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I have a wheel horse GT automatic, it has been sitting for a few years,it will not hardly pull in forward gear.but will not back up at all.i am going to try and change out the fluid and filter but I don't know where the drain plug is located.if anyone can help with my transmission problems and location of drain plug I would greatly appreciate it.thank you.

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There should be a HEX PLUG on the bottom, toward the rear.  Be sure to blow all the dirt and crud out of it.

What you describe...no power in either direction...is typical of a worn-out hydro pump.  It should be model 90-2062 and I have rebuilt a few of these over the years.  It is very likely that the internal BRASS surfaces are scarred / scratched leading to a loss of pressure and that causes lack of power.  If you are at all a wrench-head, this isn't so difficult an undertaking, but take a lot of patience and time to get it right.  Here is a pic of what MAY be the problem, although other issues may be suspect as well. 

NOTE.... you'll probably find other scarred parts in the guts... and you should replace the 3 rubber seals in the pump too.

218 (20).JPG

218 (31)a.jpg

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Thanks DaveOman 1966! I appreciate your response after it warms up outside I will try your suggestions.thanks again

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1 hour ago, Bubba KC jr said:

been sitting for a few years,it will not hardly pull in forward gear.but will not back up at all.i am going to try and change out the fluid and filter

:WRS:    Do you know any of the history on the :wh:? Did the transmission work when it was put up for storage?

The filter you will need is a NAPA 1410 and the oil (if it is RED) will be Dextron ATF, otherwise it will use 10 W 30.

Will the hydraulic lift lift and lower well; if it is strong then the pump may not be the problem. Another potential cause if the pump is good would be the acceleration valve springs. Let us know after the fluid change how it is doing and what you find.

Take a look at the drive belt going from the engine to the Hydro pump; if it is not able to be tightened or is deteriorated that could be the problem. 

This manual should be helpful.

1-7441.pdf

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Is the drive belt broke? And is there tension on the drive belt, tensioner may have broken spring and or bad bearing.

:text-welcomeconfetti::rs:

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Thanks for your comment but I put a new belt on it and pensioner and spring are good.I am going to change filter and fluid to see if that will fix it.

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1.  Check the fluid level in the tranny to gauge if it is full or not. If not, that could be contributing to your problem.

2.  Another thing to check is to see if the tow valve on the top left hand side of the tranny is open or closed. It needs to be closed to work properly.

3.  Make sure the "parking brake" lever is in the down position. It has an idler pulley which provides tension to the engine to tranny drive belt. If not down, the belt will not be tensioned properly resulting in inadequate operation.

4.  The drain plug is on the bottom of the tranny, very close the the rear of the casing. It is a pipe plug threaded part. Measure careful the volume removed, AND note the appearance of the fluid. If reddish, it is Type A automatic transmission fluid. If brown, it is oil. You should be able to smell the difference as well as noting its color appearance. Replace with the same type of fluid that came out. DO NOT MIX TRANNY FLUIDS!

5.  Change the filter at the same time as you drain the case. Add any remaining volume to what is removed from the tranny case.

6.  Total fluid volume to replace is 1 gallon. If the volume you drained is substantially less than 1 gallon, this could also be contributing to your erratic transmission performance. I usually give everything at least a couple of hours to completely drain before reinstalling the drain plug and new filter.

7.  Make sure you have the proper drive belt (in total length) installed between the engine pulley and the transmission drive pulley. A too long or loose belt will result in erratic tranny performance.

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Thanks for all your answers as soon as the weather gets out of the teens I am going to get back to it.mine has just a screw it feels like for the tow valve,which way should it be facing the straight head screw up and down or towards the front and back of tractor to engage the drive on transmission.it is rather hard to see.i can only feel it.i think I am going to have to remove some parts of the fender to get to it.any suggestions on this.thanks for all the input.

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If you are going to change fluid and filter, I would suggest getting the tractor inside where it can be warmed up for several hours before changing tranny fluid. It will flow much better if warm and drain more completely.

I also elevate the front of my GT 14 slightly when I change fluid to insure as complete emptying as possible of the transmission since the drain is in the very rear and bottom of the case. I also open the filler plug on top to vent the system.

 

Here's some Sundstrand identifier locations:

Stundstrand indentifying locations a.jpg

 

Close up of tow valve. Lefty loosey, righty tighty.

IMG_0492.JPG

 

Here's the Sundstrand VIN tag identifying the model. To my understanding, the 90-2062 was only used on the GT 14.

IMG_0491 GT 14 only 90-2062 steve's tranny.JPG

 

Pic with proper transmission filters to use. Its very important to use a proper transmission filter when replacing because of the micron filtering abilities of these filters, as opposed to an engine oil filter.

IMG_0551.JPG

 

 

 

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Found a pic of the tow valve in the 1-1441 manual. 1-7441.pdf

It should help you locate the tow valve.

I have increased the original size without much degradation of the original picture quality.

GT 14 tow valve a.jpg

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3 hours ago, ztnoo said:

1.  Check the fluid level in the tranny to gauge if it is full or not. If not, that could be contributing to your problem.

2.  Another thing to check is to see if the tow valve on the top left hand side of the tranny is open or closed. It needs to be closed to work properly.

3.  Make sure the "parking brake" lever is in the down position. It has an idler pulley which provides tension to the engine to tranny drive belt. If not down, the belt will not be tensioned properly resulting in inadequate operation.

4.  The drain plug is on the bottom of the tranny, very close the the rear of the casing. It is a pipe plug threaded part. Measure careful the volume removed, AND note the appearance of the fluid. If reddish, it is Type A automatic transmission fluid. If brown, it is oil. You should be able to smell the difference as well as noting its color appearance. Replace with the same type of fluid that came out. DO NOT MIX TRANNY FLUIDS!

5.  Change the filter at the same time as you drain the case. Add any remaining volume to what is removed from the tranny case.

6.  Total fluid volume to replace is 1 gallon. If the volume you drained is substantially less than 1 gallon, this could also be contributing to your erratic transmission performance. I usually give everything at least a couple of hours to completely drain before reinstalling the drain plug and new filter.

7.  Make sure you have the proper drive belt (in total length) installed between the engine pulley and the transmission drive pulley. A too long or loose belt will result in erratic tranny performance.

 

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Thanks for all your pictures and comments I appreciate it.i am going to wait until it warms up.it may be a few days.i will post the results.

My battery is under the hood.and my tow valve is on the right side towards the front of transmission facing front of tractor I can only feel it not see it.

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The tow valve on a GT 14, if you have the original and standard Sundstrand hydro 90-2062, is on the left side. Check the model number on the Sundstrand VIN tag, viewed from the rear of the tractor.

If you are sitting on the seat facing forward, the tow valve will be literally under your left butt cheek.

Of course you have to lift the seat to see it, but I assure you it is on the left side if you are facing forward like you are going to operate the tractor.

Guaranteed.

You may need to slide the seat forward as far as it will go to see the tow valve.

 

Have another look at my pic and your own tractor.

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Sorry my mistake it is on the left side but it faces towards the front of tractor.i can't see it but can only feel it.so I think I have to take a part of fender off.do I need to tighten it to drive or loosen it to drive tractor.i apologize again.thanks for input

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22 minutes ago, Bubba KC jr said:

Sorry my mistake it is on the left side but it faces towards the front of tractor.i can't see it but can only feel it.so I think I have to take a part of fender off.do I need to tighten it to drive or loosen it to drive tractor.i apologize again.thanks for input

There is a roll pin stuck though the top of the tow valve stem.  Turn it so it faces the rear to push the tractor..Turn it toward the front to drive.  This is ported valve you can turn it all day long the only thing that matters is which way the long end of the roll pin is pointing.  There should be a sticker like in the manual picture above

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You shouldn't have to remove the fender. Possibly the seat, and the maybe apparatus that locks the seat in a fore/aft position to get to the tow valve, but you shouldn't need to remove the fender.

I have never had to do that.

The valve may be really stuck in whatever position it is now in, so it may take some real elbow grease and penetrant to free it up. It may have never been turned since it left the factory. If its a '69, 1-1441 model, that means almost 48 years at this point. That's a long time for any valve not to have been turned, one way or another.

 

Screwing the valve to the open position (tow) should let you push the tractor around, although at almost 900 lbs. "wet" with fuel, oil, and tranny fluid, it's still work. We're essential talking about roughly half a turn.

Screwing the valve to the closed position (drive) will allow the tranny to operate normally and it will be almost impossible to roll the tractor due to hydraulic resistance and pressure in the system.

Edited by ztnoo
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Here is an enlargement of the decal that should be next to the tow valve showing the positions.

GT.png

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White oval:  Directions for orientation of the tow valve to either drive or tow.

Yellow oval:  Tow valve (shown in tow position).

 

GT 14 tow valve ab.jpg

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My tractor has the battery under the hood and under the seat is just transmission and a bunch if hydraulic lines if I reach up under fender on left side I can feel what seems to be a part of transmitted that sticks out like a finger with what seems to feel like a flat headed screw with a straight screwdriver slot in it.I do know you can push it now its not easy but it can be pushed in what ever position the valve is in currently.after it warms up outside I will go out and use all this great information all of you have given me and also find the serial # and mod.# tag and get back with you all thank you all.

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4 hours ago, Bubba KC jr said:

serial # and mod.# tag

Also,    :wwp:

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Here is a pic of the PUSH / TOW Valve.  If you cannot turn the 'roll pin' handle, just put an open-end wrench and break loose the HEX END plug.  Doing this will open the valve and allow you to roll the tractor.  Once indoors, take the HEX all the way out and free-up the valve.   

217 (35).JPG

220 026.JPG

220 030.JPG

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You don't say if you are trying to post pics from a PC or laptop, or a smartphone.

Try reading these threads below and maybe things will begin to make a little more sense to you.

 

 

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I took some pics with my tablet and when I click on the choose files it does not give me the option to go to my documents or images.my tractor does not have the tow valve like in your pics it has the one that sticks out like a finger and has a flat head screw facing the front of tractor.behind left fender.i will have to use a short screw driver or take some of fender off.thanks 

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