Bearing plate removal

[Joeyd 35]

Hey guys,

 

K321-

Tearing down the engine for a rebuild. I got the flywheel off without a problem. How about the bearing plate? I took the 4 bolts out that hold it on but I can't get it off. What's the trick?

 

its my first engine rebuild so bare with my newb questions. There will be more coming for sure 

 

thanks!

[oldredrider 2,547]

Using a rubber mallet, tap on the bearing plate all the way around. The crank bearing is holding it tight. Tapping the plate will loosen it up.

[953 nut 51,539]

I have never had any problem removing the bearing plate, once the rod is free of the crank just a light tap with a rubber hammer on the output side of the crank should be enough to remoe the crank and plate.

Kohler_Guide_To_Engine_Rebuilding_19890900.pdf

[Joeyd 35]

Tried that, no such luck! 

[SPINJIM 1,978]

There is a gasket under the bearing plate that can become like glue if it's old and caked with old dry oil.   That, plus the grip of the crank shaft bearing, can make it more difficult than expected to pry the plate off.   As long as you make sure you have all of the bolts out, it just takes some persuasion.   Have you removed the oil pan from the block?   

   Jim

[Joeyd 35]

13 minutes ago, SPINJIM said:

There is a gasket under the bearing plate that can become like glue if it's old and caked with old dry oil.   That, plus the grip of the crank shaft bearing, can make it more difficult than expected to pry the plate off.   As long as you make sure you have all of the bolts out, it just takes some persuasion.   Have you removed the oil pan from the block?   

   Jim

I have not removed the oil pan yet. I have been following the sevice manuals instructions on disassembly. Think it will help if I take that off now?

[SPINJIM 1,978]

13 minutes ago, Joeyd said:

I have not removed the oil pan yet. I have been following the sevice manuals instructions on disassembly. Think it will help if I take that off now?

 

It would give you access to the piston rod.  If you disconnect that, it might loosen the crank shaft so that you can tap the PTO end to loosen the bearing plate (as 953 nut said).  Also, then tap on the inside of the bearing plate to help loosen it.  Easy does it, but work on any area where it might help to loosen it.  Might shoot some WD-40 around the crank seals as well.   Make sure there is no rust or burrs on the crank shaft that might keep the seals and bearings from sliding off.   

[rmaynard 14,865]

Why not use the same puller that you used to pull the flywheel?

 

[Joeyd 35]

37 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

Why not use the same puller that you used to pull the flywheel?

 

I thought of that but the holes on the bearing plate aren't threaded. The bolts go through and thread into the block and there's no way to bring the bolt in from the back side. Unless I'm totally missing something like another threaded hole that I could use. 

[Shynon 7,435]

Take off the oil pan, and the head, disconnect the connecting rod from the crankshaft. Push the piston out the top. Now tap on the end of the crankshaft with a dead blow hammer, sometimes the bearing plate will stick to the crankshaft so the crank will come out with the bearing plate attatched to it.

[rmaynard 14,865]

7 hours ago, Joeyd said:

I thought of that but the holes on the bearing plate aren't threaded. The bolts go through and thread into the block and there's no way to bring the bolt in from the back side. Unless I'm totally missing something like another threaded hole that I could use. 

I don't recall seeing a big block bearing plate that wasn't threaded. Hmm. Are you sure it's not just a larger size bolt you need?

[Anglo Traction 759]

8 hours ago, Joeyd said:

I thought of that but the holes on the bearing plate aren't threaded. The bolts go through and thread into the block and there's no way to bring the bolt in from the back side. Unless I'm totally missing something like another threaded hole that I could use. 

 

I believe the Puller/Plate removal procedure shown in the Manual may refer to the use of the 2 Bolt holes on the horizontal plane that secures the Stator Plate.

Should be threaded 10-24.

Normally strong enough to part the Bearing Plate from the Crankcase, but if yours is stuck tight, it may be best to tighten the Puller up and gently bump the Pto end of the Crank to assist the seal break.      

[rmaynard 14,865]

My mistake.  Memory doesn't serve me as well as it used to. Those holes are 10-24. The drawing from the manual does not indicate what engine they are showing.