Steve NW WI 39 #1 Posted October 15, 2016 Hi all, been a while since I've posted here, but some of the info here came in handy lately. Here's what me and my B80 have been up to, in pictures. The wiring harness was a mess of wire nuts, quick connects and other such ugliness. I wanted to put an electric fuel pump on to replace the dead mechanical one, but the wiring was too ugly, even for me. I labeled everything to prevent CRS issues later, tore it (almost) all off, and brought it in to the workbench. I made a bunch of new wires, all terminals soldered and heat shrunk. I checked out all connections as best I could on the bench. Mostly connected wiring back on the tractor: Harness tidied up a bit, not quite done but close. I ran into some other minor issues along the way, but it's back in the land of the living. Hope pics and video embed works. I have way more time and $ into this than it's worth, but I have enough leftovers to rewire my old M Farmall and any other projects that come along. Plus, the satisfaction of knowing that everything works and will continue to work for years to come is worth it. 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 24,118 #2 Posted October 15, 2016 Nice job! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,888 #3 Posted October 15, 2016 Bravo. It looks like you did it the right way. I have seen so many hodgepodge wiring jobs on these old gals, it's amazing they even run. And when they don't, it's a nightmare to trace a circuit. The best thing about the B's and C's of that era is the simplicity of the wiring. Great job. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve NW WI 39 #4 Posted October 15, 2016 1 hour ago, rmaynard said: Bravo. It looks like you did it the right way. I have seen so many hodgepodge wiring jobs on these old gals, it's amazing they even run. And when they don't, it's a nightmare to trace a circuit. The best thing about the B's and C's of that era is the simplicity of the wiring. Great job. Thanks guys. I do have to admit, there are 2 things that aren't right. I need a ground cable yet, the 10ga homemade job was a get by till I get one next time I go to Fleet Farm. Also, don't tell the safety police, but there are no safety switches in my diagram. "Safety by Darwin", I hate lawyer induced complexity, and I'll be the only driver. Maybe I need to make a stainless "Start at your own risk" dashboard cover at work... New tubes in the back tires and a seat and it'll be ready to work again. 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,888 #5 Posted October 15, 2016 I like the concept of the clutch safety switch for several reasons. Among them is the fact that I generally leave my transmission in gear when I stop the tractor. I have an 857 which doesn't have a safety switch. Numerous times I have hopped on it and hit the starter only to be propelled forward or backward from not depressing the clutch. You may be the only driver, but someone could be behind you or dart in front of you while starting, and if the unit is in gear or the clutch not depressed, the end result could be less than desirable. Just sayin' 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 24,118 #6 Posted October 15, 2016 PTO, seat and clutch safety switches do make sense to me and really are not that big a hassle. I am not a big fan of our lawyer induced nonsense either, but I am interested in keeping my toes, fingers and those of my kids... Big difference in my mind between seeking quick money based on stupidity and true liability due to poor / unsafe design... It's all about balance - reasonable safety without unreasonable hassle or lack of function... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #7 Posted October 15, 2016 That is the way I like to do it....solder and heat shrink. I even bought a bunch of the "Packard 56 (I think 56)" connectors and the original color and gauge of wires! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve NW WI 39 #8 Posted October 18, 2016 While the safety concerns are noted and appreciated, I'm a guy who grew up on 1940s-50s era farm tractors. It was drilled into me and automatic anymore to check trans in neutral, PTO off, and clutch disengaged before hitting the starter. This rig had them all removed (or maybe never had them? It's a 77 model.) so I didn't actually disable them, I just had the knowhow to add them and chose not to. I'm not one to take off or disable any working safety stuff, I can appreciate most of it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midpack 804 #9 Posted October 18, 2016 On 10/15/2016 at 7:09 AM, rmaynard said: The best thing about the B's and C's of that era is the simplicity of the wiring. LOL, I tend to disagree... nothing about Toro/Wheelhorse wiring is simple... I have 2, 1980 C-175's. one (hydro) has color coded wiring, the other (8 speed) has all black wiring with little numbers on it. WHAAAAAA?!?!?!?!? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve NW WI 39 #10 Posted October 18, 2016 2 hours ago, midpack said: LOL, I tend to disagree... nothing about Toro/Wheelhorse wiring is simple... I have 2, 1980 C-175's. one (hydro) has color coded wiring, the other (8 speed) has all black wiring with little numbers on it. WHAAAAAA?!?!?!?!? Perhaps the second one was someone else's rewire job? I didn't follow the schematic completely with the correct colors (my wiring bin was short a couple of colors), but they're identifiable enough. I did label everything when I took it off, at each end and every splice, and that helped a lot. I also had a notebook right there and was making notes. My "mind like a steel trap" still works, but sometimes things get stuck in the trap and won't come back out without a little help these days. I forgot to mention in the first post, I put in a new ignition switch, light switch and ammeter. I get discharge when cranking or lights are on, but no charge. I need to take the multimeter out and see if it's the stator or reg/rectifier's fault yet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
