What Were The WH Engineers Thinking???

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

Just started sorting out the wiring on my recently purchased D-200.Looks like I'll be rewiring most of it.Got a new ignition switch pigtail on it's way.Previous owner re-located the starter solenoid on the engine air shroud.Gonna mount it back on the frame.I can see where it should be mounted,but so far,can't get my hands in there to bolt it down.Quit that project for now and moved on to repair the wiring from the engine to the rectifier.Good Lord........that rectifier is worse to get to than the solenoid.So those engineers way back when,must have went on to teach the next generation of automotive engineers.

[pacer 3,159]

I feel your pain! couple years ago I was having starting/wiring issues on my 180 and several times I had to go in and "have a talk" with that ridiculously mounted solenoid and rectifier -- sheesh!

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

You got to remember that when the D Series came out, WH was owned by AMC.  And you know how complicated wiring in a car can be, even back in the 70s, as they were just starting to get a bit more complicated than they were before.

[pfrederi 17,129]

The D series in general is much harder to work on that the C series.  Pulling the hydro pump is an exercise in frustration...and if you have a Rear PTO and/or FEL it is even worse.

[pacer 3,159]

39 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

 if you have a Rear PTO and/or FEL it is even worse.

 

So true -- my 180 has the PTO set-up and I recently needed to rebuild my Ross steering box, you guessed it - the PTO shaft had to come out in order to get to the Ross steering. Both of these are incredibly hard to work with!

 

PS: I left the PTO shaft off, I wasnt about to put that thing back in when I dont have, nor ever will have, anything to use it with.

 

All that griping aside I still love my "D's"

Edited December 8, 2016 by pacer

[elliot ness 1,916]

I will agree that the D's are some what harder to work on then the C's, but they are still much easier then the big JD's 300 & 400 series. Or the big Case Ingersoll's, I have had them all apart and the wheel horse D's are much easier then any other big brand tractor at least for me.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

14 hours ago, elliot ness said:

I will agree that the D's are some what harder to work on then the C's, but they are still much easier then the big JD's 300 & 400 series. Or the big Case Ingersoll's, I have had them all apart and the wheel horse D's are much easier then any other big brand tractor at least for me.

I'm a JD guy, but they are a bit more complicated than a Wheel Horse.  Not being too mechanical inclined, I prefer the simpler design of the Wheel Horse to work on.  But I do like the Case/Ingersols, the JDs, and the Cub Cadets also.  I guess I haven't met too many garden tractors of any brand that I don't like.

[Sarge 3,462]

If you carefully measure that starter solenoid you'll find it's a bit more offset in it's mounting than an off the shelf unit for Ford and others . AMC used that exact solenoid on some of their cars and I remember working on them back in the day - they mounted them in some really odd spots on the Eagle and other models with the back side dead up against something , buried deep to boot . It was always a challenge finding parts , some stuff fit from the Auto parts stores , other stuff had to come directly from AMC - especially clutch kits for some reason as they had odd depth throwout bearings and clutch disks . No different than International and their trucks - had to stay away from aftermarket stuff if you wanted it to fit correctly , especially clutch/brake parts ....ugh .

Personally , the D is easy to work on compared to many other tractors/equipment I've worked on . I have had experience on just about anything with an engine , from heavy equipment to some light aircraft and spent a lot of years building dirt race cars , offroad trucks for others and my own 4x4's - try working on a Pinzgauer or Unimog . I worked with an old diesel shop , the owner never turned down anything - including a sail boat that had come off it's trailer and jammed the keel tight , that took 2 days to get it working and was pushing my woodworking skills to the limit the way those are fitted to seal .

One of the best engineered things I've ever worked on is my old '77 Land Cruiser FJ40 . There is nothing on that truck that isn't built to be overhauled - it's all in the manual . Waterpump , brake booster/master , steering box - it's all outlined in deep detail with specs to rebuild/overhaul to make new again . Layout is far better than most things , albeit quite heavy and seriously overbuilt . No wonder so many are still running despite neglect and serious abuse in 3rd world nations in some of the worst conditions and terrain you can imagine . Restoring one is deadly expensive as many OEM parts are NLA and becoming very expensive . OEM is the best to use but seriously expensive - all the window/hardtop/doors/windshield rubber totals over $3500 alone . Record so far on a nice but not dead perfect '76 hardtop went for $109,000 at auction for a truck that will beat you to a pulp driving it and outlive almost any human willing to endure the beating ....very much like our beloved Wheel Horses ..lol .

 

I have noticed prices on tractors and parts has started to climb again and a whole new generation of owners showing up with newbie questions . Don't take it the wrong way - it's a good thing to keep them alive and prevent them going to the scrap yards by the dozen as they did in the past . It's also nice to see them show up on the various forums despite the questions covering 101 basics on engines and tractors in general - it's teaching a new generation of people willing to learn mechanics and do their own work . As long as the older generations that grew up doing this stuff keeps them honest and not let them totally pollute things with bad habits and ideals it's all good . I'm not too thrilled with some of the new sellers showing up on FB , the forums , Ebay and CL - some are trying to command high prices on totally junk parts so buyers beware . All we can do is teach - what is good , what is bad and what can be repaired or somehow fixed .

 

I think I've pretty much fixed the issue with the D's wearing out steering spindles and will do further work to prevent too much iron hitting the scrap pile . The real challenge is stop so many easily repaired whole tractors from being parted out - I'm commonly seeing good runners being dismantled just for the sake of a profit and that's not a good thing .

 

Kudos for saving one - not a whole lot of info on them and I'm learning the model myself so I'm highly interested in any info that crops up and will do what I can to help .

 

Sarge

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

Well said Sarge.I'm doing a complete re-wire job on the D200 right now.Minus all the law suit switches(they're missing anyway)Just have to remember to open the shop door before I start it.Or.......remember to put it in neutral.I'm the only operator here.No little kids and the Squaw isn't interested enough to ever try and start it.Just as well.......

[Sarge 3,462]

I've got the odd model D-180 with the parking brake in the direction handle . Properly adjusted , it actually works great and it's so nice to have live hydraulics without the worry of the thing suddenly taking off . No idea why they went with the separate park brake that didn't interlock with the direction lever - that can spell disaster quickly for the transmission's internals .

Sarge

[pfrederi 17,129]

1 hour ago, Sarge said:

I've got the odd model D-180 with the parking brake in the direction handle . Properly adjusted , it actually works great and it's so nice to have live hydraulics without the worry of the thing suddenly taking off . No idea why they went with the separate park brake that didn't interlock with the direction lever - that can spell disaster quickly for the transmission's internals .

Sarge

The parking brake below the dash board that activates the internal parking pawl does interface with the motion control lever.  You have to step on the brake pedal to engage it and that kicks the motion control to neutral/.  If you try to move it when you are moving forward (or with out stepping on the brake pedal )it starts to move the motion control to neutral...but it requires a lot of effort to do it. 

 

That interface is one of the reasons the D series motion control linkage is so complex.

[Sarge 3,462]

Thanks for the clarification - I need to get my hands on a later model 200 anyway ....for research , perhaps...

Sarge