What are the best lubricants?

[Al C. 1,405]

I'm getting ready to change the oil in my Wheel Horse K241 and K341 engines as well as 8-speed transmissions.  I have always used straight SAE 30 on the engines and the closest thing I can find to SAE 90 on the transmissions.   Before I get started this year, I'm wondering, are there any synthetics that are better for these purposes? I'm curious whether anyone is using lubricants that provide better protection.  

[stevasaurus 22,229]

The lubricants you listed are fine for your engines and transmissions.  I know some guys do use synthetics, Mobile One might be what some use.  They will have to chime in, as I do not do that. 

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

I have so many horses that I wouldn't be able to afford Mobil 1in the engines.I use Traveller brand SAE30 from Tractor Supply.Seems to work for me and most of my Kohlers get an oil change once a year whether they need it or not.Onans that I own also get a filter and oil change about every other year.I do use Mobil 1 SAE10w30 in the hydro transmissions in my workers.80-90 oil in my standard tranny horses.Get that at Tractor Supply also.I try to stay away from the local Advance Auto........too pricey for me.

[cschannuth 3,795]

Fresh lubricants are the key.  Buy the cheapest you can find and keep your fluids changed and full and you will never have an issue. 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

I used Castrol GTX whether SAE30 or 10W30 but now went with the High Mileage (has seal enhancements for older engines to minimize leaking ect) 10W30 blended conventional/synthetic in my 520s engine and hydro, I buy the big 5 quart jugs at Wal-Mart and if you're wanting a cheaper synthetic gear oil 75/90 SuperTech also at Wal-Mart, and as an old car guy my engine machinist recommended the Castrol for break in and continued use especially with flat tappet cams, as well as a product from Risolone (at Advance Auto ect) an oil additive that has (ZDDP)all the stuff they have taken out so it doesn't ruin newer cars catalytic converters ,Jeff.

Edited January 13, 2017 by WVHillbilly520H

[KC9KAS 4,741]

30WT from Rural King....Nothing to good for my Wheel Horse tractors!

[lynnmor 6,762]

I think that most of the oils labeled "high mileage" have some ZDDP. I use it regardless of mileage, the label is to get around EPA nonsense.

[obone 142]

Kohler oil from Rural King is the cheapest I could find. Honda also makes a 4 cycle synthetic oil. I was using car oil, but switched. Because it lacks some zinc "I think that's what it is". Go with straight 30W for summer. If you use a 10W30 or 5W30 in the summer it will leave more carbon on the piston and valve tops. Synthetic has the biggest temperature range and can be used all seasons. You need to use a multi weight in the winter because the engine is cold and thick oil will not lube as good during the warm up phase after starting. Any oil can work, but you just risk wearing your engine faster or carbon build up.

Edited January 17, 2017 by obone

[Digger 66 3,476]

Transmission / differential assemblies on all my toys get the WalMart brand in whatever GL rating the manual(s) call for .

To me , small engines are small engines . They're not engineered with the tighter specs of my Rotax toys . they get Mobil 1 full syn for the wheeler & Amsoil Dominator for the sled .

Use whatever oil you wish as long as it meets the manufacturers specs .

Biggest thing ( with me anyway ) is "dirty" oil is junk .

Change it often your engines will last .

[BOB ELLISON 2,976]

I use mobile 1 10w30 in my c160 trans and engine . Better for winter but in my B80 30w from tractor supply cheep 5 qt and 80/90 for trans.

[tbarnhart 240]

I use a heavy duty diesel oil which has a much higher level of anti-wear additives (zinc or some newer formulation). You can find a lot of different viscosities, but I've been running 15w40 like I run in the Dodge Cummins. The last I bought was a straight 30w. Going to use that next. Choose your brand, although Rotella is available at TSC.

[oliver2-44 8,834]

Engines without oil filters such as the kohler K Series, etc should use a non-detergent oil which is probable what the straight SAE 30 you've been using is.  Non-detergent oils are designed to let the contaminants settle out,  That's why you find sludge build up in the crevices of these old engines (which is actually a good thing) Sadly I haven't found any synthetic oils that are non-detergent.. 

 

Engines with oil filters should use an oil with a detergent additive which is the majority of the modern oils. Modern oils "with  detergent are designed to scrub internal components and keep the contaminants in suspension so the filter can take them out. If you use a oil with detergent and don't have a filter that means the contaminants are kept circulating causing additional wear  to your engine.     

 

Of course as many have said the most important thing to do is change the oil.  Run the engine and get the old oil warn/hot and let it trip out thoroughly.

[Docwheelhorse 2,560]

Having worked in a marine (boat) repair shop and on these tractors and my own "old school" Chevys I would recomend Rotella T 15-40 from Shell. Its diesel fleet oil and is reasonably priced and is dang good!

Just pulled the heads on a 1986 350 Chevy marine engine with unknown hours to diagnose a problem... the cross hatch was still in the bores and motor was spotless inside.

 

My .02

 

Tony

8 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Engines without oil filters such as the kohler K Series, etc should use a non-detergent oil which is probable what the straight SAE 30 you've been using is.  Non-detergent oils are designed to let the contaminants settle out,  That's why you find sludge build up in the crevices of these old engines (which is actually a good thing) Sadly I haven't found any synthetic oils that are non-detergent.. 

 

Engines with oil filters should use an oil with a detergent additive which is the majority of the modern oils. Modern oils "with  detergent are designed to scrub internal components and keep the contaminants in suspension so the filter can take them out. If you use a oil with detergent and don't have a filter that means the contaminants are kept circulating causing additional wear  to your engine.     

 

Of course as many have said the most important thing to do is change the oil.  Run the engine and get the old oil warn/hot and let it trip out thoroughly.

With all due respect... that non detergent thought is an old wives tale. Find me one owners manual from any splash lubed non-filtered engine from say 1965 on up from ANY manufacturer that recommends non detergent as first choice and Ill cover it in A1 steak sauce and eat it. 

 

Here comes the discussion.... but I cant let the ND thing go by. It drives me bananas and these motors deserve the best.

 

Tony

Edited January 16, 2017 by Docwheelhorse
Spelling

[pfrederi 17,128]

Cheap fresh clean oil is better than old dirty expensive oil

[Docwheelhorse 2,560]

6 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Cheap fresh clean oil is better than old dirty expensive oil

My uncle also told me "full" of anything, dirty, old or whatever sure beats run low or empty! 

[clemet 146]

13 hours ago, Docwheelhorse said:

Having worked in a marine (boat) repair shop and on these tractors and my own "old school" Chevys I would recomend Rotella T 15-40 from Shell. Its diesel fleet oil and is reasonably priced and is dang good!

Just pulled the heads on a 1986 350 Chevy marine engine with unknown hours to diagnose a problem... the cross hatch was still in the bores and motor was spotless inside.

I too use Rotella.  Although I use straight SAE 30, and have been for years.  Started using it in my dirt bikes and quads since it held up better than regular car oil to the long beatings those motors would take so I used the same thought pattern with all my small engines.

[JAinVA 4,619]

I think all modern motor oils contain detergents.I have tried to get non detergent 30wt to lube my 10" South Bend lathe with little success.That is because oiling a machine that has no combustion issues involved has a different set of needs.I put Amsoil 90wt in the gear drive transfer case in a 78 Bronco when I rebuilt the case.Got close to a hundred thousand mile on the case and have had no issues.What really sold me on synthetic gear oil was putting a bottle of it in the freezer.After sitting there in sub zero temps for a couple days it flowed like salad oil.It is my opinion that lubrication technology has advanced to the point over the last few year that some of the old recommendations should be questioned.I still run a straight 30wt in the Kohlers and change them every 25 hours because oil is cheap compared to engine hard parts.

Edited January 17, 2017 by JAinVA

[Tankman 3,515]

42 minutes ago, clemet said:

I too use Rotella.  Although I use straight SAE 30, and have been for years.  Started using it in my dirt bikes and quads since it held up better than regular car oil to the long beatings those motors would take so I used the same thought pattern with all my small engines.

Rotella is excellent. Also use straight 30 weight.

Grandsons "need" shop time! Grease guns used lots, oil changed frequently, belt dressing used a lot! Got to keep the boys busy! 

We kids take occasional rides to the local small aircraft airport; 100 Octane, Low Lead, Zero % Ethanol.

Edited January 17, 2017 by Tankman

[Walleye 28]

Napa has Pennzoil Yellow Bottle on sale, like $3.30 a quart right now... cheap oil change. 

 

PYB is a very popular oil. It has an excellent reputation on the Bobistheoilguy oil forum. 

Edited January 17, 2017 by Walleye

[lynnmor 6,762]

13 hours ago, JAinVA said:

I think all modern motor oils contain detergents.

TSC has non-detergent motor oil in several weights and container sizes.

[clueless 2,898]

Been using Rotella 30w in all my flatheads for 30+ years, can't say I ever had a oil related problem. Use Rotella full syn 5w40 in the newer OHV stuff, down here I don't need the 5w part but sure need the 40. Started using full syn after watching Jeff Gordon win at Darlington about 10 years ago in a car that had been over heating for the last third of the race. The last 20 laps steam and water were blowing out the blow hole, Jeff, keep his foot in it and won,did a burn out and drove it to victory lane. All everybody  talked about was what a guttzy call they made and how great the engine builders were. Nobody talked about the oil, which was Full Syn, probably Mobil 1, I think Quaker State was still sponsoring Jeff at the time.

[Docwheelhorse 2,560]

12 minutes ago, clueless said:

Been using Rotella 30w in all my flatheads for 30+ years, can't say I ever had a oil related problem. Use Rotella full syn 5w40 in the newer OHV stuff, down here I don't need the 5w part but sure need the 40. Started using full syn after watching Jeff Gordon win at Darlington about 10 years ago in a car that had been over heating for the last third of the race. The last 20 laps steam and water were blowing out the blow hole, Jeff, keep his foot in it and won,did a burn out and drove it to victory lane. All everybody  talked about was what a guttzy call they made and how great the engine builders were. Nobody talked about the oil, which was Full Syn, probably Mobil 1, I think Quaker State was still sponsoring Jeff at the time.

Oil had nothing to do with it... a bowtie in the grill did. . 

 

Tony 

 

P.s. the few times ive swapped conventional for synthetic on engines equipped with oil temp gauges Ive observed somewhere around a 20 degree lower operating point. That was on a Kohler Command .

[Terry M-(Moderator) 2,125]

25 minutes ago, Docwheelhorse said:

 

 

Tony 

 

P.s. the few times ive swapped conventional for synthetic on engines equipped with oil temp gauges Ive observed somewhere around a 20 degree lower operating point. That was on a Kohler Command .

 

I'm thinking maybe the ambient temp of the engine could affect this too...?   Just thinking out loud.

[clueless 2,898]

1 hour ago, Docwheelhorse said:

Oil had nothing to do with it... a bowtie in the grill did. . 

 

Tony 

 

P.s. the few times ive swapped conventional for synthetic on engines equipped with oil temp gauges Ive observed somewhere around a 20 degree lower operating point. That was on a Kohler Command .

I have a simplicity with the Kohler OHC twin, owned it about 15 years. This engine was notorious for many problems, over heating was No1, gets to hot drops a sleeve. Tractor is mainly used for tilling, grading, and dirt pushing (no snow down here) There are a few modes you can do to help them stay cooler, I've done them all. I started using full syn in it after Jeffs win, the temp on the cylinder block dropped about 25 degrees.  This is the quietest, smoothest, running twin I've ever driven, all though my sphincter still tighten a little when I use it . 

While I'm a die hard bowtie man, me thinks that what ever they were using to lubricate the engine had something to do with it.