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kpinnc

Pics of the Bronco 14's 3 point

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kpinnc

I started a new thread since the old one was getting kinda long. Sorry it took so long to get these up. Of course, these are just mock ups, and my welds leave a bit to be desired. Hopefully, a shot of paint will make this a little more pleasing to the eye. I'm sure some of you will find I used some old WH parts to make this up. It's done that way on purpose. I got plenty of old parts, and not much metal to work with.

I'm not using chains as lift links. My parts for them have not come in yet. Anyway, here it is so far:

muledrive026.jpg

Trying to preserve as much "toolbox" as possible. It's still got to be braced up, but it's basically gonna be similar dimensions to the factory toolbox- but made of 1/4 plate:

muledrive031.jpg

The lift arm pivots are made from 3/4 steel in bronze bushings. I'll double the thickness with a smaller piece of plate welded and drilled on the outside.

muledrive032.jpg

I'm using the lift cylinder from a "D" series tractor. The lower end of the cyliner rides on the lower hitch, but is supported by the hitch pin on the rear of the tranny with a 3/4 pin, just like any other WH hitch. Yeah, that's a punch in the mount hole. My pivot pin was too short, so I gotta get a new one. :D In this pic, the mounting bolts to the axles are missing, but you get the idea. The hitch connects much like the snow plow hitch, with the added strength of the drawbar pin mount as well:

muledrive030.jpg

The top link tabs rotate forward when the lift arms move up. This will effectively raise the rear of whichever implement is attached slightly higher than the front. Hopefully, it'll be enough to correct any ground clearance issues when implements are not engaged. That's one of the problems with a 3 point on a tractor with smaller wheels. When the implement is up, it can still hang the rear up on things when the tractor drives over a smaller obstacle and the nose pitches up. This should prevent that:

muledrive028.jpg

More will be added as this project progresses. Sorry for the dark and dirty shop...

Kevin

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Kelly

Very nice keep us posted on progress, It looks like a good set up. Kelly In MI.

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Greg B.

Thanks for the pics, Kevin. This project, with its abundant common sense, is inspiring.

Thanks,

Greg B.

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kpinnc

Thanks Greg, but some of the "common sense" is not mine to claim.

Things like the top link setup rotating forward to lift the rear of the implement higher- you will find something similar on most "other brands" (JD, etc...) for the same reason. A fixed top link mount is easier, but you've got to be able to lift the implement much higher than I can with this setup to get good ground clearance.

I'll claim the rest... :D

Kevin

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combatmp29r

It looks Good Kevin I'm sure you'll get alot of use out of it. Very nice design.

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Rollerman

Kevin I'm seriously impressed & in awe of your work! :(

I suspect it will be several years before I refine my creative talents like you. :D

Looking forward to raiding the inlaws scrap steel pile so I can play with the new welder....more inspired now. :P

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combatmp29r

Stephen, It wont be long you'll be buying off color ones so you can tear them apart for their steel and other useful parts. I'm shutting the door on the JD jokes here I'm talking about the MTD and AYP crap out there. :D

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kpinnc

Thanks for the compliment Stephen. My welds don't look so good, but it's been a while since I jumped on Pop's Lincoln. Nothing a grinder and a coat of paint can't cure. :D

I'm betting it won't take you long to figure out the welding stuff. It's a lot of fun once you get the hang if it.

Kevin

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T-Mo

Kevin,

Nice work. I'm also in awe of your talents and skills. :P

Joel,

It's okay, I can handle a few JD jokes. Maybe. :D

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Nick

Kevin,

That is some nice looking fab work on the hitch. :P After looking at it a few times starting to think I will have to put a 3pt on the list of things to do when it gets back above freezing.

Dont think I have ever seen a pivot at a top link before. Sure sounds like it should help keep the attachments up higher. How does the pivot work out when the hitch it is down, any problem with it tipping attachments back?

Maybe the Load Ranger with its 10" wheels needs a 3pt hitch now. :D

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kpinnc

Thanks for the compliment Nick. Given some of your work I've seen, that is a big compliment! :P

I wish I could say I had tested it already, but the weather here has been a little kruddy too. Truthfully, I PLAN to try and set the top link to the correct length so the implements will be level only when full down. I'm guessing that'll take a little getting used to, but I'll figure it out. The only time I could see a problem is if I find a turn plow to use. I guess I could really mess with the bite angle on one of those.

I actually got that top link idea from a JD 3 point setup. Many of the 300(?)s I've seen have the rotating top link.

Plus, I'm gonna make a few changes to the lift arm. Already found I don't like how it looks. :D I think I can set it up so it only has minimal movement forward as long as the lift arms are semi-level. Gonna have to look a little closer at it I guess, but I'll get it done soon.

After it warms back up a bit- Been kinda cold here for NC weather too!

Kevin

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Nick

Yea its a bit cold to start much right now. I think I can do something similar to your hitch on the Lawn Ranger. Just have to sit down and look at it a while. Guess at least I will have some time to start looking for 3 point parts for the project.

The only 3pt I have used much was on a steiner. They have two positions to mount the top link but no pivot. They did raise kind of high so that did help some. I loaded some pictures of the steiners 3 point hitch today. Also just put in a picture of the Blue Ridge Parkway in NC when it was still warm in back in October. :D

Nick in Ohio

hitch007.jpg

mountains063.jpg

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T-Mo

I seen a few of the JD 300 series 3 point hitches, but I never paid much attention to the top link. I was also over at a friend's house yesterday when I picked up the free weights. He had a JD 420 there with a 3 point hitch, he was using it to lift of the 54 blade. If anyone knows anything about JD attachments, the 54 inch blade is fully hydraulic and is often referred to as the 54, 4 way blade. It's heavy.

Nick,

Nice scenery there. :D

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kpinnc

Nick,

A 3 point on a Lawn Ranger? That would be pretty neat. Put it on a 32R/E or another early model, and you won't have to cut the fender!

Yeah, the Parkway is nice around that time of year. My wife gets carsick pretty easy, so it's been a while since I drove on it. You must travel quite a bit!

Kevin

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Nick

Kevin,

Not much original left on the Loader Ranger so not a big problem if I would need to cut the fender. Just have to rebuild the loader subframe to also tie into the 3pt. Hadnt thought about a 3pt until I saw yours. Should make it nice to mount an attachment then change back to the suitcase weights.

tires003.jpg

Also been to lake Lure NC area to pick up a mower deck. Another nice area.

rock003.jpg

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kpinnc

Made some changes to the lift arms/top link setup tonight. The previous arrangement of the top link tabs were too high, and drove too far into the fender when full up. If I had left them the way they were, the top link would have made contact with the bottom of the seat.

I cut the old tabs down and turned the lift arm assembly upside down. This solved the problem of the top link, but still rotates it forward at full up deflection. This is a "before and after" pic:

muledrive026.jpgmuledrive040.jpg

I still have to drill and weld the tabs in, and brace them. this moves the top link back about 4 inches.

muledrive039.jpg

Another benefit of turning the lift arm "assembly" over is that I now have MUCH more effective range out of the lift cylinder. The hitch will lift an implement quite a bit higher now. I don't think clearance will be an issue anymore:

muledrive041.jpg

Even at full up, I won't have to notch the rear fender as much as I had previously thought. Looking back, this is how I should've done it to begin with. :D

muledrive042.jpg

Slowly but surely, it's coming along. Hopefully I'll have something to test in a week or so!

And Nick, if you're gonna make all these trips to NC- we're gonna have to set up a swap meet! :P

Kevin

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Greg B.

Rock on, Kevin :D I'm following this closely. :P

Greg B.

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Rollerman

Kevin...Great update & pics. :D

You have deffinately earned your "Master fabricator" super hero cape. :P

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T-Mo

Kevin,

That 3 point is looking awesome. Nice, professional look to it. :D

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Rollerman

Yep the fabrication design are top notch. :D

Details like the bushing on the top link bracket for example show a lot of thought in the design.

Kevin where are you getting/makeing your center links? (to repalce the chains?)

Can't wait to see it all done & a full shot of the tractor with an implement hanging on your handy work.

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kpinnc

Thanks for the compliments guys. I guess it's not too bad considering all I have to work with is a porta-band saw, a grinder, and a stick welder!

Stephen, I'm using threaded heim joints and making the lower portion of the links.

I'll keep posting as this progresses. I'm itching to get it tested out!

Kevin

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T-Mo

Kevin,

All I can say is that it looks good and looks very professional. :D

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kpinnc

Got a little more done today. Going a little slower than I'd like, but getting there none the less.

I added tabs to the rear of the "toolbox" to mount the fender on. Welded nuts onto them, so the fender bolts thread right in. Also got the fender notching just about where I want it:

muledrive049.jpg

The fender tilts back, just as it should, with the hitch lowered.

muledrive051.jpg

Finished welding up the toolbox. Saved as much of it as I could- but keep in mind it's a structural member now. All 1/4 inch plate, and braced all up. Needs a good sandblasting, but I wanted to make sure it all fits well first.

muledrive050.jpg

Like I said, slowly but surely... :D

Kevin

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Greg B.

A very professional looking job, Kevin. I've found that when, for what ever reason, I'm forced to progress slowly, I use the weld eraser a lot less! :D

Greg B.

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kpinnc

Thanks Greg, and you are definately correct.

I've only been welding for a little while, and this project is teaching me quite a bit about it. Some of my welds look pretty good, and others look like who flung doo. :P

The hardest thing for me to work through/ around so far is the welds pulling things out of square, and getting distorted. If I've learned nothing else, I'm learning to check, re-check, and then check again.

Some of it is still a little crooked... :D

Good enough though, I hope!

Kevin

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