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I'm thinking about buying a Leak down tester. Looking online they range from $29 to $200+. Harbor freight sells a Pittsburg brand one for $39. And several other companies sell that same looking one (Different names) for $29 to$49: There is an OTC brand one for $&9 and $199.
So what do y'all use?
Does anyone have the Harbor Freight one? I'm a little skeptical l, but like the price for the little bit I will use it. Of course if it's not accurate it a worthless .
This is my first post. Several years ago I bought a c120 auto and have used it to mow and snowplow with great success. The other night in the midst of a snow storm I was in a hurry to get going, and didn't check the oil and didn't give the engine enough time to warm up. Result seems to be a broken connecting rod, since it cranks now much faster than it did before and won't start when it was a terrific starter before.
So I'm looking for ways to repair the damage I've done. I really love the tractor, comparing it to modern ones that feel like tin foil convinces me that I want to fix this iron horse.
I am in southwest Michigan, and looking for help.
thanks in advance.
I know my voltage regulator is bad on my Onan P220 and was wondering if anyone has an opinion on a replacement, OEM or aftermarket?
Also, I checked my stator leads for AC Voltage and got about 25 volts at 3600 rpm on each. Is this OK? I know it says in the 40’s.
I went out to use my 520H with blower this evening and it won't start. I used this machine a few days ago (for the first time this winter). The battery has been on a trickle charge so I don't think that's the problem. It's done this before where it won't start, won't start, and then starts. Usually that is in cold weather and after I've previously used it to blow snow. I don't have a heated garage so I think it might have some ice somewhere that was introduced as water the last time I blew snow.
Here's what it's currently doing. When I turn the Ignition to 'On' the red warning lights and the dashs light all come on. When I turn the key to start position I get a single 'Click' and nothing more. I tried jumping it from a hot battery just to rule out a bad battery. Same behavior. Following some of the other threads about 520s with trouble starting, I pulled the blue wire off the starter solenoid. If I run a jumper wire from the (+) side of the battery directly to the solenoid I get the same behavior (regardless of key being in on or off position)- small spark where my jumper wire is touching the battery terminal and a single click.
I'm unsure what this means about the solenoid and if that, in any way tests, the starter. Could it be that my starter is bad/frozen? I tried using a heat lamp to warm up that area, but in this weather (and my garage, which is really just a tarp shed) that just isn't going to work.
I've downloaded the demystification guide and started looking at it but I'm hoping someone might have some suggestions. Snow is falling and I'm not making much headway on this.
I have a 79 C-111 that I pulled a running 11hp briggs and stratton engine from and also a front push blade. I am looking to sale both. Push blade 200 Engine 100
I also have the original mowing deck for this mower. I am looking for a WH pull behind tiller attachment, maybe trade?