Chris G 3,272 #1 Posted January 7, 2017 Picked this up late this summer. Finally got time to post some picks and start on bringing her back to life. I started tearing it down today and couldn't resist trying to clean all the rust off the ID plate. I couldn't read anything on it in the beginning. Truthfully couldn't tell if it had anything stamped in it. But after a slow process of cleaning. I got it looking good. Serial number is faint but reads as 42388. 14 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,937 #2 Posted January 7, 2017 Awesome looking there... I'm thinking the patina on it would clean up great. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G 3,272 #3 Posted January 7, 2017 I agree. I'm gonna keep the patina on it. Gonna try a small part with oil and another with the clear and see what brings it back to life the best. Also got to redo the duals and a couple other odd things. But all will be worth it when it's done. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPINJIM 1,972 #4 Posted January 7, 2017 Nice Suburban, and original plow. Nice workshop too. I've had good luck reviving the finish by using a Scruffy to lightly clean the surface, then Rustoleum Clear to bring out whatever color is remaining. I don't care for the oiled look because it attracts dust after awhile, especially in the workshop that I also use for carpentry. Good luck with it. Let us know how it turns out. Jim 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G 3,272 #5 Posted January 7, 2017 (edited) Ya I have had good luck with the same method. I've only had the oil method work to my liking on two tractors. But I'm always willing to try both though just in case. But thanks for the compliment on tractor and shop and thanks for the advice. Edited January 7, 2017 by Chris G Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slim67 2,730 #6 Posted January 7, 2017 love the duals and the blade. Im guessing when you guys are talking patina, you mean keeping original finish ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G 3,272 #7 Posted January 7, 2017 You got it. Try and keep it original as possible. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
russellmc301 600 #8 Posted January 7, 2017 this is after is sanded with 1500 then 2000 and steel wooled mine. this it before i sand it i was trying alunium foil. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G 3,272 #9 Posted January 7, 2017 That turned out nice. I couldn't even make the letters out on mine when I started. All I did was used some PB Blaster and a small brass bristle wire brush. I didn't want to be to aggressive and loose the chance of recovering the serial number. I still am gonna clean it up a little more. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G 3,272 #10 Posted January 19, 2017 Well here's the progress. Got it all tore down and now time to assemble it all. Flushed the transaxle, new grease fittings, gonna polish the pulleys before they go back on. But I'm liking the look of this old girl. Sanded everything down to get a good base of the color back and gave her a couple coats of a satin clear and then sanded and gave it one coat of a gloss clear. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slim67 2,730 #11 Posted January 20, 2017 how is this project coming along? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G 3,272 #12 Posted January 21, 2017 Well the k91 that was on it is pretty well shot. There's some savable parts. So for time being I'm gonna repower it with a 5hp Tecumseh. Until I get another k91 to put in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slim67 2,730 #13 Posted January 21, 2017 10 minutes ago, Chris G said: Well the k91 that was on it is pretty well shot. There's some savable parts. So for time being I'm gonna repower it with a 5hp Tecumseh. Until I get another k91 to put in. hard to find k91s these days. I had an old walk behind that had one with a reduction box on the side that ran like a clock. good little engines, but arent all Kohlers? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G 3,272 #14 Posted January 21, 2017 Ya I have always had good luck with the Kohler's. But ya they are getting harder to find and when you do it seems ya got to choose over a arm or leg to get it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slim67 2,730 #15 Posted January 21, 2017 11 hours ago, Chris G said: Ya I have always had good luck with the Kohler's. But ya they are getting harder to find and when you do it seems ya got to choose over a arm or leg to get it. well if i find one ill need it myself. if i find two ill give you a call. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G 3,272 #16 Posted January 21, 2017 Hey I appreciate that. I'll keep ya in mind as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G 3,272 #17 Posted February 7, 2017 Officially started the rebuild on this 5hp Tecumseh to get this suburban back up and rolling! Had to broken head bolts. But besides that was a running motor. Just needs a little attention and a few mods to make it better suite my needs and should be good! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,405 #18 Posted February 7, 2017 On 1/6/2017 at 6:48 PM, SPINJIM said: I don't care for the oiled look because it attracts dust I thought of that too Jim but then @Shynon says use boiled linseed oil. He was right it seems to dry after awhile and dust and stuff will wash right off. Put an old bed sheet over it while it sets. Try it on a small part to see if you will like the finished patina as some don't. I personally loved it. What did you use Chris? You could do a HF 99 buck motor till your K91 ship comes in too Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G 3,272 #19 Posted February 7, 2017 I thought about the HF motor. But I already had the tech. And I actually sanded the tractor down with 500, 1000,1500 and then coated with Eastwood patina preserver, two coats. Then sanded with 2000 and hit with a real light coat of rustoleum gloss clear. Only did that cause it didn't have the exact pop I was looking for. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G 3,272 #20 Posted February 8, 2017 Well the broken off stud on the flywheel side got took out today and once removed a nice crack became very visible. So now to find a new block or most likely a new motor. And just keep other motor around for parts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G 3,272 #21 Posted February 16, 2017 Well I got a great deal and find for my new motor. $150 for a K91 can't go wrong. It came with parts to a leaf vacuum. But the motor is what I wanted it for! I'm gonna go through it and clean everything up and then I'll see how good of a deal I got. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slim67 2,730 #22 Posted February 16, 2017 nice find. im looking for one myself , i just need to look harder. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,029 #23 Posted February 16, 2017 On 2/7/2017 at 1:22 PM, WHX9 said: I thought of that too Jim but then @Shynon says use boiled linseed oil. Some safety considerations when using Linseed Oil. How To: Use Boiled Linseed Oil (Safely) By Scott Sidler • May 4, 2015 Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) is a common item in my shop and in a lot of woodworker’s shops. It is a great oil treatment for woods, leaving a smooth touch on the surface. It revitalizes old dried wood and gives it a new life. Copyright: / 123RF Stock Photo BLO is often mixed with other finishes and was once one of the main ingredients in most paints. There are still companies that make linseed oil paints like Allback if you’re interested. Boiled Linseed Oil is not actually “boiled” like the name suggests, rather it is chemically modified to encourage faster drying. Slow drying oils are a good thing, but regular linseed oil can take weeks or even months to fully cure in cold weather and that’s just too stinking long. Boiled Linseed Oil will dry in only a few days give or take depending on weather. As awesome as this product is for both wood and metal it has some dangers (specifically flammability) that need to be addressed in order to use it safely. Let’s talk about safety first. Boiled Linseed Oil Safety The hard truth is that Boiled Linseed Oil can spontaneously combust if stored or used improperly. “Why on earth would you use it then?” Well, gasoline is a lot more flammable than BLO and I don’t hear anyone calling their cars a death trap (except Corvair owners). Here’s what happens: BLO cures by a chemical reaction with the surrounding oxygen in the air not by evaporation like water based finishes. This reaction generates heat like most chemical reactions. The heat generated can be intense in certain circumstances and can lead to spontaneous combustion. Larger amounts of BLO create greater heat. Smaller quantities generate less heat. How to Avoid Fires Always store BLO in metal containers. You can pour it into plastic containers for temporary use, but for long term storage it should be in a metal container. Any rags soaked with BLO should be laid flat on a non-flammable surface away from flammable items until they are completely dry or they can be placed in a metal container with water. The most common source of BLO fires is from a wadded up rag that has been soaked in BLO. The rag is wadded up and thrown in the trash with wood dust, newspapers or other kindling. Since it is wadded up it generates more heat because there is no air to pass over it and cool it. It then heats up to the flash point of the surrounding materials and the fire starts. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites