Jump to content
Dayton Murdock

Engine Overhaul

Recommended Posts

Dayton Murdock

Hi All

Well it looks like I get to overhaul or re-ring my Kohler K301

I will start today and take lots of Pic's

IMG_1356.JPG

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell

Looking forward to following this overhaul.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Mike'sHorseBarn

:text-yeahthat:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dayton Murdock

I started the tear down 

IMG_1367.JPG

IMG_1368.JPG

IMG_1370.JPG

IMG_1372.JPG

Look at the oil on top of the piston and the small divots in the piston

IMG_1374.JPG

IMG_1376.JPG

IMG_1375.JPG

IMG_1373.JPG

I measured the bore and it is round at 3.389" and straight at 3.389"

What piston size should I buy?

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
lynnmor

So what sort of matter was bouncing around in there? 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
KC9KAS

@Dayton MurdockThat tractor sure looks nice....don't scratch it while doing the rebuild!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

:text-yeahthat:I guess I don't see why you are going thru it looks good from here other than those marks lynn mentioned? Smoke.. knock?? I would go just the minimum .010. It doesn't appear to have been replaced before and the bore is "square"? Check the existing ring end gap for more suggestions/clues.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Hossenfeffa

Standard bore for the K301 is 3.375. If your bore is 3.389, then you are .014 over stock. A .010 over piston won't do you any good. What did you use to measure the bore? You could possibly have a worn (by .004) .010 over bore now. I would recommend you use a good bore gauge for an accurate measurement. The top of the piston indicates oil consumption. If, in fact, the 3.389 is an accurate measurement, then you are going to need to go with a .020 overbore, provided that the cylinder has no taper. It has without a doubt inhaled something into the cylinder at one time. You will also need a good accurate bore gauge to measure the big end of the rod. Don't skimp on making sure the rod to crankpin clearance is correct. Kohler specs only allow for about .002 of wear in that department

Edited by Hossenfeffa
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dayton Murdock
13 hours ago, Hossenfeffa said:

Standard bore for the K301 is 3.375. If your bore is 3.389, then you are .014 over stock. A .010 over piston won't do you any good. What did you use to measure the bore? You could possibly have a worn (by .004) .010 over bore now. I would recommend you use a good bore gauge for an accurate measurement. The top of the piston indicates oil consumption. If, in fact, the 3.389 is an accurate measurement, then you are going to need to go with a .020 overbore, provided that the cylinder has no taper. It has without a doubt inhaled something into the cylinder at one time. You will also need a good accurate bore gauge to measure the big end of the rod. Don't skimp on making sure the rod to crankpin clearance is correct. Kohler specs only allow for about .002 of wear in that department

 

Thanks for the reply

I used a Starrett telescoping gauge with 3"-4" mike to measure the bore and I am very confident with the measurement. A .010 over setup will get with in .004 would that not be a improvement? The puzzle I have is the piston measure 3.370 to 3.368 OD ?. I believe after boring out the cylinder they used the stock piston :angry-nono: My intention is to hone the bore change the piston/rings and get thru the season. Spring time I will do a complete overhaul on this engine. This Kohler is definitely worth the time and effort to rebuild.    

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dayton Murdock

Here are some more Pic's

The compression ring end gap was .057 and it should be .010-.020

the wiper ring end gap was .139 and also should be .010-.020  

IMG_1381.JPG

IMG_1380.JPG

IMG_1378.JPG

IMG_1377.JPG

IMG_1379.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oldredrider

Piston rings should be at least 1" below the block deck to measure ring gap. Measuring at the top of stroke in the cylinder (unless it has been bored) is not a representative diameter of the cylinder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??
6 hours ago, Dayton Murdock said:

they used the stock piston

That might explain the end gap and no .010 stamp on the piston.

 

6 hours ago, Dayton Murdock said:

Kohler is definitely worth the time and effort to rebuild.

Agreed,  the rest looks good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Hossenfeffa

At .019 piston to cylinder wall clearance, that thing had to been noisier than all get out! .007 to.010 is stock specs for the K301. Stock size piston is 3.368. A .010 over piston will get you pretty close, piston to cylinder wall clearance wise. That hone job on that cylinder bore is absolutely horrible! You will need to spend some time with a deglazing hone so the rings will seat. I would recommend using cast iron piston rings. Those K 301 engines are without a doubt, worth rebuilding, even rebuilding with some "more horsepower" modifications

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
prondzy

A re ring at this point will do absolutely nothing except spend your money. look at the thrust side of the piston, that thing has been slapping around for a long time, by putting new rings in you would be doing exactly waht they did and you will end up with the same results. you cannot put a round piston and rings in and expect them to fit an oval bore. machine it and do it right. and for piston size you wont be able to tell until you have looked for scratches.

Edited by prondzy
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Hossenfeffa
On 11/3/2016 at 6:07 PM, prondzy said:

A re ring at this point will do absolutely nothing except spend your money. look at the thrust side of the piston, that thing has been slapping around for a long time, by putting new rings in you would be doing exactly waht they did and you will end up with the same results. you cannot put a round piston and rings in and expect them to fit an oval bore. machine it and do it right. and for piston size you wont be able to tell until you have looked for scratches.

He did state that the bore was round and straight. If the cylinder will clean up, the slightly loose piston to cylinder wall clearance could be improved by knurling the new piston. I have used that trick to get by for awhile more than once.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dayton Murdock

I think that the piston to bore being at the upper limit and the ring end clearance in to spec should be an improvement over what I started with .020 of piston clearance and .054+ of end gap. I will post my first start after I get back from Cabo. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
JAinVA

Forget knurling anything.That is something you might do if you wanted get it to appear that all was right with the engine.Based on the pictures of the tractor the engine deserves to be done right.Have the block bored and honed.Do it right and it will out last you.The K series Kohlers are tough all nails.JAinVA

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Shynon

I personally would throw out those balance gears while you have it open unless you want one of these.

 

IMG_5616.JPG

IMG_5619.JPG

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dayton Murdock
6 hours ago, Shynon said:

I personally would throw out those balance gears while you have it open unless you want one of these.

 

IMG_5616.JPG

IMG_5619.JPG

Holy smokes that left a mark, maybe the governors was set too high🤔

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dayton Murdock

Hi All

I am back from 7 days in Cabo with my family. On my door step was a box with the parts I ordered ( Yea! ). Here are the photos of the piston, in the cylinder and the engine going back together.

IMG_1382.JPG

IMG_1383.JPG

IMG_1384.JPG

IMG_1385.JPG

IMG_1386.JPG

IMG_1390.JPG

IMG_1391.JPG

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dayton Murdock

It is finished and ready to go to work

IMG_0012.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...