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I picked up a 520H and snow thrower in August with 525 hours on it, the engine runs fine, the trans seems to be in good shape and the paint is good. The wiring needs attention and there's a whole list of small stuff I want to do to it so I figured I'd make a winter project out of it, my intent is to make this my snow machine when it's done. I didn't take a pic of it before I started but there is one on page 2 of the "sold archive" in the Classified section. The only thing I'm gonna paint is the top of the air cleaner, the battery compartment and the rims, the body tins will be shined up and everything else will be cleaned and left as it is. I plan on checking the valves and carbon on the engine while it's apart and cleaning the carb and I think I'll put axle seals in the tranny while I'm at it. So far I've picked up a new seat, a set of decals from Terry and a foot pedal kit from Matt. It'll get new tires also. Here's a few pics of the tear down. 

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hi denny, the rear of the seat support brackets appear in good shape on your 520H.  however, often times they crack and break off.  since you have it torn down, may i suggest an idea. on the top of the angle iron brace between the pump and transaxle weld a 3/16 inch thick small strip of metal.  this provides a 3rd support (in the middle) for the weak 2 rear seat supports.. i do this to all the 3,4,500 series hydros i get.  just a thought to help prevent a future problem..  best regards  mike in mass. 

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Thanks, Mike. I'll check it out. 

11 minutes ago, mrc said:

hi denny, the rear of the seat support brackets appear in good shape on your 520H.  however, often times they crack and break off.  since you have it torn down, may i suggest an idea. on the top of the angle iron brace between the pump and transaxle weld a 3/16 inch thick small strip of metal.  this provides a 3rd support (in the middle) for the weak 2 rear seat supports.. i do this to all the 3,4,500 series hydros i get.  just a thought to help prevent a future problem..  best regards  mike in mass. 

 

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Looking great.

 

I have never went this far on any of my 520's

 

You really cleaned everything up good.

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This transaxle was really clean inside, just a little sediment from the oil and that was it. 

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While you have access to the drive belt tension pulley, check the shaft that the tension pulley is on. where the shaft goes through the hood stand, it wears the small thin bushing that goes through there. It also wears the shaft bad. Mine was wore so bad the bushing was nonexistent. The factory bushing is way to thin for that application. I drilled it out and inserted a way heavier oil impregnated bronze bushing.

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1 hour ago, MalMac said:

While you have access to the drive belt tension pulley, check the shaft that the tension pulley is on. where the shaft goes through the hood stand, it wears the small thin bushing that goes through there. It also wears the shaft bad. Mine was wore so bad the bushing was nonexistent. The factory bushing is way to thin for that application. I drilled it out and inserted a way heavier oil impregnated bronze bushing.

I'll check that, Tim. Thanks for the tip. 

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17 hours ago, MalMac said:

While you have access to the drive belt tension pulley, check the shaft that the tension pulley is on. where the shaft goes through the hood stand, it wears the small thin bushing that goes through there. It also wears the shaft bad. Mine was wore so bad the bushing was nonexistent. The factory bushing is way to thin for that application. I drilled it out and inserted a way heavier oil impregnated bronze bushing.

I checked that shaft and found it to have some play, The shaft is good but the 7879 bushing was worn some and was loose in the hole. I wasn't sure a new bushing would fit tight in the hole and I really didn't want to pay $13 for it to find out so I reamed the hole to fit a thicker bushing that I had in stock. The flange on the new bushing is a little thicker so to keep the pulley lined up I took the spacer out of the pulley bearing and shortened it a little on the lathe. Overall I'm pretty happy with how it worked out, the play in the shaft is gone, I have a thicker bushing that fits tight in the hole and this bushing (Toro #6229) is closer to $5 instead of $13. 

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Just about same thing I did Denny. Really smoothes out the running of the belt. Mine even got more quite.

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This morning I got the repair kit for my lift cylinder and a nice pair of foot rest pads from "Classickitchens". Thanks Eldon!  I got the kit installed and the cylinder back on and that sealed up the hydro system so I filled the tranny with 10-30 synthetic. I also got the engine degreased and hopefully in the next few days I'll get the valves checked and get it back on the tractor. 

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It warmed up a little today so I got a few more things done. I have the front rims blasted so I put new bearings in then mounted all 4 bare rims back on the tractor and set the toe in on the front. Then I mounted the front tires and primed those front rims, after I get a coat of silver sprayed on them I'll seat the tires and get those back on the tractor. Two down and two to go. I picked up one of those mini tire changers from Harbor Freight a few weeks ago, it worked pretty well on the front tires but I had a little trouble taking the rear tires off. Once I get the rear rims blasted we'll see if the new rear tires go on any easier. I also checked the valve stem clearance and cleaned up what little carbon there was on the head and piston and took the top off the carb and cleaned it out then bolted the engine back on the frame. 

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Looks like your moving right long Denny. For long you'll be blowing snow with it.

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I made a new wiring harness for the engine and got that installed and got the tins back on the engine, a new set of battery cables and I think most of the wiring is done. 

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I see you have the same habit as I in loading up the hardware ready for the next piece. :handgestures-thumbupright:

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2 minutes ago, WHX9 said:

I see you have the same habit as I in loading up the hardware ready for the next piece. :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

Yeah, it seems like if I don't do that I can't remember what goes where. Getting old I guess. lol

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I hear ya there Denny, a good shop practice even if you have a "young" memory.   It also helps if you are going to replace a fastener with say stainless or other type you have the correct dimensions from what was OEM. length/thread which can be critical in those over the tank pan & seat bolts & other areas.

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