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Could you email me your pics and I could try saving them to file and then post them here in the thread for you, until you can get your end figured out?

sbk@indy.rr.com

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My tractor has the battery under the hood and under the seat is just transmission and a bunch if hydraulic lines if I reach up under fender on left side I can feel what seems to be a part of transmitted that sticks out like a finger with what seems to feel like a flat headed screw with a straight screwdriver slot in it.I do know you can push it now its not easy but it can be pushed in what ever position the valve is in currently.after it warms up outside I will go out and use all this great information all of you have given me and also find the serial # and mod.# tag and get back with you all thank you all.

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I uploaded pics.don't know if you can tell anything from them but I can't find serial # and mod # tag but its to cold.I will have to wait until it warms up.I don't have a garage to put it in.thanks.20161210_145458.jpg

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OK. Now we know a little more about your GT 14.

The pics help a lot to understand what your are fighting.

It has a 3-point hitch which necessitates that bar running thru the frame which operates the lift arms on the hitch.

That does clog things up a bit more.

Try loosening and sliding the seat mount bracket as far forward as you can. You might even try removing it.

That may gain you some needed operating room.

My GT 14 doesn't have a 3 point hitch, so I don't have anything in the way thru the middle of the frame like you do.

Try operating the hitch if the tractor will run and see if you can gain more clearance and work room in either and up or down position.

 

There a few guys on here with 3-point hitches on their GT 14s.

My guess is they'll chip in here shortly.

 

Glad you finally got the pic thing sorted out.

2tu.gif

p.s. I see you have one of those super valuable double pulleys on the right side which can run a tiller.

Got a tiller that came with the tractor?

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Yeah me to had to use my phone.the tablet wouldn't do it.the lift works on it.but it will go forwards but you have to give it quite a bit of throttle.but it will not back up.I am going to drain the fluid and change filter.and then try and get to the tow valve and hopefully that fixes it.but I appreciate all of you guys help.thanks

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Yes I have 2 tillers with it.Yeah me to had to use my phone.the tablet wouldn't do it.the lift works on it.but it will go forwards but you have to give it quite a bit of throttle.but it will not back up.I am going to drain the fluid and change filter.and then try and get to the tow valve and hopefully that fixes it.but I appreciate all of you guys help.thanks

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Bubba,

I talked about "VIN" tag earlier.

What I was referring to then was the tag on the Sundstrand tranny, which is turned sideways, when you look at it from the rear of the machine. Review my pics.

There is a second "VIN" tag which Wheel Horse attached to every tractor they ever made.

The Wheel Horse VIN tag, when you know the model codes, tells you everything about what it is and when it was made.

 

Your GT 14 appears to have a solid cast front "grill".

If so, it is likely a first year model (1969), which is 1-1441, on the VIN tag.

I have 'a '69 model.

My VIN tag is on the right side, as you sit in the operator's seat, under the 'dashboard', riveted to the hood stand.

There are VIN tag location variations from model to model, but if you have a '69 solid cast grill GT 14, I can almost guarantee that's where your tag is.

It should take less than a minute to find, even with a flashlight in the dark.

 

Here's an example of at GT 14 Wheel Horse "VIN" tag:

00H0H_i9glmUjlu0r_600x450 a.jpg

This tag indicates this is a 1970 model GT 14:  1-7452

See the listing below of model years and model numbers of GT 14s, to be able to identify yours.

 

Look at the VIN tag on the hood stand under the dash....generally the right side.

GT 14 Model #'s and year:


1-7441    1969
____________
1-7451    1970
1-7452    1970
1-7453    1970

____________
1-0500    1971
1-0501    1971
____________
1-0502    1972
1-0503    1972
____________
1-0502    1973

 

Once you see where the W.H. VIN tag is, we'll know what you have.

You will too!

Take a pic to celebrate!!!   camera.gif

wavetowel2.gif

 

I hope this is helpful to you.

 

Regards,

Steve

 

p.s. I guarantee you its a lot colder here in Indiana, than in OKC.

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?CityName=Gas+City&state=IN&site=IWX&lat=40.4892&lon=-85.6077#.WEyHpn001P_

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Richard,

Not meaning to be purposely argumentative or condescending, but the tow valve is actually a bit forward of your rectangle.

It's not inline in any close left/right lineal proximity to the filler tube.

It's forward of that position.

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Yes I have 2 tillers with it.Yeah me to had to use my phone.the tablet wouldn't do it.the lift works on it.but it will go forwards but you have to give it quite a bit of throttle.but it will not back up.I am going to drain the fluid and change filter.and then try and get to the tow valve and hopefully that fixes it.but I appreciate all of you guys help.thanks

Yes its forward and down lower its hard to get too.

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Being the old model , his tow valve is likely in the same spot as my old 1277 and it is a flat screwdriver slot that faces forward off the front edge of the hydraulic motor block . With those fenders and no tilting seat pan it would be pretty tough to get to that valve .

 

I'd recommend changing the oil and make certain to use the proper hydraulic filter - that Fram that is on there may be just a car oil filter which will pass far too much dirt .

 

Sarge

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Sarge! You are exactly right that is where its located,& it is a flat head screw.i purchased the correct filter and new type a tyranny fluid.I am hoping that will correct my problem.the fluid will not even dump out of it.I am going to refill with fluid later and try it.I think I will have to remove part of fender to access tow valve.I am also going to try and locate model take so I can determine year of manufacture.thanks for your help.

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Sarge! You are exactly right that is where its located,& it is a flat head screw.i purchased the correct filter and new type a tyranny fluid.I am hoping that will correct my problem.the fluid will not even dump out of it.I am going to refill with fluid later and try it.I think I will have to remove part of fender to access tow valve.I am also going to try and locate model take so I can determine year of manufacture.thanks for your help.P.S. does the tow valve screw head face up & down to drive or sideways to drive.THANKS.

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On the older models I believe it's just a needle valve like on a hydraulic jack - just open it about 1 turn to push or close it snug to let the system pressurize .

Look very closely at the oil that is in that hydro - if it's red it's Dexron transmission fluid . If it's any other color other than red or brown it's suppose to be 10w30 motor oil . Dexron has a very distinct odor to it - easiest way to figure out what is in there . It wouldn't surprise me if someone put straight 30w in it - that would cause a lot of issues for sure . Might want to try a heat lamp or something to heat up the trans housing to drain it . Buy some cheap replacement oil in gallons and change it several times along with the filter - might be able to save that pump yet...

Sarge

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Look at davoman1966 pic again!

It shows exactly what the tow valve looks like.

 

217 (35).JPG

Edited by ztnoo

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Hi Sarge it had red trans fluid in it, it drained out of tyranny good but the filter is real heavy and no fluid will hardly drain from it feels like its still half full.it was supposed to have ran and pulled real good when it was parked.the guy bought it for the transmission for another one he had then he came down ill.so it sat for years.hopefully this will fix it.thanks for your help.

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We still need to know the Model # on the tranny VIN tag to know what you have..........

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20 hours ago, Bubba KC jr said:

the lift works on it

:woohoo:   The lift works well so the pump is good!    

 

9 hours ago, Bubba KC jr said:

I think I will have to remove part of fender to access tow valve.

First try a flat head screwdriver adapter for a socket set with extensions and a ratchet; may be able to tighten it with that fender in place.

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Hi Sarge it had red trans fluid in it, it drained out of tyranny good but the filter is real heavy and no fluid will hardly drain from it feels like its still half full.it was supposed to have ran and pulled real good when it was parked.the guy bought it for the transmission for another one he had then he came down ill.so it sat for years.hopefully this will fix it.thanks for your help.

Changed the filter and fluid and valve is tight still no reverse only forward.is it pump or transmission.

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9 hours ago, Bubba KC jr said:

valve is tight still no reverse only forward.is it pump or transmission

Is it moving forward with greater power than it had prior to fluid change and tightening the push valve? As @new2horses said, could be the linkage or it may be the acceleration valve springs. Check the linkage first, be sure it is clean and not binding.

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You need to find that tag - it's in there somewhere .  I'd highly suggest downloading the Sundstrand manual and start reading , most likely the pump is pretty weak and the acceleration valve for reverse is plugged or stuck . They can be cleaned but you'll need that manual for it . The direction control linkage is a wear item and can cause the same issue if it's not moving that valve like it should - that valve doesn't move very far in reverse so it's critical it works correctly .

Sarge

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11 minutes ago, Sarge said:

You need to find that tag - it's in there somewhere

 

Thank you reinforcing what I stated long ago in this thread.

Until we know the model for sure, we're all kind of grasping at straws here.....

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If it's a '69 , he won't have that roll pin type valve - instead , it will have the screwdriver type that faces the front on the upper outside corner area of the hydro motor block . It's basically the same diff as what's in my old 1277 that used the 2-pin automotive type differential , or at least the hydro motor section anyway .

Sarge

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I have a '69, 1-7441, and my tow valve is exactly as pictured in the photo from and in the manual.

Edited by ztnoo

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Sarge is correct it has the flat head screw type facing front of the tractor.it is screwed in.and with new fluid and correct filter it still only moves forward.but not with greatness, I doubt it would pull the blade in down position with a load on it.But it still will not go in reverse.Dont know what would cause this,the lift works good.would the problem be the transmission or the pump.I don't know much about these wheel Horse tractors but I would think that the lift would not work well if it was the pump.but I am going to work on it next spring.leave it alone until then.but I truly appreciate all your help.Have a merry Christmas and a Happy new year.ps.i will post a pic of ID tag later.

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