DougQT 16 #26 Posted August 22, 2016 Thanks everyone. I'm kind of relieved in a way, because I was on the fence about giving my dad a "rattle-can-rebuild" on someone else's info, vs. just going through the motor myself. I've never done one of these before, but I am familiar with working on cars. If it were an old school 3.0 Chrysler motor I would be fine. I don't have a big enough property to mow, so the last Wheel Horse I spent time on was washing and waxing my dad's c-101 when I was 10 years old 26 years ago. Sorry if the photos are flipped. Not sure how to fix that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DougQT 16 #27 Posted August 27, 2016 (edited) So got the motor out and pulled the pan. It was full of small pieces of connecting rod, but the cam is in tact and the crank journal and cylinder wall are smooth as can be. Does the rod just ride on the crank, or is there a main bearing? Didn't see any in the shrapnel. Looking at ordering the rebuild kit shown earlier in the thread. Should I just get the standard sizes and just hone the cylinder? Everything seems clean. Advice? Edited August 28, 2016 by DougQT 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,767 #28 Posted August 28, 2016 No crank/rod bearing. The aluminum rod rides on the steel crank. You need to verify the crank journal OD and cylinder ID before ordering a new rod and piston. If they are in spec and the surfaces are good, you may get by with standard size parts and no machining. Are you sure there is no aluminum smeared on the crank? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DougQT 16 #29 Posted August 28, 2016 (edited) There is nothing on the crankshaft journal. It is smooth and clean as can be. Cylinder wall is clean and smooth too. Going to hone it and mic it to just to check. I have pics of the crank and cam, but there is some size limit on uploads so I can't post them. Sorry. Thanks for all the help. Edited August 28, 2016 by DougQT 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,656 #30 Posted August 28, 2016 Photo storage is an expense for the web site, to cover these costs a lot of us become supporters, cost is reasonable and allows posting lots of . Just go to the top of the home page and click on "Store/supporter". 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DougQT 16 #31 Posted August 28, 2016 Did not know that, but makes sense. Now a supporter. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodchuckfarmer 333 #32 Posted August 28, 2016 A crank can look good but still be out of round . better measure it to be sure. Wayne 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,967 #33 Posted August 28, 2016 Thank you for becoming a Supporter! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,656 #34 Posted August 28, 2016 now we can look forward to lots of . 5 hours ago, woodchuckfarmer said: crank can look good but still be out of round . better measure it to be sure. When you install the rod it is a good idea to use "plastigauge" to be sure there is proper clearance between the rod and crank. http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thisguyisnew 114 #35 Posted August 29, 2016 Any of you guys know what causes this type of failure? I have a c160 with a very similar story and never figured out why it failed under the previous owner? Just curious Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,767 #36 Posted August 29, 2016 (edited) Low oil level, Dirty oil, and operating on hilly terrain. Edited August 29, 2016 by Ed Kennell 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thisguyisnew 114 #37 Posted August 29, 2016 Don't know if blocked air fins are also a cause but when shroud came off there was tons of mud packed inside them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,656 #38 Posted August 29, 2016 32 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: operating on hilly terrain Bought a parts tractor with a blown motor, seller had always mowed up and down a large sloped lawn for years, his son mowed across it twice and it threw a rod; the splash dipper wasn't getting into the oil with it tilted to the side like that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thisguyisnew 114 #39 Posted August 29, 2016 (edited) I'm of the opinion and I am sure my engine agrees with me that once is enough and we don't want to do that again. Thanks guys Just wanted to clarify. It was the best experience for me getting to work on one. I guess I should thank the previous owner in a way Edited August 29, 2016 by Thisguyisnew Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Callen 64 #40 Posted August 30, 2016 You guys should probably replace all the internal govenor parts while you are in there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DougQT 16 #41 Posted October 17, 2016 Finally getting ready for the full rebuild. Got the master rebuild kit today and the piston dipper was way long. Note in the package that it might be. Ground it down to the length of the original and polished it out. Typical? Any other advise? Honed the cylinder to a nice 45° crosshatch. It is a kit from bats4kids on eBay. Anything else need done? Do you have to file the ring gaps on these? Never done a tractor motor before. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,656 #42 Posted October 17, 2016 4 minutes ago, DougQT said: Do you have to file the ring gaps I have used several of their kits and gaps were good, but you do need to check them before hand to be sure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
