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blake616

416-8 electrical problems

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blake616

I am in need of some help.  I have a 1988 416-8 (31-16K804) with a Kohler M16 engine that over the past few months has been acting funny.  Back in July or August, I was mowing in the evening and randomly the lights went out.  I stopped mowing and flipped the light switch 2 or 3 times and they came back on.  Over the course of the last few months I have had several issues starting the tractor.  When I turn the key switch over, I was getting nothing.  The tractor wouldn't turn over, nothing.  It would randomly start, maybe once every 50-60 times I turned the key over.  I was told it was the ignition switch so I change that out back in September or October and the tractor seemed to be functioning just fine since.  While plowing after our snowstorm this past weekend, I went out to start the tractor and noticed I was having the same problem.  Tractor turned over but didn't fire, I turned the key switch off, then back on and had nothing.  I tried 3-4 more times and finally the the tractor started.  I had turned the lights on because it was dark outside and after 30-40 secs, the lights went out but the tractor was running fine.  I assumed if I shut the tractor off, I wouldn't get it restarted so I finished up my plowing as best I could in the dark.  I shut the tractor off and sure enough, the tractor won't start.  I have tried 40 or 50 times and I get nothing.  It seems as though I have some type of short but I have no idea where to start.  Is there a connection between the lights and the ignition switch?  Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated. 

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gwest_ca

Here are some detailed wiring diagrams you can download. Each circuit has it's own diagram so easier to follow. With a test light or voltmeter you can follow a circuit from the battery to see where the fault is. You should have at least 12 volts in any circuit that is turned on.

A test light will be fairly bright on 12 volts and anything less will dim the light accordingly. The degree of brightness takes some getting used to but is effective.

Don't forget the wires are only one half of a circuit. The grounds through the chassis metal back to the battery (-) are just as important for each circuit.

For those following along this model uses the Kohler M16 engine with magneto ignition.

 

A warning - do not allow any battery voltage into the ignition wire from the engine. The ignition is self powered and the ignition wire is simply grounded to the chassis to shut the engine off. This is accomplished by the ignition switch or the seat switch if the pto is applied (engaged) and the operator leaves the seat.

At least that is how it is supposed to work.

Let us know what you find and many can help you along.

 

Garry

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953 nut

For any electrical problem the first thing you need to do is clean and tighten ALL connections including grounds. A little bit of corrosion or lack of tightening can reduce you voltage substantially. 

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cleat

If changing the switch helped and clicking it eventually gets it to go I would first clean the connector going to the switch itself.

 

One of my 520's had an intermittent power problem and I had already taken out the harness and completely cleaned it (so I thought) including replacing the engine connector.

 

Turns out that I could make the machine act up or run better by simply wiggling the connector to the ignition switch. Ignition switch was new.

 

Cleaned it up more even though it looked fine and machine has ran fine ever since.

 

I guess from now on I will replace the ignition switch connector contacts when I redo a harness.

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Sarge

There is a cleaner called Deoxit that will clean those connectors - it's not widely known by any other trade besides the electronics folks but it works excellent . Be prepared for the price and remember it doesn't take very much at all -

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU

Sarge

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JERSEYHAWG /  Glenn

have you also checked your seat safety switch?  and agree with above posts.

 

Glenn

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ohiofarmer

I had problems like that with a 416 or maybe the 520 and there was a little fuse block that loved to gather dust and crud. Add battery fumes to that as it lives under the battery. Blow it out and use some penetrating oil and wiggle the fuses around that may just fix things New fuses would not hurt either.. There is also a safety switch around the blade engage thingy that is also subject to corrosion. I just wired mine together when it puked.  Funny thing is, this tractor was always kept inside

 

It is this type, but has more than one fuse in it.http://www.jpcycles.com/product/381-794

Edited by ohiofarmer

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blake616

Thanks everyone for responding, sorry for the slow response to this.  I have narrowed the electrical problem down to the the battery terminal of the ignition connector.  It appears that someone has attempted a re-wire of this tractor and had no idea what they were doing.  Instead of replacing the snap terminals in the connector, they forced the wire into the terminal and now that wire is fragile brittle.  I am buying a whole new 5-terminal connector and terminals.  I do have a question though on part numbers.  I was able to find the similar 5-terminal connector with an Oregon Wire part number of 33-350 and terminals with an Oregon Wire part number of 33-351.  First of all, will these work and second, does anyone have a part number for a terminal that can be crimped onto 2 wires?  In looking at my current connector, there are at least 2 of the 5 terminals that have 2 wires inserted into the 5-terminal connector.  Any help there would be great and then I can start by installing a whole new connector.

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