My First XI!

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

So I saw an XI on Craigslist that looked like it was in decent condition for a decent price, this week. It just so happens I was his first message of hundreds that day! As usual the ad pictures made it look MUCH nicer than it was, I was pretty disappointed. Poor thing was so neglected, but I didn't need another project. I was ready to walk and I told the guy as much. He said "make me an offer, I am buying a zero turn tomorrow" so I made a low offer (I cant totally walk, but I really didnt want another project!) and he declined. I was just about back to the car and he caved and sold it to me!

 

 

The positives I saw was the that hours were not terribly high (840) and there was not an ounce of rust in any of the usual spots. The paint is faded but no rust. It ran very smooth. The negatives: steering was very loose, wouldnt lift the deck very much, the whole bottom side was covered in oil and grease from engine and transmission leaks, grill and bumper cover cracked... the list of minutia goes on...

 

 

I finally got a chance to look at it tonight and I am excited. These things are BEASTS, those frame rails are awe inspiring for the size of tractor. One of the lift rings for the deck arm is broke clean off, thus it wouldn't lift the 60" deck with one ring. The pin holding the back end of the steering cylinder is totally missing (HOW was this thing still steering at all!?).

 

 

I am going to give it a degreasing / pressure washing, figure out how bad it is to clean out the tins, and maybe some color sanding/polishing.

 

To all the XI owners: What would be your recommended things to check/change besides the usual fluids/filters and tins? I know I read I have to pull the engine to clean the engine shroud, right? How bad is it?

 

Thanks for stopping by!

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

Looks like you got a good deal. Like you mentioned, do the obvious

1. Get a gas cap before you pressure wash it. I would be concerned that the tank may have sediment floating around because of it.
2. Get all the crud off. A good cleaning will really help, and you may spot some other issue.
3. Check the hubs and make sure that they are tight. The key way sometimes can be an issue.
4. Check the tie rods (looks like it is a '98) as the later years were beefed up.
5. Repair the two obvious problems.
6. Run the tractor to see how warm it gets. If it does run hot, then pull the engine but don't feel you need to immediately.
7. Try and polish the paint to see if it comes back.

I am amazed that the rubber boot on the steering column is intact! Usually they are torn.

 

Edited July 19, 2016 by shallowwatersailor

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

I always like the XIs, though I can see where some of that design was starting to take on more of the plasticity feel.  They are equivalent to Deere's excellent 4X5 series that Deere had a few years ago.  I never really had a chance to drive one yet, but I can imagine they're great at anything you do with them.

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,040]

Very nice machine for sure. What model XI? It looks MUCH better than mine when I got it. Pressure washing is a must. Heavy duty compounding will bring it back. Pull the current decals and contact Terry for a new set. His makes them look really nice. If power steering model there is an in line filter behind the air screen on the side that you will want to take off an make sure it clean. 

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

12 minutes ago, T-Mo said:

I always like the XIs, though I can see where some of that design was starting to take on more of the plasticity feel.  They are equivalent to Deere's excellent 4X5 series that Deere had a few years ago.  I never really had a chance to drive one yet, but I can imagine they're great at anything you do with them.

 

Surprisingly there aren't that many pieces that are plastic. The only plastic pieces are the front bumper valance, grille, steering wheel, dashboard overlay, and gas cap. Kohler uses plastic for the shrouds now, so the Kohler Command engine has plastic shrouds.

Edited July 19, 2016 by shallowwatersailor

[WNYPCRepair 1,875]

I think you will like it. Mine handles the front end loader like it's nothing. I use the NH GT22 (the twin to the XI series) to mow, and it does a great job, though I have never used the 60" deck yet. I decided 52" was big enough for me.




And if you don't like it, I know a guy who just might take it off your hands, LOL

[doc724 924]

Nice find, you will enjoy it.  John covered just about everything.  Nice Subi-we have one just like it-same color too.  I do not tow with my Subi-concerned about pulling with only 2.5L engine.  If you ever do REALLY want that 48 inch xi deck, I have one, but I am mucho miles away from you.

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

5 hours ago, T-Mo said:

I always like the XIs, though I can see where some of that design was starting to take on more of the plasticity feel.  They are equivalent to Deere's excellent 4X5 series that Deere had a few years ago.  I never really had a chance to drive one yet, but I can imagine they're great at anything you do with them.

 

I was always leary of them because they did look so plasticy. I think that may have helped lead to their demise since it looked like every other MTD style tractor at the time. I will bet many potential customers (that were not past wheel horse owners) never got close enough to see under the bubbly skin. That plastic looking tractor weighs nearly 1100lbs empty!

 

5 hours ago, stevebo said:

Very nice machine for sure. What model XI? It looks MUCH better than mine when I got it. Pressure washing is a must. Heavy duty compounding will bring it back. Pull the current decals and contact Terry for a new set. His makes them look really nice. If power steering model there is an in line filter behind the air screen on the side that you will want to take off an make sure it clean. 

 

Thanks Steve! I almost forgot about the PS filter. Its a 522xi, and yes I have been debating on what to do for the decals, original look or something a bit more custom, hmmmm...

 

5 hours ago, shallowwatersailor said:

Looks like you got a good deal. Like you mentioned, do the obvious

1. Get a gas cap before you pressure wash it. I would be concerned that the tank may have sediment floating around because of it.
2. Get all the crud off. A good cleaning will really help, and you may spot some other issue.
3. Check the hubs and make sure that they are tight. The key way sometimes can be an issue.
4. Check the tie rods (looks like it is a '98) as the later years were beefed up.
5. Repair the two obvious problems.
6. Run the tractor to see how warm it gets. If it does run hot, then pull the engine but don't feel you need to immediately.
7. Try and polish the paint to see if it comes back.

I am amazed that the rubber boot on the steering column is intact! Usually they are torn.

 

Thanks John!

 

Its no 523dxi, but should be easier to not have to get a special diesel fuel can for now...

 

One hub had some replacement screws installed, so I will dig into that and probably replace with original setscrews if the threads still match.

 

Are the later tie rods able to be retrofit onto this model if need be? He had it listed as a 99, so I was hopeful but the serial number tells me its a 98. What other changes were made throughout the years? Is there any thread on this?

 

I did notice that after running a while the hood was almost too hot to touch. Also the PO mentioned he had to fix a wiring issue due to a mouse nest at some point so i really would want to dig into that just so I feel comfotable with it.

 

I too was amazed about the steering column boot and that surely helped my decision to get it!

4 hours ago, doc724 said:

Nice find, you will enjoy it.  John covered just about everything.  Nice Subi-we have one just like it-same color too.  I do not tow with my Subi-concerned about pulling with only 2.5L engine.  If you ever do REALLY want that 48 inch xi deck, I have one, but I am mucho miles away from you.

 

Can you send me pictures and price? I am up for Fastenal shipping the right one!

 

I am really growing to love the Subaru. Dont be afraid to tow, that 2.5 has a LOT of torque and the CVT always finds the right gear. You wont win any races but I towed it all, just under 1900lbs in total close to 50 miles in 90* weather -half country backroads , half 70mph interstate- without it ever feeing underpowered. Never got hot, or cared really you just have to be careful of tongue weight so you still have good handling. 

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,040]

I went with the carbon fiber looking decals from terry and love them.

[WNYPCRepair 1,875]

The hood of my 522xi and the GT22 both get really hot. I think it is normal, any other opinions?

 

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

38 minutes ago, WNYPCRepair said:

The hood of my 522xi and the GT22 both get really hot. I think it is normal, any other opinions?

 

Ah, that's interesting! I would also like some others to chime in: Does your XI's hood get too hot to touch after a while of operation? I know the cooling is not as good as the classics but I just never thought it would get that hot.

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

The hood normally does get warm. When I was using the 518xi for mowing, I would let it sit for a while with the hood up before blowing the chaff/dust off.

 

With the 523Dxi, I haven't noticed that it gets as warm due to being water-cooled. But it does have the same problem of sucking up grass as a 520-H and covering the screens. In addition I have to clean the removable screen in front of the radiator as well for the small stuff. I will say this that it is a better design for mowing than an Onan 520-H.

 

All three of mine have needed the tie rods tightened but I haven't needed to replace them - yet. Two needed the rocker pedal adjusted for reverse.

[fatboycowen 30]

Awesome.

Pull the fender off and look for loose stuff on the linkage for the motion control. I did a write up on deleting the smart steer, that explains the fender removal a little. It's also in the service manual, that you can download. That will also allow you to clean easier.

Pulling the engine is very easy, if you have something to lift it with. I did a write up.

You can probably get 80-90% of the gunk out of the engine by using an air compressor and air gun, unless it's really caked on. Shoot air in between all the openings in the surrounds. I did, and got tons of mouse nest material long before i decided to pull the motor, and when i did pull the motor, there was barely anything left that needed cleaning.

 

Photo everything as you take it apart. It's easy to work on, and the photos might help you remember where everything goes.

 

The hood does get hot. See if the gauge is working. If it is, mowing usually gets mine just over half way on a hot day. Without mowing, my gauge barely moves into the green. If it doesn't work, the sensor is easy to get to and swap, or at least it looks easy.

 

Change all the fluids too, once you find and fix the bad leaks.

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

16 hours ago, fatboycowen said:

The hood does get hot. See if the gauge is working. If it is, mowing usually gets mine just over half way on a hot day. Without mowing, my gauge barely moves into the green. If it doesn't work, the sensor is easy to get to and swap, or at least it looks easy.

 

Ha! I am so used to driving machines that never had a temp gauge that I did not even think to look for it.  Thanks for that! 

[PeacemakerJack 10,670]

Welcome to the Xi club.  I've owned my (wife's) D for about 9 months now and I love it!  Mine has nearly 1100 hours on the tractor now and has some wear parts that could use replacement eventually but this thing is a beast. As I stated in another thread while working on mine, these things are the best kept secret in the GT world.  IMHO they are tougher built than the JD's of the same vintage yet can be had today for much less coin because no one is very familiar with them except for their owners and a few guys on here.  Shallow Water Sailor is a great help with these machines.  Good luck with yours.  I'll be following this thread for sure!

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

With 2 little boys and 3 hours a day commuting, I don't get as much wheel horse time as I would like anymore. 

 

I did pick up a harbor freight D/A polisher with some pads and compound. And I got a few quality hours with my new polisher and my faded horse.

 

Getting Started:

 

Now we're talking:

 

There is definitely some decent scratches in the hood that will need some touch up, but the paint is in fantastic shape under a bit of fade. No rust at all. This will likely just be a worker for me, but still want go show her a little love!

[WHX?? 46,768]

Keeping  an eye on this thread bms..guy just down the road has a 522 for 2275....54" deck gonna go look just for grins...

[PeacemakerJack 10,670]

1 hour ago, WHX7 said:

Keeping  an eye on this thread bms..guy just down the road has a 522 for 2275....54" deck gonna go look just for grins...

 

Careful!  These things are very addictive.  Don't get too close or you'll be trying to figure out a way to take it home with you!. 

 

Ive I be been watching that one since it was posted recently.  

[WHX?? 46,768]

Looks pretty clean Jack but like gaffer said they all seem to look clean in pics. I bought a WH tub from the same seller and it seemed he took care of his tractors. He is real close to me. I could walk there and drive the horse back!

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

I have found that the paint is well applied on these tractors. Looks like the original owner had some bushes to mow around.

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

Well since I had a bit more time in the garage today I went another direction from the polishing.

 

Panels off, it is surprisingly easy to get all the body off this tractor, and nothing seems flimsy, shoddy or extraordinarily difficult (except maybe the engine covers which is where I am heading).

 

And the funny little silver metal sheild around the exhaust, it looks like it got vibrated through.

 

Oil and dirt piles from small leaks and probably oil changes. 

 

Several snapped or cutoff bolt heads on the engine.  At least its all for just covers. 

 

More oily grime. 

 

I am a little afraid the shaft seal is leaking on this kohler, how hard is that to replace? I surely dont want to tear into the engine at this point. 

 

Should I try to remove the muffler or am I just going to run down a broken-bolt-in-the-block rabbit hole?

 

More broken cover bolts, this monkey musta been using an impact driver or something... I also think I need valve cover gaskets or at least a tightening. 

 

What a MESS! But all looks solid, just really dirty.

 

Aint much cooling going on here... Is the fan on backwards or is that normal? At least all the flex joints look great!

 

Hard to see from here, but the power steering bolt is sheared about halfway down in the tube. There is just the bolt head and about 3/4" of shank held in by gravity. That's the only thing allowing the tractor to steer currently (which is why i havent been running it!)

 

Here you can see where the sheared lift eye bolt once mounted. Kids: this is what happens when you dont maintain your stuff! Lucky I think I caught it early enough.

 

The coolest thing about this is that all of these pieces are in great shape without any crazy wear and that under the solid coating of oily dirt is clean black paint that I hope to find here soon!

 

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

Ahhhh, that's so much better. Spent a bit of time with the pressure washer today.

 

 

 

[Howie 882]

Boy, that looks am lot different!  

[Wishin4a416 2,185]

Coming along nicely!!

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

AUGH! I knew those bolts in the left rear hub were a bad sign... Idiot numbskulls cant take halfway decent care of anything to save their life!   I had a pit in my stomach when I pulled the wheel off because I could actually wobble the hub front/back and up/down, i think the axle wallowed out the hub. I will be looking at the repair threads soon. I REALLY did not want to drop the transmission from the tractor, and still don't if I can avoid it. At least the bearings have little to no play in them, so I think I am good there.

 

Those of you who did axle weld repairs, could you do them in place on the tractor then replace the seals? I may have to get a good welder over, I don't think my little Hobart 140 will handle this do you?

 

 

 

 

 

 

At least the other one looks OK. Its not great either, but it should be workable with some polishing and a new seal. Maybe I should have it welded same as the other just to be sure?