Question about "shaker plate" engine mounts

[RJ Hamner 992]

Getting closer to the finish of my C-121 project and need some input.

Costs aside, Wheel Horse uses rubber anti vibration mounts for the shaker plate.  I ran across A-1 Millers website while doing some research on K-301 engine and he makes SOLID mounts to replace the rubber ones.

At first I thought that the vibration would be excessive. But, there is always a But.  I also just bought a Raider 12 ( its waiting its turn to get overhauled) whose K-301 is mounted directly to the frame.  The vibrations are not all that bad.

So I guess I am looking for some input as to using the solid mounts or the OEM rubber mounts

[pacer 3,159]

I find the shakers to be perfectly alright ---- IF the rubber/mounts are in good condition - which is often times isnt the case

 

As far as Millers web site, unless there have been some changes you cant/wont get a response there, dang shame too, he had a lot of good stuff.

[RJ Hamner 992]

I just talked to them a couple of hours ago???????

[Don1977 604]

Bolt it down solid all the older ones and the 300, 400, and 500 series were solid mounted.

[Racinbob 10,276]

There's a reason they didn't keep those mounts long. I had one and made solid spacers for it. I never had an issue with vibration except with that one.....until I made it solid.

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

I have not run an apples to apples comparison, but I feel there are slightly less vibrations in the rubber mounted versions. I don't know if its significant though. I actually think they shake a bit more at idle and start up/shutdown, but the isolators really help at full throttle. 

 

To be fair, I have always noticed that the hood hinges on my blackhoods are less worn then the solid mounted singles I have come across. That could be entirely by chance though and has no real basis.

 

I still don't know if i am going to drop over a hundred bucks on them when I go to redo my C-105/165 or put the money towards the never-need-replacing solid mounts...

[JoeM 7,625]

I installed steel squares and welded. I have done two c145's no issues. Vibration was less resident solid mounted.

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

2 hours ago, Racinbob said:

There's a reason they didn't keep those mounts long. I had one and made solid spacers for it. I never had an issue with vibration except with that one.....until I made it solid.

 

                                                                                  

                             SHAKER  plates.....that's what the do.

   

[RJ Hamner 992]

Thanks for all the input.  Guess I'll try the solids.

The man said if I didn't like them to send them back for a refund (minus s&h)

[Retired Wrencher 4,876]

14 hours ago, Racinbob said:

There's a reason they didn't keep those mounts long. I had one and made solid spacers for it. I never had an issue with vibration except with that one.....until I made it solid.

I agree with Racinbob. To me they are power robbers. I had a C-141 with them wasted power.

[ronhatch 405]

On my C-101, I threw out the shaker plate and replaced it with 4, 3/4" high round spacers between the engine block and the frame. Of course, I had to make a new anchor for the vertical clutch arm which I bolted to the frame and a new support bracket for the muffler which bolted to the engine block Simple enough.

 

Edited September 29, 2016 by ronhatch

[MalMac 1,328]

I have never really measured the thickness of the rubber mounts. How thick are you making the solid spacers?

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

23 hours ago, ronhatch said:

On my C-101, I threw out the shaker plate and replaced it with 4, 3/4" high round spacers between the engine block and the frame. Of course, I had to make a new anchor for the vertical clutch arm which I bolted to the frame and a new support bracket for the muffler which bolted to the engine block Simple enough.

 

Did you consider leaving the engine bolted to the shaker plate and bolting the plate to the frame with  1/2" thick spacers?

Seems all you need to do is drill four bolt holes in the plate and frame and add the spacers. The original clutch arm and muffler support would be preserved.

The  unused upturned parts of the plate could be cut off to make the assembly look neater.  

[RJ Hamner 992]

I don't know yet. Since I don't have access to a lathe I was going to buy a set from Brian Miller.

There wasn't a whole lot left of the originals

10 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Did you consider leaving the engine bolted to the shaker plate and bolting the plate to the frame with  1/2" thick spacers?

Seems all you need to do is drill four bolt holes in the plate and frame and add the spacers. The original clutch arm and muffler support would be preserved.

The  unused upturned parts of the plate could be cut off to make the assembly look neater.  

That's pretty much what I had planned on.  The ones from Miller are a direct swap for the rubber ones so no cutting/welding required

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

Well, I was actually thinking....remove the tapered mounting blocks from the frame and bolt the shaker  plate directly to the frame by drilling four new holes in the flat part of the shaker plate and tractor  frame rails.  You would need 1/2" spacer blocks to put the engine at the correct elevation.     

[RJ Hamner 992]

4 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Well, I was actually thinking....remove the tapered mounting blocks from the frame and bolt the shaker  plate directly to the frame by drilling four new holes in the flat part of the shaker plate and tractor  frame rails.  You would need 1/2" spacer blocks to put the engine at the correct elevation.     

That would work real well

But when you consider how much I have spent so far (thankfully the wife doesn't follow Red Square) another $50 is nothing

In addition now that I have the plate looking so "purdy" I don't want to drill a hole in it!

[TDF5G 2,051]

Does anyone have any pics of the solid mounts or conversions that can be shared here?  

Thanks

[RJ Hamner 992]

10 minutes ago, TDF5G said:

Does anyone have any pics of the solid mounts or conversions that can be shared here?  

Thanks

 

[TDF5G 2,051]

Thank you, sir.   

 

I've got a C-120 torn down for overhaul and the mounts are bad.  I've not decided what to do yet. 

Edited September 30, 2016 by TDF5G

[midpack 804]

I put a Magnum 12 from a 300 on a C-175 (blown rod) machine, bolted directly to the frame, no mounts. works fine

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

7 hours ago, RJ Hamner said:

 

But when you consider how much I have spent so far (thankfully the wife doesn't follow Red Square)

Reminds me of my biggest fear.....

When I die and Mrs K sells all my toys for what I told her I paid for them.

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

6 hours ago, RJ Hamner said:

 

Where can you buy those and how much? Thanks,

 

Glenn

[RJ Hamner 992]

3 minutes ago, JERSEYHAWG / Glenn said:

Where can you buy those and how much? Thanks,

 

Glenn

http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/a1miller.htm

Scroll almost all the way down (everything is on one page)

He makes them for Cub Cadets as well as Wheel Horse

$40 without hardware $50 with

Bob

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

1 hour ago, RJ Hamner said:

http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/a1miller.htm

Scroll almost all the way down (everything is on one page)

He makes them for Cub Cadets as well as Wheel Horse

$40 without hardware $50 with

Bob

 

Thank you for mentioning the availability for Cub Cadets. This is half the price of OEM rubber mounts from the Local Cub Cadet Dealer.

[ronhatch 405]

My local machine shop turned 4 solid steel spacers that are 3/4" high (thick) x 1 1/2" OD X 3/8" ID for $10 bucks.

I used the shaker plate as a pattern to locate and drill the 4  new holes needed in the frame for the engine and spacers. Nice and neat with no unneeded parts!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

i

Edited October 1, 2016 by ronhatch