Best penetrating oil

[Hacksawhero123 351]

From a gunsmiths forum I ran across a post about penetrating oils. A scientific test was performed with most available oils. WD40 was not so effective. Kroil and PB Baster worked well. The best performer was a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. I mixed up a squirt bottle full and have been using it with good success on my C160. I'm impressed. Anyone else ever heard of it or tried it??

Mark. 

[dcrage 621]

Tried it and was not happy -- My mixture separated into distinct layers quickly

 

Edited November 4, 2016 by dcrage

[Jerry77 1,218]

 Not trying to tell  you what to do, but you should have a lot of ventilation using acetone - fumes are really bad for your lungs..

That being said, I think P B Blaster is the best all around ( unless you can use a torch-that is the best) 

[Achto 26,550]

I've used the acetone/ATF mixture, it has worked great for me. Better than any thing I've bought off the shelf.

[Hacksawhero123 351]

Thanks for the safety tip, Jerry. I'm cautious to use flammables outside. Don't ask how I came about that. 😂

Mark. 

[illinilefttackle 399]

PB Blaster is good- but if you really need help- try KROIL. It freed up a 1959 Johnson Seahorse Motor I had- ATF & Acetone wouldn't touch it. Just my experience- Good Luck- Al

http://www.kanolabs.com/msn/

[bitten 133]

I have had good luck with Liquid Wrench. I think the PB blaster is junk. I have heard good things about the ATF/Acetone and do plan on trying it.

[ed lincoln 33]

I've used liquid wrench and pbblaster for years, but when I run into rusted on axle flanges on some garden tractors I use a torch and parafin wax.

[russellmc301 600]

liquid wrench is the best.

[857 horse 2,581]

back up....back-up                                 a torch and parrafin wax.????i missed about a paragraph of somthing....lol

[KC9KAS 4,741]

8 minutes ago, 857 horse said:

back up....back-up                                 a torch and parrafin wax.????i missed about a paragraph of somthing....lol

Yep, this works very well.

I work at a major automotive drive train remanufacture and they use this in the diesel department often!

 

I used this process on a broken bolt in a ChoreMaster handle. Couldn't budge it with penetrating oils, so I heated it and put some wax on the bolt....let it cool some, grabbed it with the vice grips and it screwed right out.

[Hacksawhero123 351]

I have heard of the wax, but I've yet to try it. I'll try anything when things get tough. 

Mark. 

[Thor27 720]

Kearney Rust Cutter, Comes in a 5 oz spray can, from cooper power systems.  Smells like Kroil, but dark colored like it has graphite?    Zep 45 is pretty good (and smells better)

[Digger 66 3,476]

X-3 on the heat & wax .

Heat the desired area & touch the wax to it .

Capillary action will suck the wax in same as soldering copper pipes .

Then when it cools a bit the wax will lubricate the threads during fastener removal .

[WheelHorseNut 222]

2 hours ago, Digger 66 said:

X-3 on the heat & wax .

Heat the desired area & touch the wax to it .

Capillary action will suck the wax in same as soldering copper pipes .

Then when it cools a bit the wax will lubricate the threads during fastener removal .

Yeah, I learned that from the magazine, Popular Hotrodding, when I was in high school.  They used a crayon though.  It does work!

[Anglo Traction 759]

Can't say what is the best Brand or home mix, but over here in the UK, I've mostly mixed and used my own for over 30 years.

Yes the ingredients are now considered noxious, but used intelligently have served me well.

Similar to the ATF /Acetone, I use a Redex additive and proper cellulose thinners.

I also often assist the freeing process by a little pre-soaking, then applying gentle heat to the main body mass and no hotter than a manageable hand held limit,

apply more mixture, then hit the smaller part (i.e. a bolt or pin ) with a direct shot of freezer spray.

By the time both parts have normalised in temperature, the mixture has penetrated and 95% of the time, the parts free up immediately.

If not, I repeat the process.

I also use a specific penetrating product with a graphite additive for items I don't wish to apply heat to, or can leave for long periods (weeks) to do it's job.

What I really like, is the challenge to actually separate the parts without damage.   

[DennisThornton 4,769]

23 hours ago, bitten said:

I have had good luck with Liquid Wrench. I think the PB blaster is junk. I have heard good things about the ATF/Acetone and do plan on trying it.

I've used a lot of both.  I think this is the first time I've heard anyone call PB Blaster junk.  Seems pretty good to me, though when the stakes are high I retrieve my can of Kroil from the safe!

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

57 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

I've used a lot of both.  I think this is the first time I've heard anyone call PB Blaster junk.  Seems pretty good to me, though when the stakes are high I retrieve my can of Kroil from the safe!

I use pb blaster and kroil as well. the kroil gives the xtra ooomph. Imho.

 

Glenn

[Hacksawhero123 351]

I've always used the poor boy methods. Although, a friend of mine is a distributor for Justice Brothers products. The JB80 penetrating oil is pretty good. Their chain lube is top notch. I have used the chain lube for years on my motorcycles. It actually stays on the chain instead of slinging everywhere. 

Mark. 

[KC9KAS 4,741]

I have never used Kroil, but I will try it sometime!

[bitten 133]

I've used a lot of both.  I think this is the first time I've heard anyone call PB Blaster junk.  Seems pretty good to me, though when the stakes are high I retrieve my can of Kroil from the safe!

 

I use to always use PB Blaster. I really don't think it is as good as it once was, and found the Liquid Wrench just works better.

[Sarge 3,462]

Go to Kano Laboratories web site - at times they offer a 2 can deal for a pretty good price and the stuff goes a long way.

My order of usage - Kroil , heat/Kroil , last resort - torch and wax . Just be aware that using paraffin can make it really tough to get paint to stick to a part - the stuff penetrates deep into the metal , especially castings . Re-heating will eventually burn it out , then blast and paint as usual without any problems .

Common paraffin is canning wax and is the purest food-grade form - sold by the pound at any decent grocery store , I just get a block and rip it into sticks with the band saw - lubricating the blade nicely , too . Works excellent for drilling as well - the heat from the bit melts it into the cutting flutes and helps a  lot .

 

Best , downright best tap lube/drilling stuff - TD Foamy , Fastenal carries it most times . You would not believe how well this stuff works , developed for annular steel cutting Mag drills - awesome .

 

Sarge

[ohiofarmer 3,157]

I have had problems with [aero] kroil not related with how well it works. It seems that the propellant leaks out and then you have to drill the can to get at it. i complained to the company and they did replace it, but it happened a second time before the can was empty. I found another product that is as good as Kroil at a better price.

http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05002

 

 I do not use the instructions on the can as it wastes too much product. I just use it like kroil [sparingly] and prefer to use it by spacing 4 applications over two days. you will actually see the product bubble as it worms its way in. Nothing I have tried comes close to Freeze-Off freeing up steel screws bonded to aluminum motorcycle cases. i usually apply the stuff to the fasteners for a week for those and the screws--even buggered up  45 year old Japanese Phillips [properly called JIS screws] will come out with the proper JIS bit. Also. there is nothing better to coax varnish out of a delicate motorcycle carburetor than Freeze-off. It takes a while, maybe a couple of days, but it will not damage the stuck slide pistons like some of the harsher stuff. Just the fumes from some carb cleaners will ruin hundred dollar diaphragms. Right now i have a wheel severely stuck to a hub on the C-i21. I just spray a bit on when i walk past the Horse and kick it sideways with loosened lug nuts. Time and patience should win the day.

 

 You can buy Freeze-off at o'reilles but it must be ordered from them. i use a 5$ off coupon from my earned points and get two cans at a big savings.

 

 For the home-made among you, i will give out the secret recipe from the salvage yard down the road, but  be advised that it will REMOVE PAINT. it is equal parts of transmission fluid, brake fluid , and acetone. The brake fluid is the rust-cutting and paint removing agent. Try it and see what you think. I have tried most of the stuff mentioned here and other hard to find penetrants as well, but at the end of the day, it is just one man's opinion, so use what suits your situation

[doc724 924]

PB Blaster for common problems like rusted bolts.  Kroil for the nasty stuff; hub removal, muffler removal, steering wheel drive pin removal.  Not familiar with TD Foamy.

[pfrederi 17,147]

I am wrestling with a steering wheel and for the moment I have to say neither Kroil or PB Blaster are doing anything.  I have it standing upright in a vice and have filled the well in the center of the steering wheel and left it over night 4 times now 2 nights each of Kroil and PB. I have the roll pin out and have each day used an impact socket as a drive tool and wacked it with an 8 lb sledge..this has always worked in the past but this one is stubborn