Snowblower lift bar and flag

[Reel Mower Freak 125]

Hi guys. I'm missing the lift bar and flag/bar as well as the mounting bolt to install my snowblower on my Raider10.  The mounting bolt seems straight forward enough to replace but the lift bar is another story.Does anyone have the dimensions of the bar assy and material used so I can get one made? My blower is a 6-6212 with a 6-9112 completing package.

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,496]

The bolt is 3/8-16 x 8-1/2". There are also 2 bushings that adapt the 3/8" bolt to the hole in the arms or maybe they go into the frame. One of those holes is larger. They are flanged so maybe you can weld a washer to a steel bushing as a work-around.

 

Garry

[Reel Mower Freak 125]

Thanks Gary. It's a start.  

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,496]

This on the flag and tube should help. If you need more just holler.

Garry

[Reel Mower Freak 125]

That's just what I need. I searched on here for it but had snow "blower" in my search and not "thrower". I've also read of guys with plows using a solid bar if they have power lifts and wondered if I could use a solid bar instead of having the flag on the short tube which slides into the longer tube that they had originally? I have the power lift accessory on my Raider.It would just be easier to build I think.

[wallfish 15,919]

The two piece lift with the tube and flag allows the blower to float with the changes of the the terrain. Even more critical with hydro lift since that stays stationary. If locked with a solid link the blower could raise off the ground or raise your front tires off the ground, depending on conditions. Manual lift would allow the lift handle to move if locked solid.

Think you're better off using the two piece design.

The solid link for the snow plow is to apply down pressure which you don't need for a blower, they're heavy enough to scrape the ground clean without it.

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

   Like John said.   And the two piece is a lot easier to install than the one piece.    I had to learn for myself when I built a solid push bar.

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

   Like John said.   And the two piece is a lot easier to install than the one piece.    I had to learn for myself when I built a solid push bar.

[roadapples 6,981]

Ed, we heard you the first time...

Edited November 17, 2016 by roadapples

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

Not sure how that double post is possible Jay.   Let's see if it happens again.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,496]

6 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Not sure how that double post is possible Jay.   Let's see if it happens again.

We have to double-click often and think if timed just right it generates a double post. I'm guilty also.

 

Garry

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,496]

That kink in the flat metal for the flag is hard for most of us to duplicate. Have a welder so I would use 2 pieces of flat bar, overlap and weld them together.

 

I use the same idea for a lift link. Use the unthreaded portion of long grade 5 bolts of the appropriate diameter for pins. Drill holes for the pins. Only the head of the bolt is welded to the flat bar. If an offset is required the bolts are inserted in opposite directions. The offset is then equal to the thickness of the flat stock used.

Drill the hole for the cotter or spring pin perpendicular to the flat bar allowing just enough room for the lever it is attached to. Now you can install the pin without looking for the hole because you know where it is. Using a countersink on both sides of the small hole to chamfer it also makes finding the hole easier. 

The attachment holes and pins don't wear near as much from use when done this way. The pin is nice and square to everything and would work on the flag also.

 

Garry

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

Great technique  Garry...... using the bolt shank for pins and knowing where the cotter pin hole is located. 

On the flags that I weld up, I just clamp the flat stock out of center on the round stock to create the proper offset.

I really question the need for the flag offset though.  I can not believe the minute angle change over the length of the push bar could affect the force required to lift the blower.

[Reel Mower Freak 125]

Well I have it mounted. Bought the hardware for the mounting bolt and made a bushing and it fits pretty well.Bought a new belt and put it on.I need to change the choke cable as it melted against the muffler yesterday. I'll do a test run tonight to make sure everything is working as it should. Disassemble and paint a bit. Waiting to hear back about getting a lift bar made. Things are coming together.

[Reel Mower Freak 125]

It's a working blower.No lift but everything else is good. Thanks for all the helpful posts and pm's. Great site.

[Reel Mower Freak 125]

Well my blower made it through the winter well. I did ingest a metal bar once but got lucky. I'm picking up another single stage blower tomorrow. I couldn't pass up the deal. Now I need to make another lift flag and get my C141Auto up and running for next winter.