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Duramax7man7

Hub Troub's.... HELP!

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Duramax7man7

OMGSH!!! I'm getting irritated! 

 

 Rented a hub puller and the bolts for the hub aren't long enough and only go just short of half way into the hub. I busted a lug bolt out of the hub (it still has viable threads though) and I'm wonder if anyone has any tips or tricks. 

 

Ive used penetrating spray and heat on the hub. I may have used to much heat though? Don't know. 

 

Any idea's would be great. This friggin thing seems welded on!? 

 

Andrew C.

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SylvanLakeWH

:text-welcomeconfetti:

 

search for "stuck hubs" in search bar top right. Dozens of threads will come up...

good luck!

Good to see Michigan folks! 

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lynnmor

Only use a puller that fully engages all 5 bolt holes.  You should find some good information with a search as suggested.  I made a puller and will post a photo tomorrow if it will help.

 

Keep in mind that the hub may have rotated and the key is no longer aligned with the key slot.  If that happened, the only way to get it off is to rotate the hub back into alignment.

Edited by lynnmor
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Duramax7man7

Thanks guys and YIKES!? That sounds like a PIA.

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bmsgaffer

If you have already destroyed the hub, you can hacksaw it in half right up to the key and crack it off. 

 

If you have not yet destroyed it, do a search as mentioned above. People have been very creative and make their own pullers. Some use another old trashed hub that still has the 5 bolt holes, some have made plates, some make flange pullers that reach all the way to the back of the hub.

 

One key though I have heard is it is best to always use grade 8 bolts that are SMALLER than the threads in the hub, then put a washer and nut behind the hub. You spread out the pulling force over much more area of the cast hub this way and less chance of breaking or pulling out threads. 

 

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pfrederi

The small puller has 3/8 gr8 bolts that slip through the 7/16 hub holes and save the threads

 

The big one is on  a D series but you could use eh same idea on yours pull from the back,  it is not an optical illusion in the one picture I bent 2 -  1.25 inch thick wall tubes pulling the hub

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Duramax7man7

Thanks!

 

 What size bolts will I need for that bottom setup? That will be my most accessible setup... Calling around right now to local shops to see if I attain this stuff. 

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pfrederi

Small bolts are 3/8 x 5"  Center I used 3/4 x 6"

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Duramax7man7

Thanks a ton! Will hunt that down. I found a local place that has grade 8, 3/8" and 3/4 @ 5" bolts but only grade 5 nuts... Will that work? I cold get them today. 

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BOB ELLISON

Don't forget to use a lot of penetrating oil such as WD40, Pb BLASTER or kyoil.

Let soak . Some guys have soaked it for days before it will let loose.DO NOT HAMMER ON IT you will destroy the bearings and gear snap ring. At that point a total removial of and rebuild will be the only hope. Ask me how I know this....I used a 3 arm puller and broke the hub in peaces. Pfrederi has the best setup you can have.

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pfrederi

I do not see why not.  They should still be strong enough.

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bmsgaffer

I cant tell if the one above is or not, but if you can find a fine threaded nut and bolt for the center that would be best. If you have any around you check Fastenal, the bigger stores can be well stocked. 

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Duramax7man7
44 minutes ago, BOB ELLISON said:

Don't forget to use a lot of penetrating oil such as WD40, Pb BLASTER or kyoil.

Let soak . Some guys have soaked it for days before it will let loose.DO NOT HAMMER ON IT you will destroy the bearings and gear snap ring. At that point a total removial of and rebuild will be the only hope. Ask me how I know this....I used a 3 arm puller and broke the hub in peaces. Pfrederi has the best setup you can have.

 Roger that! Kind of no brainer when it comes to axles huh? "Don't destroy the thing that moves the machine". :)

44 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

I do not see why not.  They should still be strong enough.

 

 

 AWesome! Looks like I be winning this battle this weekend. All I want is to get a new seal on that side as well. Replaced the other one yesterday. That hub came off with no issue. Looks like half of the keyway was blown out though. Will most likely find a clean used set of these. Espeacilly after busting out half of the threads on two lug holes on the stuck one. GRRRRR!!? 

8 minutes ago, bmsgaffer said:

I cant tell if the one above is or not, but if you can find a fine threaded nut and bolt for the center that would be best. If you have any around you check Fastenal, the bigger stores can be well stocked. 

 

I'm going to a place called Kitts Industrial Tools. They have SO much stuff. Was by here the other day and totally forgot about them. Serched on craigslist and called them not knowing it was them until I asked for a name. ha ha. Cool. They have the bolts in grade 8 and the nuts and washers in grade 5. It's dirt cheap too. Family owned for a long time. They will most likely be the place that I build my snow thrower lift pole with.    

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pfrederi
11 minutes ago, bmsgaffer said:

I cant tell if the one above is or not, but if you can find a fine threaded nut and bolt for the center that would be best. If you have any around you check Fastenal, the bigger stores can be well stocked. 

I agree fine would be better (actually an acme thread would be best, what they use for center crews in most pullers).

 

I went with NC because I wanted it fully Threaded.  Fully threaded NF $12.06 Each  Ouch!!

Edited by pfrederi
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Duramax7man7

YIKES on that price. But it's better than $50-$75 for a new hub. ;)

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squonk

 

i made this puller out of 3/8 plate doubled up. 7/16" fine bolts threaded into the lug holes with nuts behind then against the hub surface for extra strength. (not shown)    2 7/8 fine nuts welded together for a large thread area to pull with. And a 7/8 threaded rod for a force screw with another nut welded on the end for the impact to drive. All hardware came from McMaster-Carr

 

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Duramax7man7

Okay here is my progress.... OMGsh... She fought me to the last twist of the nuts. Man alive!? NOW to get the woodruff key out.. smh.

 

Any suggestions? Ive tried a little. heated the axle a bit. no go. 

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lynnmor

Using a brass or aluminum punch, tap the back end of the key down so as to raise the front.  Then you should be able to continue raising the front with a punch and hammer.  Whatever you do, don't mushroom the key and drive that mushroom down into the slot.  Keep soaking it with PB Blaster.

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Duramax7man7

11pm and SUCCESS!!!!! 3hours of clamping the axle at the base after pulling it all of the way out, using a 7/8" nut held by a pair of pliers (which I broke one pair). Then placing a spacer (I used a wood chisel as it was all I had that was the right width but a piece of bar stock wouldve worked well) behind the woodruff key to stop the axle again from moving back and risking the opposite sides internal retaining clip, as I used a masonry hammer sideways and wacked that with my framing hammer! 

YEAH, I dont have a ton a tools but make due with what I got. ;o)

This key was stuck just as badly as the hub itself.... 

 

Anyway, yes I mushroomed the end of the axle a bit even though I used a large nut to smack instead of directly hitting the axle. BUT I said the heck with it, "Im not letting this key own me". So I did what I needed to and owned the key AND Axle. Use a flat file and made her all nice a straight again and finished up with some emery cloth. I made a mess but got it out and cleaned it all up. I even cleaned out the key slot with some emery cloth and cleaned her out. Its not a masterpiece finish but Im sure it will do. Photos below. 

 

 

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