Model 1067 differntial lost limited slip feature

[pfrederi 17,116]

How much weight do you have on the tractor.  What kind of chains are you using?  Turfs or Ag tires?  Uphill on wet sow and smooth surface is a challenge with out chains and lots of weight.

Edited January 8, 2017 by pfrederi

[tombr77 5]

about 25 # on each side, have tried chains, they grip in snow, but not good on slick pavement - which is what i have behind the plow blade..  its 20 to 30 degree hill, -- i used to be able to plow 3-4 inches of snow going up it  ( which is very impressive)-- before the limited slip gave out.

[pfrederi 17,116]

That is a steep hill.  With my Charger (Ltd Slip) I run 70 lbs on each wheel and 55 on the drawbar plus chains.  You might consider rubber chains on asphalt.  Other thought...plow down hill gravity is your friend.  The hill down t0 my barn isn't that steep and i take a full blade width down but only a fraction coming back up.

 

Edit:  As I said before in my opinion a working 10 pinion will out plow an open differential any day,,,but the open ones can do a good job with adequate weight and traction enhancers.

Edited January 8, 2017 by pfrederi

[stevasaurus 22,229]

You could take a black magic marker...draw a line across the hub and axle on both sides.  After driving it, see if the line is still straight.    To easy to not try.

[pfrederi 17,116]

45 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

You could take a black magic marker...draw a line across the hub and axle on both sides.  After driving it, see if the line is still straight.    To easy to not try.

 It pains me to admit it but there is one other possibility.  A couple years ago my L107 that my father bought new in 1967 started to slip going up a slight grade.  I figured the 40 year old belt had lost its grip... Wrong!!  Neither was it the hub or woodruff keys axle or input shaft.....

 

Turns out one of the rear tires had  lost air pressure.  Sidewalls were stiff enough in the winter so you would not notice.  The bead had broken and the wheel would slip in side the tire... not an every day occurance

 

[formariz 11,849]

Even though I have used the Electro for quite a few years now, I am always learning something about it. I also have a 30% grade driveway with paving blocks. A couple of weeks ago for the first time pushing a little snow up the driveway all of a sudden in the middle of it, right wheel starts spinning like crazy and left wheel just stopped. This is with chains and 50Lbs on each wheel. I have no idea why? Today with 4" plus of snow full plow going full blast up driveway no slipping whatsoever, same machine as always. I have no idea what happened before, but thought the same had happened as it did to tombr77.

[tombr77 5]

plow down when i can - but hill down from house,  fairly flat length then an uphill - so no matter where i start, there is a 30 degree up hill to tackle- an if i cant get up it even with plow raised, i cant plow down it.  I will look into larger wheel weights.   Anyone ever fill their tires ( like on farm tractors)?

[Sarge 3,462]

You can , as some others have done fill the tires - but there is a catch . All the added weight inside that tire can transfer some serious traction and on the older frames break the rear mounting plate (mine is broken now, 2nd time ) where the transmission is bolted to the frame . They can be fixed and reinforced , but the traction can create so much stress to the rest of the tractor eventually something will give . The more traction you give it , the more you can work it , and the more you can break it . I've weighted my rear tires to 145lbs total which is really pushing it .

If you go with 50lb or greater wheel weights and maybe use the rubber chains it should make a huge difference . Garden tractors really aren't designed to run up a steep grade so a lot of caution is necessary .

 

One huge factor you have to know about - the Kohler engine . It's operating limit is 25* , as specified by Kohler . If you turn around or something on that grade and "side hill" that engine you'll starve the oil splash to the rod , which it won't take but a few times and the rod will destroy itself and possibly the crank/block in the process . It's the only major drawback on the older splash lube K series single cylinder engine - otherwise , they are perfect . I have never found any reference as to forward/backward angles against them , not sure if the 25* operating angle applies to just side tipping or if it also applies to forward/back angles ....

 

Anyone ever found an answer for that ?

 

Sarge

[tombr77 5]

sarge = thanks for the 25 degree limit on Kohler... Ive replaced the rod & crank before, (before i had this hill ) and dont want to do it again.  I will get a better measure of the incline !   I will also look for the rubber chains -- that   along with a little more weight sounds like the easiest solution to try first...{ especially if i cant find / make a new C spring}

As a side note, i also replaced the cam shaft --- turn out when i bought it 30 years ago, the opwner had just had it rebuilt -- and said it had 'way more power that before.   After I rebuilt ( broken camshaft) And was setting the max RPM i figured out why - the previous guy had mounted it incorrectly,so full throttle would over rev about 2x.!!!  it put up with this for about 20 years before finally saying 'no more'!!

[953 nut 51,465]

7 hours ago, Sarge said:

Kohler engine . It's operating limit is 25* , as specified by Kohler

Never knew the limit, but got a great buy on a parts tractor once because of this, P.O. had always mowed up and down his long hillside, his son mowed across it once and it developed a knock; told him what had happened and he gave it to me for $ 50 because it was "going to cost too much to fix it". One kit and a few hours of work and I had a good running 12 HP for the project I was working on.