Jump to content
oe espo

86' 312A Power loss under load and hills

Recommended Posts

oe espo

Just got my #26 Carburetor from a notable carburetor builder for my K301S.  Tractor still doing what it did before.  Major power loss under load and especially up hill.  at a loss here.  lots of hours on it.  I didn't check compression yet  Any suggestions appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

Being an"86 model you have a battery ignition system with points, condenser and a coil. Have you replaced the spark plug, condenser and points?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oe espo

Haven't done the points and condenser.  the plug has been changed.  I will look into both. Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell

Do you have a good fuel supply to the new carb?    Pull the line off the carb and secure it in a can to catch the fuel.   Then crank the engine and you should see a good strong spurting of fuel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oe espo

Update:

Fuel looks like its pulsing good.  during pulse hose is full and strong. Started filling a coffee can pretty quick I think.  Compression, cold, 60psi.

Points look a little burnt picture attached

Plug pic attached

Well wont attach!

 

Suggestions?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
14 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Have you replaced the spark plug, condenser and points?

If they don't look good the chances are they are the culprit. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oe espo

All back together.  better but just looses rpm up hill or under heavy load.  catches up after load reduces.  governor?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oe espo

Or hydrostatic problem :confusion-scratchheadblue:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
scotty

Are you running it wide open? The hood on my 416h says it should be ran full throttle for best performance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
16 hours ago, oe espo said:

looses rpm up hill or under heavy load.  catches up after load reduces.

Are we talking a considerable loss of RPM, (from 3600 down to chugging), or loading down and recovering? The governor will respond to load changes, but if you are under a load that requires eight horsepower and the load doubles you can't expect a twelve horse motor to do sixteen horsepower wort of work.

16 hours ago, oe espo said:

back together.

I presume this means a new plug and new points and condenser. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oe espo

Points and condenser are in. Just reset points with timing light to "S" mark. Full throttle 3300rpm with hydro pump disengaged.  Drops about 250 rpm when engaged.  Idles at 1650. Not against throttle screw?  drops to 2500 2600 up grade with pto on.  once on top.  if you stop on brake rpm will slowly climb back up. mowing level drops to 2800 rpm cutting 3/4" of grass off.  so 3400 I think is the the book governed speed and I'm getting 2800  this is a 312 a with converted Eton 700 to 1100 transmission from a 416 

Test

Edited by oe espo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oe espo

Ok now for the dumb question.  when taking out the plug. Is that the top of the piston that you see????  my screwdriver only move up and down less than an inch:confusion-scratchheadblue:. How could it run if the rod is broke or what am I mising here?

:

Edited by oe espo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oe espo

OK. I'm a :deadhorse:.  it's not an OHV V8.

So I took the shroud off.  Found the "T" mark.  Hooked up my leak down tester.  Got 78% out the exhaust.  Rotated 360 to mark and got 100% out the carb.  another 360 and 78%out the exhaust.  Burnt exhaust valve?  Any suggestions appreciated.  Thanks Rob

Edited by oe espo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

It probaly wouldn't hurt to pull the head and check, specially if the tractor has a quite a few hours under the belt. clean the head check the cylinder walls valves & seats etc. while your at it. Does new oil seem to get dirty fast?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
TimH

I have the same problem Mine was a burned ex valve Got a new one for 21.00 laped them in adjusted and all good to go. When you pull the head you will know right away/

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oe espo

Just got done pulling the head.  pulled the valves.  Maybe you would call it a burnt valve.  it only has a couple of contact "shiny" spots. Looks like some carbon was keeping it stuck open.  The exhaust stem is also very loose in the guide compared to the intake. But probably gets more clearance anyway but still seems out of tolerance. Piston is marked STD. Although she got some miles on her, I can't do a bottom end right now.  can a guide be replaced on the tractor?

 

Whys the trick to uploading pics?  Do I have to delete pictures from old posts??  says 0.02 MB max total size.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
5 minutes ago, oe espo said:

Do I have to delete pictures from old posts

Becoming a supporter will solve that problem and is a great way to say :thanks: to the members who have been trying to help solve your engine problems. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oe espo

You can see the burnt carbon. I scraped. Of but didn't touch the seat.  What do you guys think?

WIN_20160726_185112.JPG

WIN_20160726_190412.JPG

WIN_20160726_185137.JPG

WIN_20160726_183530.JPG

WIN_20160726_190430.JPG

WIN_20160726_190451.JPG

:

 

Cylinder walls look good.  carbon was pretty thick

WIN_20160726_183610.JPG

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

Looks like a new valve is in order.       :text-coolphotos:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
woodchuckfarmer

Id say do a valve job while its apart.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

I'd say just clean it up and button it back up if this is your main worker but plan on a full go thru when you can. Valve job motor should be completely taken  down for other measurements and what not. When I do valve guides I do a little porting just because its cheap and it really brings out a few more ponys. Std pistons on an older motor might mean out of round so check that too.

 

Btw yer name looks cherry in RED!!...thanks. ...helps keep the coach from having to resort to ads to keep the lights on.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oe espo

Anyone else see what I'm seeing?

WIN_20160726_211315.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oe espo

The piston is starting to melt in the last picture right at the exhaust. 

UPDATE:

Intake valve truer up nice.  You can see the exhaust warped.  guide is bad, or feels bad to me.  Ordered new exhaust valve and guide.

 

How hard to put the guide in??? Suggestions?  thanks

WIN_20160728_082001.JPG

:

 

WIN_20160728_082542.JPG

WIN_20160728_082552.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

Can't say on what it takes to do the valve guides as I have a professional do mine. I don't have the tools required to do it. New valve would have to be seated in I would think.  Now that you mention it the piston does look a little scorched near the exhaust but I would say that is fairly normal for a well worked horse. Any Idea how many hours are on this motor?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oe espo

1986 Tracor, so 30 years of service :handgestures-thumbupright:.  Non-working hour meter shows 1,488 hours.  The intake vs. exhuast clearance between guide and stem is way tigher than exhuast.  Not sure if that is normal or previous owner had it replaced?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • RJ Hamner
      By RJ Hamner
      Started tearing down the engine on my 68 Raider and first noticed the piston was stamped with an "A".
      As I cleaned off the top of the block I noticed that the  block had been also stamped with an "A" between the intake and exhaust valves.
      Is this something done at the factory? Or when it may have been serviced? or????
      Believe it or not the bore is still within limits which I found as odd.  But when I broke down the transmission it was like new????
      Any ideas?
       
      Bob

    • The Tuul Crib
      By The Tuul Crib
      I'm trying to find somewhere here the sequence on the head bolts for K301S. I'm trying to find it with no luck.
      Thanx
    • Jim Slaaen
      By Jim Slaaen
      The front-bearing on my el-starter to my C-120 1974, is somehow gone. Else the starter is fine. Is there possible to get a replacement bearing?    

×
×
  • Create New...