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Similar Content
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By BrianKoch
Looking for a good and flat cover plate for the k301 crankcase. My current one is warped causing oil to leak out.
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By Rick3478
For Sale NOS M12S Short Block, still in the original box. I bought it pre-emptively when Kohler was phasing out the Magnums. Thought I would have it on hand if one of mine needed it, or maybe I would find a tractor with a busted rod for cheap. Neither of those things happened, the darn things just keep running.
Part number 77 522 35, probably built in late '05, it's the combination replacement kit Kohler made to fit WheelHorse or Gravely, machined to bolt directly into the Gravely transaxle, but also has spacers to mount WheelHorse PTO clutch/brake. Also has a bunch of gaskets and seals packed with it, probably all you need to install it.
And it's heavy, so it's not practical for me to ship. Buyer arrange to pick up near Elida OH, I can lift it about knee high to help load.
Asking $800 or might consider trade for a good center mount grader blade.
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By mcfarmall
Tractor features Kohler 16hp cast iron engine, gently used 42" deck, concrete wheel weights, tire chains, new Chinesium carburetor, fuel lines and filter, new air filter, 2 new fwd/rev cams. A starter, some new gaskets, and miscellaneous parts. New drive belt and all the belt idler assemblies. Engine runs but smokes. Great restoration candidate or a spare engine for you pullers out there. Call, text or email for a private showing. No offers considered unless made in person. Buyer responsible for transportation. Many more pictures to send to interested persons.
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By Tenday
Experts - help please. I’m new to Wheel Horse Tractor life!
So - I’ve pulled out an inherited tractor and have decided to resurrect her. Unfortunately, no spark :/
I’m looking for help on diagnosing no spark.
model - 417-8
engine - Kohler KT17
Done thus far: (aware that some have no implication on spark.)
- new ignition switch
- new battery
- new starter
- new ignition coil and wires w/ plugs
- new condenser
- new points
- new starter solenoid
- bypassed all switches except oil and seat.
notes:
idiot lights removed.
All fuses tested with Ohms as well as visual inspection ..
coil tested w/ ohms as well
all switches bypassed except:
-oil switch ( don’t think it has any implications other than a visual indication for idiot lights. )
-seat switch
ran a pos from batt direct to pos of coil - nothing; no spark.
Electric is as follows:
- Starter switch wired to solenoid
- - solenoid to starter
- - solenoid to batt
- one wire from starter switch goes to engine ( I think this is for batt charge / flywheel)
- I have two yellow wires, which are married up, that go to engine which have constant power; They power coil. Comes from switch and seat.
Help - what the heck am I missing ?
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