"Blackbeard"--Zach's GT-14

[Pullstart 59,555]

Awesome update!  Great work, Zach!  Thanks for the assist, @Coulter Caleb, I’m sure dear old dad could use all the help he could get pulling that thing out of the van and into the shop!

[19richie66 16,880]

That engine will make Blackbeard an even more beastly tractor than it already is. Definitely following along.

[RandyLittrell 3,827]

I will be following this for sure, I have a K321 stationary motor just like that in the shed. Been waiting to put it in something!! 

 

 

 

 

Randy

[PeacemakerJack 10,670]

Thanks Randy. Some of you have heard my motto “things that are different are not the same”.  Obviously it isn’t original with me but I take it to mean that no matter how close something is to something else, the littlest difference can have an effect on the outcome.  I have noted some differences already in these two motors that I will have to address before having a functioning reliable machine. 

 

The boys couldn’t get Blackbeard in the shed yesterday fast enough.

After pumping up the tires and opening the tow valve, we were off to the races...

 

Not quite yet.

 

However, Zach was happy to have his tractor in a spot where we could actually work on it and get it back in action. Take a close look at the paint on Blackbeard and compare with some of the later shots.

Zach was carefully eyeing up the whole process before we began stripping it down.

Thanks to @pfrederi I was able to get The PTO removed safely and set aside for install on the M16.  It took a couple hours, with Zach doing much of the disassembly but we were able to get the old tired K321 out of the cradle.  

 

The previous owner said that other than routine maintenance that they never did an overhaul.  I’m pretty sure that the engine installed nearly 50 years ago in South Bend had never been out.  The paint looks new on the frame and check out the condition of these engine mount bolts, all head stamped the same...

 

If this tractor had only stayed inside the last two years with Todd before we got it, I can only imagine what it would’ve looked like.

The patient waiting for the heart transplant...

[Pullstart 59,555]

Will it receive a well deserved bath before we go any further?  That frame will pop when it’s cleaned up for sure!

[PeacemakerJack 10,670]

Absolutely Kevin!  Scrub a dub! It only has about 50 years of grime under there from the engine oil, fan gear grease, dirt, and clippings...time to clean it out.  

 

Zach was also asking about getting a double pulley for running his tiller.  I’ll have to put a post in the wanted section for one.  I purchased one from @Aldon but as we both knew, it is set for the splined output shaft on the hydro. I rolled the dice but Zach’s tractor doesn’t have splines.  

[Rob R 951]

On 7/6/2016 at 10:05 PM, Aldon said:

I have had starter switches fail most on these 40 plus year old tractors. Followed by relays then CDI. I guess general electrical opens due to corrosion is tied with CDI.

 

I rewire to use cheaper ignition switch than what was stock.

 

On my last tractor, I just gutted the wiring and redid to avoid the irritating residual failures. Seemingly every week a minor break down.

Totally agree with Aldon re-wired my basket case GT14 (in the woods 20+ yrs) solved all the issues basically this included a new key switch and solenoid. NO issues 3 yrs. 

[WHX?? 46,693]

Now that is making a silk purse out of a sow's ear Rob!

9 hours ago, PeacemakerJack said:

double pulley for running his tiller.

I may have one on a parts 953 if it's the one I'm thinkin your thinkin?? Goes on the crank???

[p38js 401]

If you still have the original pto switch install a relay between the switch and pto. It will take the load off the switch and it should last another 50yrs. Those switches hard to come by

[PeacemakerJack 10,670]

 Thanks for the tip...I’ll be sure to install one.  Any recommendations on brand, style, location to mount it, etc?  Looks like I already have a strong lead on a double pulley but you’ll have to stay tuned to find out more about that!  I will be away from this project for a week as I take my bride of 19 years to a wedding of a former TeenGroup kid.  He called me last august and asked me to come down and officiate!  We are excited to attend and take part in their special day and take a couple of days vacation in celebration of our anniversary which was last Sunday.  

 

I promise that ill get back to reviving Blackbeard when I arrive home—Zach won’t let me slack for sure!  I’m looking for just the right Blackbeard sketching on line that we can have screen printed on vinyl and stuck to the engine cover right above the flywheel.  This is one of several that I like...

 

or this one...

I think I have figured out what I’ll do with Zach’s paint scheme as well to keep the theme.  More on that in upcoming posts!

[WHX?? 46,693]

I like the first one....looks like Capn' @Achto in drag!  Never did get a cruze in with the hat on Dan?!?!? BTW found the bed pan head gear!

[Achto 26,504]

11 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

Never did get a cruze in with the hat on Dan?!?!? BTW found the bed pan head gear!

 

We'll have to save them both for a cruise at Pickett.

[PeacemakerJack 10,670]

I was out of town for a week doing a wedding for a former youth group student. We had a great time in the Smokey mountains but now that we are home, Zach wants to see some more progress on Blackbeard.  One of the things that always amazes me is the small differences in the different spec numbers for the Kohler K series engines.  I have catalogued a bunch of them between the Factory K321 from Blackbeard and the new K341 (M16) engine on its way in.  I’ll lay these out as we begin the install...

 

First job when I got home was to remove the pulleys.  The one on the factory engine came out without much fanfare.  I had soaked the set screws with deep creep for a couple of weeks and those broke free fairly easy.  It didn’t take much pressure to slide the drive pulley off.  

This pulley however was a HUGE pain in the neck...mainly because I had no idea how it was on there.  Once I figured it out, it came off in a minute or two.  It has a collar that slides directly over the crankshaft with a key way cut in it and it is split,  the quadruple pulley (outer part)has a tapered hole in the middle that is wedged over top of inner part. The inner part has two threaded holes in the lip and two larger holes in the lip.  The larger holes line up with threaded holes in the outer pulley assembly.  I started (admission of my ignorance) by trying to pull the inner part out not knowing that the harder I pulled the tighter it was getting.  Then I tried to pull the whole works off at once—FAIL!  When I was about to give up for the night, my tenacity got the best of me.

 I took two short 1/4” bolts and threaded them into the the lip of the inner part. Using a Rachet, the little bolts pushed again the outer pulley towards the engine block, away from the taper. Once loose, it slid free. Then I put a pulley puller on the end of the shaft using two longer 1/4” bolts to pull the inner hub off.  Eureka! The solution presents itself.  

For those of you that have dealt with these many times, don’t laugh too hard.  For those of you who haven’t, hopefully I have saved you some future headaches

 

Next up was preparing the block and tins for painting.  I had to change the crankcase breather because the one on the M16 was directly plumbed to the aircleaner housing.  I took one off an old parts motor that I had laying around.  I also noticed that the exhaust port in 1 1/4” instead of 1” like on the K321!  So, I picked up some pipe to thread into the block and a 45 degree elbow.  Threaded those in a prepared them for paint.  However, the only way Zach’s existing stack will work on here is to neck the exhaust down to 1”.  

 

What do you guys think? 

 

 

Something tells me that the factory wanted that engine to flow more and hence the larger pipe.  I don’t want to restrict it and cause an undue heat issue.  Otherwise, I’ll have to look up Jim Kemp and have him make a custom one for Blackbeard.  If it has a chrome tip and a black body...Zach would be stoked.  I don’t want it too loud since this will be a regular use, garden, mower, blower tractor but Zach loves his stack! 

 

I also plumbed the outlet for the oil drain with 3/4” pipe.  I want to make it easy to keep fresh “liquid gold” in this monster that doesn’t have pressure lube or an oil filter.

 

Then it was time to clean parts, tape off, and prime...

 

 

Does anyone out there have a decent condition Chrome aircleaner cover off of a Magnum 18 in your parts stash that you’d be willing to sell us?  I have this image in my mind of that CHROME air cleaner sticking off the side of the engine in the factory location of the skinny one that was used.  I want the extra breathing capacity of the deep dish air cleaner for sure.  I can put a regular painted one on but I think Zach would love the extra “bling”!

 

Then it was time to lay down the black...

 

 

It isn’t a paint job up to @Achto’s standards , but it looks nice nonetheless and will be a good centerpiece to the whole machine.  I asked Zach if he wanted it red and he said that he wanted it to stay black.

 

 

Next up...assembly.

 

Then I need to contact @Vinylguy about some custom stickers!😜. Once we know we have a runner, the sheet metal will get some fresh red to protect it for the next decade or so...

[Pullstart 59,555]

Josh...  a normal sized 4 cylinder car has 1-1/2” exhaust pipe.  I bet that Kohler breathing out a 1” pipe won’t be too bad, considering the short length of exhaust compared to a car...  great update and welcome back from the south!

[WHX?? 46,693]

1 hour ago, PeacemakerJack said:

a HUGE pain in the neck...

Wouldn't have been had you asked! Those are real common in HVAC drives and easy to get off.

[Achto 26,504]

I agree with Kevin on the exhaust. If you have room, I would use a bell fitting instead of a bushing to neck it down. A bell would create slightly less turbulence.  

Edited August 20, 2019 by Achto

[RandyLittrell 3,827]

Thanks for the great play by play, mine has that same pulley and I would bet I would have been banging my head on the wall!! 

 

Randy

[PeacemakerJack 10,670]

Zach was really excited to take the tape off  as soon as it was painted by I convinced him to wait at least till the paint was dried to the touch.  

 

Before going any further, I’ll catalog as promised some of the changes I came across.  

1.) the M16 engine shroud is wider to the carb side of the engine by about .75”.  This necessitated a spacer be put between the throttle linkage and the engine block 

I’m pointing to the bushing I added with the sharpie marker.  I also had to use a 2.25” bolt to hold on the assembly.

2.) There was no hole in the engine shroud for the far right linkage.  I made some comparative measurements from the old K321 and drilled a 5/16” hole.  Then I used JB weld to place a .25” nut on the inside.

3.) the stationary engine had a different style of top shrouding and I had to roll bend that down to fit around the starter side of the engine. 

4.) my particular carb has the choke lever on the opposite side of the WH engine and so it will require changing the routing some but I don’t think I’ll need to change the cable (more later on that)

5.)I had to remove any bracketry and additional wire from the stationary setup that won’t be needed on the GT-14.  

6.) Switched over the “velocity stack” from the K321 to this engine, moving the Air Cleaner to the factory location.

7.) Built a new support bracket for the underside of the velocity stack since the engine shroud casting dimensions are different on the two engines

8.) changed out the PCV breather plate with a spare I had since this one had a drilled hole in it for the tube to the air cleaner base plate

 

Zach and I discussed it and decided on a polished aluminum “velocity stack” since that looks pretty cool!  

Then it was time to prep, prime, and paint the main shroud which we elected to do in Red.  It looks sweet to see the red against the black and silver.  It will keep with the theme of the rest of the tractor.

I also painted the inside cover of the aircleaner red for the time being. Once I get my hands on a chrome cover, that will be installed, until then—open element!

Zach is really getting excited about being able to drive and use his tractor again (I won’t lie—I am too😁) after about 2 years of inactivity.  I hope this engine runs as good as it looks.  If it does, Zach will have a hardworking tractor all through his childhood and right into his teen years...

Edited August 26, 2019 by PeacemakerJack

[PeacemakerJack 10,670]

Boy...it looks good to see the heart back in the pirate!  It took about 5 hours to get it in place and plumbed up.  I’m still not happy with the choke cable operation and may have to run a new cable as the angle and operation isn’t smooth at all.

Thanks Dan/Kevin for the suggestion on necking down the exhaust.  That CC muffler sure quiets this tractor down a lot which will make it great for mowing, blowing, tilling, maybe even plowing at Jim’s in the sandy soil.  How COOL would it be to see video this fall of Zach plowing at Jim’s by himself!  This tractor is big but completely manageable for a little dude if he/she is strong enough to turn the wheel. Everything is within reach and easy to operate!  

Still got to hook up the PTO and do a little more with the wiring to really have it ready for regular use.  We did get it running though!  It took a little while to get fuel in the whole system but then it started and ran really well.

Look at the big grin on this guys face.  We would’ve taken it for a little drive but it was pouring rain.  Maybe tomorrow...

Note the .25” clearance above the engine to the strut.  It works but very close.  Not so lucky with the hood though...

[Pullstart 59,555]

Congrats on the success, Josh and Zach!  How bad does the hood hit?  I wouldn’t think the sheet metal drops too far below the strut...  I’m just tossing out ideas, could you shim the grille up 1/8-1/4” to help, or is it in the back?

[Pullstart 59,555]

I forgot to mention, that stack and the turnout are absolutely spot on!  He’s surely a plow dog in the making!

[PeacemakerJack 10,670]

He had that thing for awhile with just the standard pepper shaker muffler and he was buggin me nonstop about getting a stack on it!  Now—it has to have tires like Skittles on the back.  He’s into it for sure.

 

Regarding the hood—I’ll take some pics of the situation tomorrow and post them. I have a spare hood at my disposal but I have to figure out what to do with it—belly it out around the engine or cut the edge to clear...it comes down about .75” lower than the strut.  Not much, but enough to cause problems.

[Achto 26,504]

7 hours ago, PeacemakerJack said:

Regarding the hood—I’ll take some pics of the situation tomorrow and post them. I have a spare hood at my disposal but I have to figure out what to do with it—belly it out around the engine or cut the edge to clear...it comes down about .75” lower than the strut.  Not much, but enough to cause problems

 

Shoot us some pic's for sure. We'll help you do some brain storming.

[Pullstart 59,555]

Knowing that the engine is only temporary until Zach reaches the age of rebuilding the original mill, how hard would it be to build a temporary hood out of a template to the original?  Then you wouldn’t have to cut an original.

 

But on the other hand.... I vote that if you do trim it, give it an edge parallel to the original and radius the ends of the edge down to the original lines...  A crude blue line in the image helps explain what I mean.  I’d think it would be more subtle than just trimming around the engine.

 

[WHX?? 46,693]

How close is that hood to a 953 hood? I have a spare that's already been cut. Get that seat off and put an old pos on for temp. That original looks too nice to be beating up on a plow field!

 

That a Sportster sittin next to old yeller?

Edited August 27, 2019 by WHX24