rmaynard 14,864 #26 Posted September 8, 2016 I would think that the axle would have to be removed to be welded, turned and recut for the Woodruff. But I've never done it so that's just my thoughts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #27 Posted September 8, 2016 1 hour ago, rmaynard said: I would think that the axle would have to be removed to be welded, turned and recut for the Woodruff. But I've never done it so that's just my thoughts. I have seen a few welded repairs and I thought they were in place, but I cant remember. On another note, this model did NOT have woodruff keys, there was a 1/4" (or so) square key on both axles... I guess that was a supposed improvement to the XI's? Though it seems like loose keys and chewed up axles are a fairly common problem with the XI's that I have seen. Did the woodruff key give better bite when tightened? Or does the 400+lbs of extra weight just wear them faster? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #28 Posted September 8, 2016 I'd wrap a wet rag around the axle close to the case, weld a little, quench and weld a little. Grind to finish. Might not be beautiful when I got done but it would work. And take a LOT less time than pulling the axle! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #29 Posted September 9, 2016 I found the topic: @Ed Kennell If you make it here: Did you make this repair with the axle still in the transmission? What kind of welder did you use? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,615 #30 Posted September 9, 2016 Yeah, I'm watching Brandon. Yes the axle was still in the tranny. I wrapped wet rags around the axle near the seal to keep it cool. Welder is the el-cheapo HF flux core welder with 0.030" wire, max heat, and med wire feed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #31 Posted September 9, 2016 (edited) 28 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: Yeah, I'm watching Brandon. Yes the axle was still in the tranny. I wrapped wet rags around the axle near the seal to keep it cool. Welder is the el-cheapo HF flux core welder with 0.030" wire, max heat, and med wire feed. Thanks Ed! That is WONDERFUL to hear. I was afraid I would have to pack this thousand pound thing up and take it to a welder that had better equipment. Sounds like my Hobart 140 should do the trick. What do I have to lose, right? Edited September 9, 2016 by bmsgaffer 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Howie 882 #32 Posted September 10, 2016 I welded up one of my axles but the transmission was apart. I bought a piece of 1/4 inch copper made a dummy key clamped it in place and welded around it. Put it in the lathe and turned it down. Weld doesn't stick to the copper. An engine builder here used a piece of carbon stick and welded around it on an old race motor in a car to get by for the moment. Not what I would recommend though! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,615 #33 Posted September 10, 2016 10 hours ago, bmsgaffer said: Thanks Ed! That is WONDERFUL to hear. I was afraid I would have to pack this thousand pound thing up and take it to a welder that had better equipment. Sounds like my Hobart 140 should do the trick. What do I have to lose, right? I don't think I explained how I "machined" the welded up keyway while still in the tranny. I rough ground the weld, then coated it with Prussian hi - spot bluing and used the hub to mark the high spots , then very slowly filed and reblued until the hub slid on over the welded up area. If the hub doesn't already have them, I also always add the second tapped hole for a set screw 90 degrees from the key. A black magic marker will work also if Prussian Bluing isn't available. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
