

Where I work we have to replace the emergency generator batteries every 2 

years.  I  get a nice 1000 CCA group 31 battery to take home. I put it on a cart with jumpers connected. It will start just about anything. 

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clueless
9 hours ago, squonk said:

Chris, your battery should be a 24R. I just replaced mine last week. Counter guy tried to give me the regular 24 but I caught it before he scanned the numbers. Maybe that "F" is an "R" with the ink missing from the curly part. :)

 

 

Nope, it's an F, Interstate MT-24F, no curly parts missing. 

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pfrederi

24F is a battery group  (Its terminals are of the normal R pattern)

bat 3.JPG

batt24f.JPG

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Jayzauto

Good Info here guys,  just a quick note,   The  'F' designation refers to 'Ford', as Ford's (Vehicles) of the day used Reversed terminals, compared to other manufactures of the time.  An 'F' or 'R' designation in the part number mean essentially the same thing.  

 

GLuck, Jay

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