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Hacksawhero123

Best penetrating oil

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DennisThornton

Some added thoughts.  

 

I think some folks try something and it doesn't work, then something else, then something, then, and then they declare ALL of them junk!  I'm thinking that it might not be a fair test if you fill all the voids, cracks and places for a penetrant to penetrate and then blame the rest for not being able to "get in there" and "get the job done"!  They can't if there is no longer space!  Maybe on mission critical cases one should first try the best they have. Who knows what it the best, but if it's important try to best you have!  

 

Then grab the torch and a big hammer and beat the crap out it!

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Jerry77
1 hour ago, DennisThornton said:

Then grab the torch and a big hammer and beat the crap out it

:text-yeahthat:   If you can't fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem:laughing-rofl:

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Hacksawhero123

After 24 years in the electrical trade, I would agree with Jerry. 

Mark

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Aldon

Kroil

 

Everything else a distant second thus far.

 

Tried most in this thread.

 

When lack of urgency or volume(like tearing a complete parts tract apart) I take the economical  route as Kroil is spendy, especially in spray can which I prefer, which has been PB blaster of late.

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stevebo
On 11/4/2016 at 4:59 PM, Hacksawhero123 said:

From a gunsmiths forum I ran across a post about penetrating oils. A scientific test was performed with most available oils. WD40 was not so effective. Kroil and PB Baster worked well. The best performer was a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. I mixed up a squirt bottle full and have been using it with good success on my C160. I'm impressed. Anyone else ever heard of it or tried it??

Mark. 

I have and it works great. Out of pure laziness I have not used it recently rather a can of spray from the store (whatever is on sale). I need to mix some of that motion lotion up again and get to using it...

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DennisThornton

I suspect that I'm just a trained zombie promoting Kroil, but alas, when it's critical, that's what comes out!  Kroil!

 

Now CRC made something that I thought was pretty darned good too!  What was that...

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gwest_ca

Was measuring out some Seafoam to add to fuel on top of a rusty old top of a 45 gallon drum I had cut out of the drum. I let one drop hit the lid. In 2 weeks that single drop had migrated to completely cover the top and started on the underside. Now I see Seafoam has a product they call Deep Creep and would not be surprised if it is the same product.

 

Garry

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doc724

I am not familiar with any steering wheel on a WH that is bolted in??  Doesn't mean it does not exist, just not in my limited experience.  Do you have it setting upside down (steering wheel down and shaft up) so the Kroil can seep in?  I am 5 for 5 on removing these, newest is a 1996 model and oldest is a 1978 model.

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Sarge

Yes, many of the older models used steering wheels that bolted down onto the shaft to retain them against a keyway . And , yeah - they get stuck something fierce ...

 

CRC's old product was 5-56 , not even sure it's still made .

I have used Seafoam's Deep Creep - works pretty well ..

Another oddball is Gibb's , very popular among the hot rod crowd , holy crap expensive at $20/can retail . You can order case quantities and get it down below $10/can...

Ed's Red is by far one of the most aggressive , adding brake fluid as per the scrap guys is just another iteration . Be careful with this stuff , it's amazingly flammable and in quantities can have explosive fumes . Also , be aware that adding certain oxidizers can yield some odd results - like starting to melt aluminum and such . Best to study chemical reaction tables first before playing with some of this stuff , trust me ...

Be really wary of what you use on Magnesium - it has it's own oxidizer so it can react with certain chemicals and combust on it's own , and you will not put it out unless it's buried in sand .

 

Frankly, getting the steering rod out of some of the older wheels is easier just to drill it out in steps using the bolt hole as a centering spot - make up a new end , bevel and weld it on ...much faster/easier . Keyway can be cut with either a dremel or small diameter cutoff wheel on a die grinder with some careful measurements .

 

I have never found anything I couldn't get apart with either chemical penetrants , the Harris torch or my Miller welder ....yet .

 

Sarge

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BaySide1

Nissan Used to make a great penetrating oil. Have not bought any in a while. Had to get it at Nissan.

 

I am also a fan of Seafoam's Deep Creep, awesome stuff.

 

Then, there is always Rem Oil.

On 11/8/2016 at 7:08 AM, gwest_ca said:

Was measuring out some Seafoam to add to fuel on top of a rusty old top of a 45 gallon drum I had cut out of the drum. I let one drop hit the lid. In 2 weeks that single drop had migrated to completely cover the top and started on the underside. Now I see Seafoam has a product they call Deep Creep and would not be surprised if it is the same product.

 

Garry

Deep Creep is awesome. It has been around since the 50's.

I have a can ready at all times.

Edited by BaySide1
sp

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Elkskin's mower junkyard

i for one tried all the penetrating oils except kroll oil cant find it local. i have tried to get steering wheels and other things off (including pins in wheel horse transmissions i drill 3 holes if trans is junk and let penetrating oil sit in there) the only thing that seems to work for me is 50/50 mix acetone atf.

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tunahead72

freak, I've never used Kroil myself, but I do hear good things about it.  My local True Value carries it, do you have one near you?

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hermitman

Personally, I like Sea Foams Deep Creep. The best I ever used though was given to me by a Canadian customer when living in Florida. Nutsy Lube! As with all of them, patience is the best remedy!:rolleyes:

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Jaymon74
On 11/8/2016 at 7:08 AM, gwest_ca said:

Was measuring out some Seafoam to add to fuel on top of a rusty old top of a 45 gallon drum I had cut out of the drum. I let one drop hit the lid. In 2 weeks that single drop had migrated to completely cover the top and started on the underside. Now I see Seafoam has a product they call Deep Creep and would not be surprised if it is the same product.

 

Garry

I use Deep Creep. Works pretty good. I use it also on my headlight lenses when they start to get foggy. Makes them like new again. Spray and wipe. 

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Sarge

I just bought another gallon of Kroil - use it around here a lot . Deep Creep is good too , as well as Gibb's and at times Freeze Off comes in handy . Best , hands down is Ed's Red if you can get a container to hold in the acetone without it evaporating on you . I always keep at least a pound of canning Paraffin wax around for any cast iron stuck parts , ect...

 

If you're drilling/milling ect - take a try with TD Foamy - it was developed for use with annular cutters and the stuff is amazing for taps/drills/mills and such .

 

Sarge

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