grine_22 145 #1 Posted November 11, 2016 (edited) So I had a small brain fart a week ago, and back fed juice into the stator. Stator is fried now. Mowers a 310-8 with a 10 horse Kohler. Is the stator a 15 amp or 20? I can't seem to find a parts diagram. Motor number is 46863, k241s. Appreciate the help. Edited November 11, 2016 by grine_22 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,027 #2 Posted November 11, 2016 What is model and spec number of your motor 310-8s came with K series some of which had 3 amp unregulated systems some came with Magnums.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,441 #3 Posted November 11, 2016 K241-46863 was used in these models Garry Adding - Check it good. I would think the diode in the stator wire would have prevented any damage. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #4 Posted November 11, 2016 I will study the file more, but my tractor doesn't have the hour meter on it. It has 3 wires coming out from the shroud. If there is a diode in it, is it tucked inline under the engine shroud? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,441 #5 Posted November 12, 2016 I don't know what the 3rd wire would be for. One wire carries AC current produced by the stator to power the headlights and tail lights only. Your headlamps would only work with the engine running to produce power for them. The other wire is also AC current but just outside the engine cover there should be a diode in it. This is usually right at the plastic connector where those wires plug into the tractor harness. One harness produced by Kohler and the other by Wheel Horse. The diodes as a rule are covered with tape and you can feel the diode inside. I have not found a Kohler parts list yet. The one online is the same as the original we have and the spec numbers are about 5 short of what you have. What is your problem? Not charging? Do you have the stardard battery ignition coil mounted next to the carb? Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #6 Posted November 12, 2016 It does not charge anymore. I had a brainfart last week and put DC juice back to the stator. Now the lights won't work and the voltmeter just bounces. Yes I have the coil condensor ignition on this tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,441 #7 Posted November 12, 2016 9 hours ago, grine_22 said: It does not charge anymore. I had a brainfart last week and put DC juice back to the stator. Now the lights won't work and the voltmeter just bounces. Yes I have the coil condensor ignition on this tractor. Wanted to make sure the engine had not been changed to a different system and that we were on the same page. Guess the next step is to test the stator if you have not done it. Follow the test procedure starting on page 8.10 An AC voltmeter is required. Let us know what the results are. I still have no idea what the 3rd wire is for. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #8 Posted November 12, 2016 I've tested the stator, I tried testing it every way using all 3 wires with different patterns and it will not read anything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,441 #9 Posted November 12, 2016 Sounds like it is time to pull the flywheel and see where the wires go. Then testing will make sense. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,027 #10 Posted November 12, 2016 The two stator circuits one for the charge and one for the lights are separate. Strange you could have both fail at the same time... Do your lights work when engine is running??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #11 Posted November 12, 2016 The lights do not work when engine is running. Motor still runs, just no charge. Guess I will need to throw my trickle charger on it more often. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,027 #12 Posted November 12, 2016 Does this look like your set up?? Knowing your spec number would help... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,441 #13 Posted November 12, 2016 His spec number is 46863 which is correct for 1986. Garry 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,027 #14 Posted November 12, 2016 (edited) 21 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: I am having ISP connection issues. I have the 3 amp system 46849 46489 spec. There are three wires on the engine side of the plug. One is coil, yellow is headlight and black is charge circuit. I can feel i think the diode just inside the plastic sleeve. Mine shows less then one ohm to ground on the light circuit...open on the charge circuit. On teh WH side of the plug there are two wires connected to the charge terminal. i have to trace those to see why the split. Edited November 12, 2016 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #15 Posted November 12, 2016 Yes that looks like my setup Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,027 #16 Posted November 12, 2016 I am wondering if you fried the diode...Did you check for resistance with the probe between the diode and the stator??? In mine the diode is just inside the plastic sleeve. One confusion here the WH wire diagram colors are only applicable from that side of the plug on through the tractor. Kohler used different colors...yellow for the head light blackish for the charge circuit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #17 Posted November 12, 2016 (edited) I was trying to wire the headlights up from ac to DC, which I don't know if its possible to even do, but I hooked the wires up backwards and had the switch on for maybe 30 seconds and smoke started coming out from under the flywheel shroud. Now when it runs the voltmeter just bounces near 8 and headlights don't even work. Edited November 12, 2016 by grine_22 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,027 #18 Posted November 12, 2016 Doesn't sound promising. Fir some reason the Kohler website doesn't show my spec number and for yours only shows 2 parts sections...strange. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #19 Posted November 12, 2016 Hmmmm. I'll get to fixing it this winter, its not something needing done asap. How hard would it be to switch it over to a 15 amp system, change stator, RR, and the flywheel or is there more to it than that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #20 Posted December 20, 2016 Question for the electrical wizards. how hard would it be to switch the charge system over from a 3 amp unregulated, to a 10-15 amp charge system? I'm not scared of wiring or diagrams, I just want some advice. From what I understand I will need to add a RR if I change systems, but other than that and switching headlights to DC are there any other qualms? Or will it be easier to chase down a 3 amp stator? Responses are greatly appreciated, thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,027 #21 Posted December 20, 2016 Not hard. You will have to pull the flywheel and install a new stator. The two wires from it will go to your new regulator you will have to buy. One wire from it to your ignition switch R terminal. You will also have to wire the headlights to the ACC terminal on your ignition switch and buy new bulbs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,441 #22 Posted December 20, 2016 The bulbs don't care if they get AC or DC current. They will work on both. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,027 #23 Posted December 20, 2016 (edited) 45 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: The bulbs don't care if they get AC or DC current. They will work on both. Garry They do care about the voltage. The AC system puts out a varying voltage around 30 +/- They will work on 12v DC if you like mood lighting e.g. very dim. MY BAD... They are 12 volt no need to change bulbs i was thinking of the AC stator output on 10-15 amp system SORRY! Edited December 20, 2016 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #24 Posted December 20, 2016 Thanks. Pulling flywheel is no big deal. Got the parts ordered so once they are in I will get things switched around. Thanks for the help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grine_22 145 #25 Posted December 22, 2016 Got bored tonight and tinkered around. Used continuity tester n traced all the wires through the connector from the stator. Got everything marked and ready for rewiring once the new parts come in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites