Brewer 2 #1 Posted January 12, 2017 Hey anyone , Need some help on a switch..It is actually a new switch that I bought for this 312-8,, I finally got the wiring right on it..So i think..Anyway I go to start and have to back the key off a bit before it will recognize the juice. Is this still a miswire or is it the switch? Any help would be thankful! Brew. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,122 #2 Posted January 12, 2017 (edited) 312-8 were made for several years. Early ones had K series engines with Battery Points ignition. later ones had Magnum engines with magneto ignitons...The switches are NOT interchangeable. Using a K series switch on a Mag engine will produce expensive smoke from the magneto. Which one are we talking about here Edited January 12, 2017 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,488 #3 Posted January 12, 2017 will the start and run once you "Play" with the switch? We will need to know the year or the model number on the sticker under the seat to know what switch is correct for your 312, lots of changes took place during the time they were built. If you have to "PLAY" with the switch to get it to cooperate I suspect it may not be a good switch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewer 2 #4 Posted January 12, 2017 (edited) Hello, Thanks for reply..My model is 2112K806 38057. I have it cranking and sparking I just have to back the key switch off a tad before it will get juice.. I have the switch that was on it also ,it does the samer thing. Some one I have 2 different wiring diagrams and they were both close but maybe a tad difference..But it seems to be good..Not 100%. Edited January 12, 2017 by Brewer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,122 #5 Posted January 12, 2017 (edited) When you say "back off" to get juice...Do you mean when you turn the key to start it cranks and fires but when you release it it dies unless you wiggle it??? You have a magneto system the engine will run until you ground the magneto wire via the ignition switch that kills it Edited January 12, 2017 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewer 2 #6 Posted January 12, 2017 (edited) Sorry, No I mean I turn it all the way to the right its dead but back off the twist just a bit and it will catch ,or get juice. One more thing is the control board is still unscrewed off this and I have a ground wire to that for back up to ground.. Cause I noticed if I move that board it can blow the 15 amp fuse. Edited January 12, 2017 by Brewer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,122 #7 Posted January 12, 2017 After you get it cranking by backing off the switch as little bit it starts.... it continues to run when you release it completely?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewer 2 #8 Posted January 12, 2017 (edited) Hmm havent got that far yet..just noticed it is showing spark when I crank it.. I was happy just to get that far..Didnt think about what you said.. Edited January 12, 2017 by Brewer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,488 #9 Posted January 12, 2017 From the numbers you gave us it is a '89. Here is the manual for your horse, it has a wiring diagram. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewer 2 #10 Posted January 12, 2017 Hey thanks,, But yea I just sprayed it with carb cleaner it ran but soon as i let off switch the fire disapeared quick,,so guess I do still have a problem. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,488 #11 Posted January 12, 2017 Were you having the same problem with the old switch? Where did you get the replacement switch? Is it new or a used one? If you want a good new switch go to your local Toro Dealer or Parts tree on line. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,122 #12 Posted January 12, 2017 Two switches doing the exact same thing strange... Do you have a multimeter? Sounds like the switch is grounding the mag wire in the run position ...it shouldn't do that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewer 2 #13 Posted January 12, 2017 (edited) Yes it could be..I switched the white wire around to different post on starter switch because it at first was getting no fire..Now im getting fire..so thought i had it.. The white wire from the mag that is. I just looked up the model and ordered a switch, and it looked like the one that was on it but I know how that is..I will go back into the wiring diagram and see what else I come up with.. Thanks again! Yes the meter has helped me..but not enough knowledge on this ol machine..and good gosh all the wires to check wires (saftey switches to informing lights).,.wow..lol. And the low oil through the switch..I have some more to figure out here. Edited January 12, 2017 by Brewer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,488 #14 Posted January 12, 2017 Just one other thing that comes to mind, have you checked your oil level? Low oil should interrupt the ignition. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,122 #15 Posted January 12, 2017 The mag wire, the one that if grounded kills the spark is supposed to be a Dark Blue wire...I much prefer the older horses with the simple wiring even and old fart like me can understand Do you have a multimeter?? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewer 2 #16 Posted January 12, 2017 Yes my oil is ok..And yes to a meter..Thats what has helped me get as far as I have.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,122 #17 Posted January 12, 2017 Pull thw switch and lets test it (or use the old one) Use the ohm meter setting on your multi meter. Put the black lead on the G terminal the red lead on the M terminal. In teh off position there should be continuity (e.g. low resistance between them. Turn teh witch to run the meter should show 1.0 open circuit. Should also do that when you turn it to the starting position. does it?? If so the switch is good and we need to consider oil e livel safety switches etc... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewer 2 #18 Posted January 12, 2017 Ok 00.4 on the first one then turn switch and reads O.L. on both switches. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,122 #19 Posted January 12, 2017 (edited) Switches would appear to be OK. Now need to consider a wiring error or a problem with a safety switch... I need help here guys these new fangled machines are not my forte... Need to think on this for a bit...besides its cocktail hour Quick thought...unhook the dark blue wire from the ignition switch. Be prepared with jumper wire to ground it but wait. Then crank her and see if she fires and runs. You can kill it by grounding teh dark blue wire. Edited January 12, 2017 by pfrederi 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewer 2 #20 Posted January 12, 2017 what had me confused is it looks like someone put a different plug on the ignition switch although it will work the colors on a couple are not matching up to whats coming up from frame..so with this diagram I just matched them the way they go.even though color isnt correct..like one is a yellow wire coming from switch but diagram does not show it...Which I just followed the post on diagram to starter switch to get it correct.. Yes I need to run to the store for supper..but I will do what you said when I get back..That yellow wire is hooked to the blue ones from frame which is hooked to letter A what will get me right is getting the colors from frame hooked to the correct letters then will go from there and see what happens. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #21 Posted January 13, 2017 This wiring may help. Each circuit has it's own diagram. The low oil switch only affects the starter circuit. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewer 2 #22 Posted January 13, 2017 Wow.. Thank you!..Now thats the diagram I was looking for.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewer 2 #23 Posted January 13, 2017 (edited) Well I hooked all the wires to switch the way it is showing..So I still have to let off the switch a little to get it cranking around ,and now no fire..Until i disconnect the blue wire coming up to switch then it does fire but with the same issue on backing off switch.. Any ideas anyone? Is the oil switch the problem? I notice when I do a test with the test switch the oil one blinks..Need to locate that oil switch on this engine. Edited January 13, 2017 by Brewer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brewer 2 #24 Posted January 13, 2017 This has me puzzled as to the wire plug at engine..2 red wires are just cut ,yet theres nothing on the diagram about red wires going into this engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #25 Posted January 13, 2017 Before removing the low oil switch be sure to read this over so you do not damage the switch. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
