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Cadmandu

Hi Range in reverse downhill

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I do not think you broke anything you just meed to understand what an open differential does.  If both wheels are in the air turning one wheel will result in the other wheel turning the opposite direction.  If it is in gear you will be able to turn one hub freely but if you try to turn both at the same time it will stop. 

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:text-yeahthat:

 

It sounds like you did not break anything at all. 

 

If you turn one hub, the other hub SHOULD turn the opposite direction with little to no resistance.

 

Try this: sit behind tractor (everything off, key out, parking brake off) with it IN gear. Try spinning both hubs at the same time in the same direction, you will be unable to move them (unless you are an absolute hulk then you have a chance of cranking the engine over).

 

Now put the transmission in neutral, and do the same thing. You should be able to turn them both the same direction but it will require a bit more effort because you are spinning the gears in the transmission (you will probably hear them spinning) but not the transmission input pulley (because you are in neutral).

 

And if you dont want to try any of those things I will bet good money that you can slap the tires back on, put her on the ground and she will work just as you expect her to. :handgestures-thumbupright:

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When I put the jacks under the axle and put it in 1st gear low range the right wheel was held by the transmission after removing the tire with my impact driver and went over and took the other tire off it is not in gear anymore and can't be put back in.

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Could you possibly take a video of this for us? I am not quite understanding what happened here. Can you not shift it into gear with the shifter? Or will it feel like its in gear but not go anywhere?

 

Can you take her off the stands and give it a try that way? Like i said sometimes the high-low shifter will give you fits because it doesnt get used very often by a lot of owners. 

 

Sometimes these tractors wont go into gear easily, so did you try starting it before putting it into gear? That can gey the input gear and the oil spinning and make it easier to go into gear. 

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I sure hope so i am about sick thinking i hurt my horse and i want to spend alot of money on her and make it look really nice. I got all new decals coming and some 520H 8 1/2 wide rims. I did try turning the hubs both at the same time in gear and they locked up in the same direction. Also if you spin one the other goes in the other direction. I will try the nuetral thing in a few minutes.

Thanks for all your help. I got wheel weights, chains and a 3 x 4 x 16" dump trailer also.

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2 hours ago, Cadmandu said:

I sure hope so i am about sick thinking i hurt my horse and i want to spend alot of money on her and make it look really nice. I got all new decals coming and some 520H 8 1/2 wide rims. I did try turning the hubs both at the same time in gear and they locked up in the same direction. Also if you spin one the other goes in the other direction. I will try the nuetral thing in a few minutes.

Thanks for all your help. I got wheel weights, chains and a 3 x 4 x 16" dump trailer also.

 

 

That is exactly how it should happen. I do not think you broke anything

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Good news all is well. I did some yard work tonigt. I do have a questio about why I have a right hub with a boss for the rim and the left hub is flat. Also is my wheel weight sticking out to far? They are 70 lbs. Thanks for guiding me I will be a paying member for a long time. pics later

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34 minutes ago, Cadmandu said:

Good news all is well. I did some yard work tonigt. I do have a questio about why I have a right hub with a boss for the rim and the left hub is flat. Also is my wheel weight sticking out to far? They are 70 lbs. Thanks for guiding me I will be a paying member for a long time. pics later

 

Glad to hear it

 

One hub may have been replaced. While you have the wheels off, be sure to make sure the set-screws are tight from the hubs to the axles, and make sure the hubs seem tightly locked to the axles in all directions. Sometimes there are keyway issues (as what may be evidence of a previous repair with you having two different hubs) from owners forgetting to keep these tight. Easiest to check and deal with while the wheels are off. 

 

Weights sticking out too far is just a matter of your preference, I like flush but as long as you remember they are there you will be OK. And the 520 rims are a bit deeper and will help with that. Just be sure that you use ALL 4 bolt holes for those 70lb weights and make sure that the weight sits in the rim well so you arent stressing the bolts or wheels too much. 

 

Sounds like you are doing well here! :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Yes, you guys are great and very helpful. I am looking for the 50 lb Bolens weights so they will be flush. Should both hubs have the boss? I have 1" axles

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When you check the hub set screws, tighten the the set screw - but just snug the lock nut tight. If you over tighten the lock nut it will draw the set screw out away from the axle.

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2 hours ago, Cadmandu said:

Yes, you guys are great and very helpful. I am looking for the 50 lb Bolens weights so they will be flush. Should both hubs have the boss? I have 1" axles

 

As for the hubs they don't have to. The newer ones have the boss i think some of the older ones do not. 

 

Take a look around. The wheel horse cast iron weights also sit nearly flush (as do many others), but they can sometimes cost more. 

 

Heres a picture of the bolens 55lb ones I have, and this is on the smaller 7.5" wide rim:

wb_2015-02-08 17.53.55.jpg

 

And here are the cast iron wheel horse weights (not my tractor):

1239888305.jpg

 

I also have a small stack of suitcase weights that I hope to make a bracket for sometime here to hang off the back for extra bite when the ice is a problem. 

 

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Those are really nice looking tractors. Your C145 is that a 14 HP?

I'm going to get some 50 lb flush mount if i can. People here are buying up wheel weights like crazy. I dont like mounting 70 lbs either. My hubs have two set screws with 1/4 sq heads no lock nuts. The LS hub is .812 thick no boss the RS is 1/2" thick with a 3 1/8 dia boss. I like the boss easier to mount. My backset is 1 5/8 and has a 7" width. I am so glad my horse is okay. I must sound a little slow but that scared me. Thanks for all your help.

back to work.JPG

LS Flush Hub 812 thick.JPG

RS Hub 500 thick.JPG

weight profile.JPG

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Yep that C-145 was 14hp. I sold it though. I have another black hood (C-105 I grew up with) that I am putting a 16hp engine on to make it a C-165 8-speed. 

 

That left side hub looks to me like it is the original hub that has a spacer plate on it maybe (see the threads dont start right away)? I've never seen anything like that, anyone else seen that before?

 

And I'm glad your horse is OK too. Don't worry about what you sound like, everyone here had to start somewhere and we are all here to help each other. :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

Be patient on those weights and stay vigilant on CL and on the classifieds here. You will find a set before winter. The 55lb ones can be shipped via the USPS flat-rate boxes for about $17 each, that's how I got most of mine. The boxes get pretty beat up but you can't beat the price!

 

 

 

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Good catch I will knock that off tonight. What did you get for the C-145?

Putting on a new fuel filter tonight also. All the fluids have been changed and all 8 zerks have been greased.

If my 37" deck and bagger system does not pick up leaves well I will be selling both in the spring and getting a 42" deck will it fit my 89 312-8?

What year decks should I look for?

Can I install the larger front spindles and go with the 8" wheels after I upgrade to the 42?

I want 23 x 10.5 on the rear and 8" spindles with 8" rims on the front.

all trails on the back and V61 on the front

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39 minutes ago, Cadmandu said:

Good catch I will knock that off tonight. What did you get for the C-145?

Can't even remember! I love my blackhoods but I just run out of space. 

Putting on a new fuel filter tonight also. All the fluids have been changed and all 8 zerks have been greased.

If my 37" deck and bagger system does not pick up leaves well I will be selling both in the spring and getting a 42" deck will it fit my 89 312-8?

Yep, it will fit your 312! A 48 will technically fit too, but you might struggle on horsepower. It all depends on how thick or tall your grass gets. I will bet your 37" deck does pretty good with the leaves though.

What year decks should I look for?

Any deck from a C series, 300, 400 or 500 series will fit from 1973-2005 (Just be careful in those years to look out for decks made for the smaller tractors or the XI series, they will not fit)

Can I install the larger front spindles and go with the 8" wheels after I upgrade to the 42?

You can do that any time as long as you arent planning on running a 37" deck, yep. 

I want 23 x 10.5 on the rear and 8" spindles with 8" rims on the front.

all trails on the back and V61 on the front

 

 

Se my notes above. That will be a good looking rig!:handgestures-thumbupright:

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It took an hour to mount a 70 wheel weight. I think I like it just the way it is. Now i know why people sell their horse with shoes.

 

 

weights.JPG

Edited by Cadmandu
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Might be getting a set of 8" spindles and wheels for my Cub Cadet a trade for the wheels that I bought that had the wrong backset.

Why do the wheels hit the 37 deck and not the 42"

 

Edited by Cadmandu

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3 hours ago, Cadmandu said:

Might be getting a set of 8" spindles and wheels for my Cub Cadet a trade for the wheels that I bought that had the wrong backset.

Why do the wheels hit the 37 deck and not the 42"

 

 

I dont know if Toro made this deck or if they bought it from someone, but almost all tach-a-matic WH decks are three blade, and the center blade is out front and the two outside blades (the ones in line with the wheels) trail behind a bit. The 37" deck is a two blade deck, so you have to choose one to be out front of the other (to allow for hte overlap needed to not leave a streak of uncut grass), and thus one of them is close to the front wheel. 

Edited by bmsgaffer

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Okay I can see that now. Did wheel horse make a bagger system for the 42 or 48" deck?

I was wondering about my engine serial number and the year of my horse. The M12s has a serial 1911409203 and a type 471527.

I used this to fine the year of my horse which would be 1989. If this engine was manufactured in 89 then it could have been used in an early 90 is this possible. I have the two gauges and the idiot lights was that used on the 90's. I had no decals so I heard that Toro put their name on the WH starting in 1990

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I bought the above spindles now i have some questions about rims. I want to mount 16 x 6.5 x 8 tires.

Do i look for a 6.5 wide and 8" dia rim with a 3/4 shaft bearing

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Thanks for the direction. I just spent 264.00 to upgrade the front end of my 89 312-8. It cost me 850.00 two weeks ago.

Here is what i spent on it since.

1) 250.00 like new 48" snow plow

2) 60.00 for new decals from redo

3) 150.00 for a pair of 70 lb wheel weights and chains

4) 117.00 for a pair of 6 ply 5 rib V61's 16 x 6.50 x 8 tires

5) 37.00 for two tubes for the above tires

6) 75.00 for a pair of 8" rims used

7) 35.00 for a pair of HD 8" spindles

 

I don't have my 8.5 wide 23" rims yet or new 23 x 9.50 x 12 tires, and probably will need rubber chains.

I sure hope it snows this year. Do you need special rims for tube tires, hope not.

 

857 spindles.jpg

image001.jpg

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No special rims for tubes.  How wide are the front rims in your picture?

 

Incidentally rims are measured from inside of flange to inside of flange

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He said that they had 6.50 x 8 tires on them. He gave me these instead same price 75.00 shipped. He said that the set he first showed me was not a matched set one with a bearing and one with a bushing. So now i get tires with them that hold air.

unnamed.jpg

unnamedk.jpg

Edited by Cadmandu

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