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Valspar IH red opinion

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Detector

I'm looking at paints for my 90 312-H... I've got to tear down, sand and prep everything, I was thinking about spraying the parts with my paint gun but my guns have been setting up for 15 years, not counting having to buy another filter setup and regulator for my compressor so I though about the rattle can route seeing the parts are not large like a automotive hood. I was thinking about Valspar IH Red 12 oz spray cans 5339-01.  I've used some rattle cans that lay down paint quite nice while others didn't. Any opinions on Valspar, I've never used this brand?  6 cans of Valspar runs around $48, Rustoleum Regal Red is about half that price but not sure how they compare as far as durability, oil/gas/chipping...Not trying to make a show tractor but a bit better with some new decals. 

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953 nut

:twocents-02cents:   You already have the spray gun and compressor, for a durable good looking finish I would suggest buying a good acrylic enamel with a hardener. It will lay down better and won't be so humidity dependent on dry time.  Also, remember  :wwp:.

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rmaynard

I found that to do several coats using rattle cans, a typical tractor took me about 15 cans. Then after all that, it took over a month to fully cure. Once dry, it scratched and nicked so easily that I stripped it all off and used acrylic urethane. In my opinion, you might as well do what 953 nut said and use your spray equipment to lay down some acrylic.

 

Don't get me wrong. There are guys who have worked magic with rattle cans,(see @Zeek's 1276) but for me, I only use them for touch-up and small pieces.

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Elkskin's mower junkyard

like stated before sometimes rattle can jobs arent right. i redone a sears with rustoleum paint. for a few days i was really careful due to me knowing the paint wasnt fully cured. then after that its fine. my sears now has a few scratches but hey i use it so it will get scratched lol. we are going with spray gun option for dads wheel horse though.

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Detector

I agree, with the humidity it would take weeks to fully cure, plus I'd get a better finish. Think I'll spray the parts instead. Thanks

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Zeek

I do small stuff with a rattle can.  On the big sheet metal like hoods/fender pans I use this spray gun with an air dryer like this one. I have this air dryer too, but it does not get ALL the moisture/oil out which is a must.

 

I use Rustoleum Regal Red on all mine like Bob said. It's probably a little more prone to chipping, but it's easy to repair and mine sit under covers in a garage when not at shows.

 

And yes go by the label recommendation on humidity/temperature.  If it's too humid you will get a haze in the final look.

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Detector

Spoke with the previous owner yesterday who bought the WH new after inspecting the paint to see what supplies I'll need. I see signs of it having a paint job at one point and he disagreed saying it had never been repainted during his entire ownership or if it did it he was not aware of it. I see where all the decals were masked as well as some areas where the paint flaked and was not feathered and sprayed. Decals should not be below the paint but above IMO. Not a big deal but a bit of extra work

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rmaynard

No doubt in my mind that it's a repaint.

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Detector

I could not tell this guy it was repainted, he was not arguing but was defensive and upset in saying he bought it new and it had never been painted on his clock, only the front was painted black and some deck parts. It was late in the evening when I bought it so I never noticed at the time which was my fault. It's the principle of honesty and not the repaint that bothers me, nothing I can't sand off...

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Detector

Well I'm taking a different route than I expected. Due to some health issues & my schedule I've decided to go with rattle can Valspar for the frame or the brush on quart Valspar so I can do it at my own pace a little here & there without the hassle of mixing paint, cleaning the gun ect plus touch ups will be easy.. I have several cans of Rustoleum Automotive spray primer on hand for enamels and laquer paints but not sure about using it with Alkyd enamels? The frame is actually in great shape with only some flaking and very little rust. I plan on removing the engine and sheet metal in the next week or so and start degreasing and removing the flaking frame paint, I always try to use the proper 3M mask for sanding and a respirator for any painting, not sure if lead based paint was used on a 1990 model, I know auto mfg stopped using it many years ago but not sure about the industrial market, more cautious these days due to respiratory/severe sinus issues.. The uppers, hood, pan ect will be a good quality single stage automotive paint, not sure how well a base/clearcoat would work with the engine heat, hopefully I can get a close match to the Valspar IH red but it's going to be a worker...a better looking worker when done

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