Old Gem Found..Need Info about it

[Kavint76 56]

I found this old wheel horse in a old barn..it's a 1277 with a K301 engine...I think its a 1967..I would appreciate any info that anyone could give me about it. I'm new to this, but very excited to learn more. The engine looks clean inside but i have no spark..I dont think it will be hard to figure out, i hope..Thanks in advance! 

[Retired Wrencher 4,875]

Kavint76      Look under the dash it will tell  you a T # should read T-1277 OK. I think with a good cleaning to see where you are at maybe a battery you can find out what shape it is in. If you do not care about the patina after cleaning just  apply some Marvel Mystery oil let it sit for a few hours or a day on it this will kept it from rusting. I think this will be a good start. Enjoy the project.

Edited December 18, 2016 by T1257 RETIRED WRENCHER.

[Racinbob 10,272]

Here's the manual for it.

The mule drive on the front is an upgrade to the later style allowing you to use the more modern decks. Per chance are you across the big pond?

 

[SylvanLakeWH 24,094]

[953 nut 51,559]

       Great barn find!     

[Tankman 3,515]

10 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

       Great barn find!     

 Great Horse! Certainly deserving efforts to put this Stallion back in service. Nice project!

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

Nice looking Horse.Keep it away from that Craftsman..........wouldn't want them to mate.Have fun with your new toy and welcome to the best forum on the net.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

 

Nice save.  If you're mechanically inclined, fixing the no spark issue isn't hard at all.

[Sarge 3,462]

Nice find and my favorite , first model here . You have 1 thing going for you already - it has it's original 2-spoke steering wheel which is pretty rare , hope it's in one piece and not cracked badly . Eastwood's Diamond clear will shine it up after a light Scotch Brite pad cleaning , don't use a lot of pressure on the pad and take your time . The K301 is a tough engine , as others said let it soak for a few days to avoid damage to the cylinder and rings . Too bad it doesn't have the hydro lift and hopefully the Sundstrand pump is in good shape . Clean up the tank and replace the fuel lines , rebuild the carb and order up a kit for the fuel pump , I'll bet it will run once again . I've had two of the 1277's , love that long 7-slot hood since it has a great vintage look . Decal Wizard has the wood grain decals and the correct dash kit for it so if you want to do a restore it's an option - I'd get a set either way . Check the filter on the hydro and make certain it's a WH/Toro filter and not some engine oil filter - it must be the correct hydraulic filter or will damage the pump .

 

Too bad it's missing the original black & white seat . Look at the manual and it's pictures and you'll find any changes that have been made . Common to have to free up the direction control friction shaft for the trans , it's in the boxed area ahead of the seat and a common issue if stored outside in the weather . Don't force the direction handle and use the manual to disassemble the direction mechanism and clean it up . Not hard at all once you get into one if you're mechanically inclined and the parts drawing will show how it's put together .

 

No spark is pretty easy , probably just the points or maybe a bad coil and condenser . The starter generator is a tough old bugger and they rarely fail but the relay contacts in the Delco regulator as susceptible to corrosion . Find a correct points file - some automotive or hardware stores carry the nice small Nicholson one and they aren't expensive . You have to give the silver contacts a polish and a good auto electric shop can reset the contacts to the correct tension so it charges the battery to the correct voltage . Hopefully it still has the original cigarette lighter and it's not rusted into a pile ...but a container of kerosene and a week's soaking will do wonders , then polish it with chrome cleaner like Mother's or Turtle Wax after cleaning the kero out with brake cleaner . The key switch is a battery ignition type and made by Cole Hersee , don't lose that switch and the wiring is pretty simple .

 

Just fyi - there is a guy on a WH buy/sell/trade group on Facebook that is parting out a 1277 despite it being a very complete tractor . I almost went after it but it's a bit too far and I'm out of room . Fairly clean old girl and would be a great source for donor parts .

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/WHGTP/permalink/1247058018683746/?sale_post_id=1247058018683746

 

You can do a simple search on Google , Facebook and such Wheel Horse 1277 , there are not many of this model left as it was only 1yr model , 1967. @perry had one of the best original examples I've seen and I used his photos (Thanks , Perry) for repairing mine and making it correct .

 

Here's how mine sits right now , awaiting a new transmission mounting plate repair - I've worked this poor thing very hard for over 15yrs now...finally taking it's toll .

 

 

 

Perry's old 1277 , all original - except that seat ...

 

 

 

This is the other I had , sold earlier this year to a fella on here from the Chicago area - never should have let it go but I'm totally out of room here .

 

 

 

Sarge

 

 

[KC9KAS 4,741]

@Kavint76   And thank you for the photos!

 

You will love Red Square and receive all the knowledge necessary to get you 1277 up and running!

[TIGman 2,006]

to 

Great find !! I like 

Edited December 18, 2016 by TIGman

[GlenPettit 1,714]

Nice looking 'newer' 42" rear-discharge mowing deck, looks in great shape.

[RandyLittrell 3,827]

Here is my 1277, got it last year just for the loader and really like it. 

 

 

 

 

 

I have beat on it pretty hard and its taken it all. I think you will like yours too! 

 

 

 

Randy

[JackC 616]

In my opinion that model with that hood is a great looking classic Wheel Horse. 1965 was the first year of the automatic transmission. 1966 was the first year of the attractive long wood grain decals on the side of the hood. That tractor you found has a conversion unit on the front to use the newer mowing decks. The 42 inch rear discharge deck is one of my favorites. I wanted to add one of those to my collection and here is a 1076 that I found a few hours away. It came with a non original but practical boat seat and a snow blower. I have since gotten it running, found a great wheel horse seat from the same era from T1257 Retired Wrencher, purchased a new set of decals from redo your hose, and I found the unit to add the newer tachmatic to the front. The first thing I did was rub it down with WD40.  I like the patine of weathered finish and may leave it that way with new decals.

 

 

 

[elliot ness 1,916]

Welcome to red Square.

[Kavint76 56]

Thnx everyone I can't wait to get her running I appreciate are the feedback n info on it I'll update as I go.The points look good I'm gana try the coil first n c if that works.

[ClassicTractorProfessor 5,256]

 I think you will love the 1277, was my first  tractor and also my favorite, in the process of gathering parts to build a new engine for mine since it threw a rod and grenaded the block this past summer, so she just sits in the back of the shed now. Can't wait to get her up and running again, very tough machine and the hydro was super handy for mowing. Good luck with yours, you are definitely in the right place for help if you need it

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

Kavinta,                    

 

Best of luck with your find.

 

Glenn

[Kavint76 56]

Thnx everyone I can't wait to get her running I appreciate are the feedback n info on it I'll update as I go.The points look good I'm gana try the coil first n c if that works. I've tried a different coil n still no spark can someone send me detailed pics of the wiring. The points look new so I'm not quite sure what is the problem thanks in advance. 

[Kavint76 56]

I do love this site its awesome. I forgot to mention the motor n starter turn over fine just no spark. I don't know we're to look next .

Sarge the steering wheel has no cracks just some odd little pits n thnx to u n all who replied 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,488]

There is a wiring diagram in the operator manual

You have battery ignition so easy to check the points. Using a voltmeter or test light with the engine cranking see if you have constant voltage at the coil (+). Now move the tester to the coil (-). When the points are closed you should have 0 voltage. When the points are open you should have battery voltage just like the coil (+). So the reading should change once for every 2 turns of the crankshaft. This will tell you if the points are making a clean electrical contact when closed.

My guess is you will have steady voltage at the coil (-). Using crocus cloth or a point file polish the oxidation off both the point contact surfaces. Drag a strip of clean white paper through the closed points a few times until the paper comes out clean. That should give you spark at the plug.

 

Garry

[Sarge 3,462]

The components on that old engine are quite simple , just think 50's-60's era and it's pretty basic mechanical 101 stuff . Don't lay on that starter/gen for a long time - it can heat up the armature and crack the ends of the windings . Follow the static engine timing setup listed above - it's not hard and well worth the time as it will help the engine run at it's optimal setting for easy cold/hot starts and prevent detonation .

I'd dump whatever oil is in it and use Kohler's engine oil in either SAE30w or 10w-30 depending upon temperature .

 

Sarge

[Kavint76 56]

Thnx sarge I ran the wire from + on battery to + on coil n it fired up. on the 3 point switch 1 has power all the time the other1 has power when the switch is on the 3rd one has no power should the 3rd one have power when switch is on or off or not at all I think the switch is bad.

[953 nut 51,559]

Your ignition switch should have 12 volts on the "B" terminal (big wire) all the time, the "I" terminal (small wire) in the run and start positions and on the "S" terminal (big wire) only in start.

[Sarge 3,462]

@953 nut is correct - it's a basic battery ignition system , just needs power to feed the coil in the run position and the start terminal (momentary , spring loaded) goes to the start terminal on the voltage regulator for the starter generator . The wiring diagram is simple and in the manual . Those old Cole-Hersee switches are designed to handle full current flow from the battery , be very careful with those wires behind that fuel tank - if you ground one against the tank it will try to burn through the tin and could cause a serious fire . Wouldn't be hard to set up a relay for the battery power to get all the high current away from the tank and off that key switch - the same way newer tractors are wired .

 

Sarge