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Texas Todd

Here Goes the 856

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WHX??

Just to chiming  in to follow  and say great work! :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Texas Todd

When it's warm enough it's been too windy to paint. When it's calm, it's too cold. So I built this 8x10 "paint booth" in my barn for $20.  Gonna give it a go today since it's supposed to be 68 degrees.

PaintBooth1.jpg

PaintBooth.jpg

It should be a lot more red by the end of the day.

 

 

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Texas Todd

Well, it worked and got the job done, but doubt I would do it again. Too many trips in and out and the plastic starts getting pretty sticky and makes footing less than enjoyable. But it worked and the red is on. Got finished and cleaned the gun only to turn around and see the hood stand sitting there all primed.... Grrrr.....Only thing left is the wheels. And we will see how long I can let the paint cure...If I can make it til Wednesday, the deep freeze is going to set back in and the desire will be absent. 

Painted1.jpg

Painted2.jpg

 

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Texas Todd

As I have said before, patience is overrated. Beautiful day and just had to get started.  Still waiting on some bits in the mail so can't get much further. 

 

 

 

Install Day 2.jpg

Edited by Texas Todd
Better pic
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stevebo

Love to see when a job is being done well. Keep up the good work!

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Texas Todd

Brought my C-121 worker back from my property for the winter for some maintenance and to get it out of the weather for a few months. This will be a candidate for restoration next winter I think, if we get the new house and shop built, that is....

Winter 2016.jpg

Satisfying to sit and look at the 5 Horse's covering 5 decades in the shop this winter.....

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Texas Todd

Not much of an update, but it is 20 something outside. I think the windchill is 8. We got a dusting of snow today.....I don't know how you guys up north deal with it all winter. Supposed to be 71 Tuesday, so I will be back in the shop then.

 

@gtguy came through with a belt guard and some seat springs I had been needing/wanting. He has literally hundreds of parts tractors of all makes. I was glad to score the belt guard. Now I don't have to re-install the jerry-rigged attachment shown above. Stay warm all!

 

beltguard.jpg

 

 

 

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WHX??

Took care of some bussiness today ith a guy who was in Dallas and he said the roads there were icy and slippery. Sounds like you were up north Todd....... then again it was -12 here this morning and alot colder with wind chill ....stay thirsty... oh ...I mean warm my friend...but keep up the nice work!

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Texas Todd

It's been much worse for sure. Think Superbowl 48 in 2011......Today was the Sahara by comparison....is there really a difference in +8 and -12? I have a friend who use to live in Iqaluit,Nunavut and he said, oh yes, big difference in 0 and -50..... I just hope I never get to confirm that......

 

Come on April!!!!

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Texas Todd

I didn't notice this when I took it apart, but when I put it back together, it has a stance like a duck. Both front tires pointed out quite a bit. Did I mess something up or is it just time for tie rods? I knew they went bad, but didn't know the symptoms. Tie rods aren't bent and went back on just like they came off. Very odd. Should have taken a pic, but can do in the morning.

 

Morning - Schmorning. It hit me what I did wrong. I put the bolt up through the spindle bracket instead of going down. Swapped left to right and voila! it is back to true tracking.....I will sleep better tonight.

Those Deestone 10.50's were a bear to mount on the stock rims.  With a pneumatic machine it would have been no big deal, but my little harbor freight tire mounting gadget took all I had to get those babies on. The 4.00 tri-ribs were smooth sailing.

Tie Rod Solved.jpg

New Shoes.jpg

 

Edited by Texas Todd
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WHX??

Tires look real nice...good choice! :handgestures-thumbupright:

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oliver2-44

As ol Tony the Tiger used to say that's

"Looking Great!" :greetings-clappingyellow::woohoo:

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Texas Todd

I think I am about to start the wiring. I have some questions. I don't know if I should put this in the Electrical Section as well.  I started reading about magneto ignitions, which the 856 apparently had.  From the 856 wiring manual there was no solenoid. Mine has a solenoid.  When I purchased it, the coil was missing. It also had a huge key switch, which I now suspect was one of the Cole Hersee switches.  I had a coil from a 1979 C-121 12 horse so I put it on. I also changed out the switch to a 5 pole switch that I had. I followed  this wiring guide to test fire the engine and all is fine. I also replaced the points, which were apparently bad. The condenser was working fine.

tractor-wiring-copy-web.jpg

 

As I said I got it running good enough to the tear down to commence. Still needs some carburetor tuning.

 

Here are my questions.

a. If it originally came with a magneto coil and switch, have I effectively converted it to a regular ignition using the coil from the C-121 and different switch (as well as someone adding a solenoid)?

 

b. Did the ole Cole Hersee switch carry out the same function that a solenoid carries out?

 

c. Can I still hook up the generator light on the panel? If so, how?

 

d. I am going to add LED headlights somehow or another. I assume it would be okay to run them off the same circuit the cigarette lighter is on, which will be off the accessory pole on the switch (both fused of course).

 

Since this tractor doesn't have a stator but a generator, I guess I just ran the wiring the same as off the rectifier in the diagram.

 

I must admit, I don't have a good handle on the different ignition systems. When I read something about burning up a coil if it wasn't wired right, I thought I would ask a few questions. All help appreciated.

 

I also found a picture of the original ignition switch if that is any help.

Original Keyswitch.jpg

 

Edited by Texas Todd

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WHX??

This is from the IPL and can be had here...

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1843-tractor-1966-856-da-om-ipl-wiring-snpdf/

 

 

Capture.JPG

This type of setup required a ignition switch that was capable of handling the high current of the starter plus heavy wiring to the switch. Looks like a PO add the starter solenoid which  one could then use a standard. switch.

This was also done on my 1067 which I intend to retain as it did work good for many years. It is basically the same as stock but it allows the use of the solenoid to provide the heavy current to the starter so other types of key switches can be used. I don't have the exact wiring since I am far from that step in my project. I'm sure others will chime in with it. There might be more info in the files section as well. Some where there is some good info there on the regulator as well (mounted on top the S/G). See if I can find it.

 

Edited by WHX9
add

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WHX??

BTW yes, lights on models that had them came right off the cig lighter in the above diagram. I would fuse them just to be safe.

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Texas Todd

Thank you sir!

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WHX??

Your welcome, I'll be dipped in doggy do if I can find that piece on the Delco regulator. It had the when, where, how to on checking, adjusting & wiring  those regs. Required reading for anyone with a pre '68 K motor. Might have been in one of the  K manuals too.

Edited by WHX9

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Texas Todd

Well made some progress today. Got it wired up and fired er up on the first try. Was tickled with that. Received the stack muffler from @jimkemp today and will paint before installing.  Test fitted the hood. Was hoping to put bushings in the mount, but may not have enough room. 50 years of opening and closing have taken there toll on the hood and the mount pins. Was aiming to do what I did on the 1056, but the mount is different, there isn't a removable pin. The mounting pin is welded to the frame and the hood just goes on over the ends of the pins.

This was on the 1056:

Bushing installed.jpg

The seat springs added sure make this short guy ride high in the saddle! This must be what it feels like to be over 6' tall!

Rear View Seat Spring Ags.jpg

As difficult as it was to get those Deestones on the stock rims, I like how they turned out. It makes the BKT 8.50's on the C-121 look puny. But they are both 6 ply, so should be good on problems.

The rims that were rusted through are still holding from my fix of weld, JB weld and gorilla tape.

Hood and Test Fire.jpg

Coming together. Tomorrow is fitting the belt guard from the 656 to the 856. I was hoping the engine block mount was in the same place, but its not.  Both mounting tabs are broken off the tractor so I will be improvising a fix of some sort. Any suggestions are appreciated. My first thought was to put a bolt throught the frame in the right sport and put a crown nut on it. the top tab I have done before with a piece of angle sticking out of the shifter tunnel...Wish that 1056 was here so I could see how I did it. That's what I get for giving it to my son.....

 

Thanks for the reinforcement on the wiring guys!

 

 

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jimkemp

Glad you like the muffler , I really got to get back to work on my 656 :unsure:

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Texas Todd

A little bit more progress. The belt guard was a booger to attach. All four mounting points had to be fabricated. But it's done.

Belt cover.jpg

Attached the stack and all wiring is done. The all important cigarette lighter was installed as well today. The lift arm is in place as well.

Next is to figure out the hood attachment. There has to be a better way, that will make it wobble less. I painted the muffler with Rustoleum high heat caliper paint. We will see how long it looks that red. Matches the regal red pretty well.

Lift Arm Stack.jpg

 

I hadn't noticed how worn the steering wheel is. Does anyone have a good suggestion on refurbishing the wheel? There has to be something you can rub on it to bring it back some life.

Also I am in need of a hood ornament if anyone has one they would let go.

 

Received the hour meter today and will find a place to mount it. Ordered a 7" LED light bar but not sure that it will work as I planned. The mounts recess it back too far and it's sort of heavy... I was going to cut the top band out where the headlights would go and mount it there, but again, I don't think it would work without causing damage at some point due to the weight of the light bar. If anyone has succeeded with something like this, please let me know.

 

My 1056 had a hood rest to keep the hood from going all the way to the ground when tilting it forward. As I recall it was just a 3-4 inch piece of angle. I haven't located any in an owner's manual so I guess it was homemade. I dipped it in plasti-dip to help in not scratching the paint.

Hood Rest.jpg

 

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WHX??

A-Z tractors have the hood ornaments Todd..resonable to boot but may need recrome for a trailer queen. He is in the vendors section. On the wheel I don't know if it would be appropriate for your build or wheel but a  few of us have recovered them with the spray on bed liner.....just a thought.

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Texas Todd

Thanks. Do you have pics of the liner covered wheels? Wouldn't have thought of that. Will check with A-Z on hood ornament. 

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WHX??

I don't have any  pics handy but @Racinbob might. We used it on RJ & 'burban wheels and was the cats pajamas. Gives a nice non slip grip but some bondo work might be in order first?? 

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Texas Todd

Mine has some pretty serious splits and is rather weathered. Anything would be an improvement. Maybe @Racinbob will chime in. Gracias!

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oliver2-44

in my high school Ford tractor shop days I Bondo'ed a few 8N ford steering wheels under an old painters watchful (fowl mouthed) eyes.   They seemed to hold up!

 

I'l also like to hear how the bed liner is holding up. I've heard some can rub off black on your hands after a while?

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