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Power steering

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Mith

It is possible that they are connected the wrong way round. You probably would get some steering effect.

You could just disconnect the mystery lines from the valve, fire it up an see which one fluid comes out of. You wont have to run it for long to figure it out. Obviously, the one that fluid comes out of is the pressure line. be real careful if you decide to go that route though, it can get real messy and possibly dangerous, so I'll leave it up to you if you want to try that.

You probably need to find some specs on the flow output of your transmission if it is indeed connected up correctly.

Incidentally, you need a pressure relief valve in the pressure line to the power steering valve if your trans doesn't have one integrated.

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Ian928

Thank you Mith, I will try to disconnect the two lines tomorrow and run the engine on the starter only to see wich one fluid comes from. Randy (Username 49R Operator) told me that the A port was the pressure line because it goes to the Relief valve, so it should have one. I can tell you that when the lift cylinder reaches its enpoint I can hear a sound that reminds me of when you keep turning a car power steering over at full lock, is that the sound of a pressure relief valve?

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Mith

If the relief valve is in the lift cylinder valve block then it will not be protecting the steering valve. You will need an additional pressure relief valve in the pressure line going to the steering valve.

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Ian928

Aha, I thought the relief valve was in the pump/trans! That was the way I understood it from the other thread. Ok, so it is sure the steering valve does not have this built in?

Edit: I searhed the net and found this: http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/318_322_3...ice(SM2753).pdf

It clearly say that this steering valve needs a relief valve to function, so if the relief valve is in the lift valve and not in the trans we need this also... It is beginning to be a bit tight on space down there now!

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Ian928

Today we switched ports, aaaaaaaaaaaaaand success!! :thumbs::whistle::dunno:

It is like driving a different tractor, we can now steer one-handed with the steering ball like nothing at all. Also gone is the slack in the steering from the old steering box and all the joints leading to the wheels. I can really recommend this for other owners of D-series tractors out there! I am looking forward to the next snowfall now!

:thanks:to everybody that helped us along, especially Randy and Mith!

I will take some pictures of brackets and lines and so on and post as a reference here for anybody wishing to do something similar.

We still need to fit a releif valve though, we couldn't resist driving it today without it, hopefully we did no wrong :whistle:

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Mith

I'm glad its working :thumbs: Power steering really is great!

As far as the relief valve goes, you need to get one ASAP if it isnt protected atall.

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Operator

I'm glad it worked Ian, I've been watching both threads but figured I would converse on the other one to avoid any confussion. I would trow in a Smiley saying "we want pictures" but I don't have all the smileys up. You don't get much for snow in your area do you?

Randy

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HarleyMan46929

"It is like driving a different tractor, we can now steer one-handed with the steering ball like nothing at all. Also gone is the slack in the steering from the old steering box and all the joints leading to the wheels. I can really recommend this for other owners of D-series tractors out there!"

Ian,

I've been reading your power steering entries here on RS, and I'll have to admit, I have been wanting to add power steering on my 1975 D-180

Wheel Horse. I have a 5' mid-mount mower, 48" snowblower, and the 56" snow/dirt/gravel blade for the front. The Snow-blower is heavy, so I am definitely glad I don't have to lift it manually, however steering would sure be a heck of a lot easier....no matter what I'm using it for.

If you could give me a ball-park figure of what it cost to add the power steering to your D-200, (even if you use your currency, I can find a conversion website here on the Web), it would give me an idea of what I can possibly expect to spend on putting power steering on my D-180.

Also, do you have any way to add pictures of your project, so we may see how the power steering column is supported/braced on a D-series Wheel Horse? I seem to learn better with pictures than printed words.

HarleyMan46929

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Operator

:whistle: Norway! I thought you were in England someplace, That's why I asked about snow. :thumbs:

Randy

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Ian928

Mith, I will look into getting the releif valve on there quick. I guess I can put two T-pieces on pressure and return from the pump and put it between them? Or should it be placed between the lines going to the cylinder? And, I guess they come with different pressure settings, is this important or is it more to avoid "very high" pressure?

Randy, I will post pictures in a while! As for snow, I live by the coast so we can get a lot of snow a few times a year. Of course, we had lots of snow during the 2 weeks the D-200 was in the garage :thumbs:

Harleyman, I think we paid about $200 on Ebay for the valve and cylinder. Mith told me I should try to get them complete with hydraulic lines, but I managed to loose that auction, and that was stupid because I had them made locally and it was shockingly expensive (about $450!! But remember everything is much more expensive here in Norway). If you get the valve and cylinder complete with lines, you will need some lines made up anyway, and as Mith tells me, you need a releif valve and some lines on top of that so I would estimate about $500 for the parts you need?

I will post pictures, but I can tell you that we used two simple steel bars to fit the steering column. These bars bolted to the two channels along the tractor body that the standard steering column and everything is connected to. It was not hard to fabricate.

And you probably have read that even the original steering wheel fits?

By far the easiest setup would be to place the cylinder alongside the tractor to work on the steering relay between the front wheels. This was not practical for us (the relay was damaged and worn).

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Mith

Ian, the pressure relief valve will go in the line that goes from the trans (pressure) into the steering valve. You will have to break the line, and splice the relief valve in. A pressure relief valve has 3 ports, pressure in, pressure out and return.

You can just tee the return line from the relief valve into the return line to the trans.

Most are adjustable, as long as the pressure of the pressure relief valve is below the pressure rating of the steering valve and the pump you will be fine.

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Ian928

This is a picture I took before we switched lines, so bevare the T-piece is now on the other port on the pump.

The brackets are in fact some generic stuff I bought at a hardware store. As you can see we removed some material to be able to place the holes for the cylinder in the middle of the bracket. We placed some nuts between the brackets and the mounting rails on the tractor, one nut about 1/2" under the rearmost bracket and 3 nuts together about 1 1/2" under the front braket. This lifted the column and tilted it so with the panel fitted it now looks like original. I know these brackets are not perfect, and the solution with the nuts are not very nice, but the column feels tight, and the instrument panel supports it at the top. We did cut away the bracket that originally hold the steering column. This was welded to the rear support for the pump so we cut the welds and left that one intact. The bracket was later reworked to become a mount for the hydraulic cylinder :thumbs:

3309503046_24f28850ee_b.jpg

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