Jump to content

Recommended Posts

3 hours ago, ztnoo said:

Which "belt" are you referring to???

Belt that drives the deck off the electric PTO?

Sorry for not being clear... but, yeah, I am referring to the belt from the PTO that drives the blades on the mower deck. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, BigRedGrizzly said:

I am referring to the belt from the PTO that drives the blades on the mower deck

 

That's what I assumed you meant, but needed clarification to answer your question.

 

The original Wheel Horse number is 9783.

It's a 1/2" x 71" belt.

I use a Gates PowerRated belt which is 6871.

Edited by ztnoo
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, ztnoo said:

 

That's what I assumed you meant, but needed clarification to answer your question.

 

The original Wheel Horse number is 9783.

It's a 1/2" x 71" belt.

I used a Gates PowerRated belt which is 6871.

Awesome! Thank you guys👌🏻😎

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey all.... I just wanted to follow up with you all. I installed the "very proud" ignition and it started fine. However, the electric PTO and the lights were not working. I spent an hour trying to figure it out and gave up. From what I can tell, I think the power leaving the ammeter is compromised. So instead of messing with it too much I just bought a couple single pole toggle switches and wired them up. Now I have a toggle switch for the electric PTO and the lights. Everything is back to working. I also installed the new mower deck drive belt as suggested. I had to relocate the adjustable pully wheel to get the proper tension on the belt. All and all it functioned great. I have another deck which has a couple rust holes in it. I'm going to strip it for back up parts. Any way here are some pics and a vid.... 

 

IMG_2602.JPG

IMG_2603.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Glad you got your belt and got the deck mounted and running.

Just a heads up........make sure when you do your final adjustments that everything in the mule drive is in place correctly and that that Idler pulley in the slotted hole in the cam plate is good and tight.

Does your pivot arm assembly (the elongated cast piece which holds the idler pulley) have grease zerks? Mine does and it goes a long way to lubing and adding service life to a part with lots of load and stress. Mine are drive in zerks and were on my tractor when I bought it 36 years ago. There should already be pre-drilled holes in the pivot arm for the zerks.

 

As to your electrical quirks, you might try giving the battery posts and cables a good cleaning  to ensure excellent mechanical contact. That positive post and cable look to be corroded somewhat.

I found once that my electric clutch wouldn't function with low voltage, which was ultimately caused by cracked and broken spades on the rectifier and the battery not sufficiently charging........just saying keeping those posts and cable clean can really help eliminate lots of quirky electrical problems.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/13/2017 at 7:34 AM, ztnoo said:

Glad you got your belt and got the deck mounted and running.

Just a heads up........make sure when you do your final adjustments that everything in the mule drive is in place correctly and that that Idler pulley in the slotted hole in the cam plate is good and tight.

Does your pivot arm assembly (the elongated cast piece which holds the idler pulley) have grease zerks? Mine does and it goes a long way to lubing and adding service life to a part with lots of load and stress. Mine are drive in zerks and were on my tractor when I bought it 36 years ago. There should already be pre-drilled holes in the pivot arm for the zerks.

 

As to your electrical quirks, you might try giving the battery posts and cables a good cleaning  to ensure excellent mechanical contact. That positive post and cable look to be corroded somewhat.

I found once that my electric clutch wouldn't function with low voltage, which was ultimately caused by cracked and broken spades on the rectifier and the battery not sufficiently charging........just saying keeping those posts and cable clean can really help eliminate lots of quirky electrical problems.

Hey there ZTNOO....Thanks for the tips... I didn't notice any zerks in the area you mentioned. I did remove the eclip and lube up the shaft pretty well. I'm figuring this will be a yearly maintenance thing. Off the old deck I salvaged 3 decent blades, two spindles, and 3 pulleys. Unfortunately the middle pulley was welded to the spindle shaft. Not removable. I also salvaged the rear wheels and height adjusting mechanism. 

For the bracket that attaches the mower deck someone welded washers to the outsides of the bracket. I ground them off and gave it a quick primer coat. 

Here you can see some pics how I have it set up. If you notice anything out of whack let me know. 

 

IMG_2643.JPG

IMG_2644.JPG

IMG_2645.JPG

IMG_2646.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your pivot arm has holes for drive in zerks, they are on the bottom of the part.

Maybe you haven't really looked at the bottom.

If you haven't looked, they may be there.......or maybe not.

See the attached pics from the pivot arm I busted about 3-4 weeks ago.

 

 

IMG_1053 a.jpg

IMG_1054 a.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Fellas... My 85" belt is slipping and smoking up a storm.. Lol... I'm going to be looking for a 82" or 83". I seem to have lost some power in reverse. I think it it is because of the loose belt. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎2017‎-‎06‎-‎13 at 9:05 PM, BigRedGrizzly said:

Hi Fellas... My 85" belt is slipping and smoking up a storm.. Lol... I'm going to be looking for a 82" or 83". I seem to have lost some power in reverse. I think it it is because of the loose belt. 

 

Transmission drive belt 8334 - (B x 84.8" or 5/8" x 84.8") - Still available from Toro

 

Garry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Fellas.... I am stumped on this reverse loss of power issue I'm having. Initially I thought it was because one of my  hydraulic hoses were leaking.  So I got new hoses and I figured that would solve the problem. But it didn't. Next I thought it was because the drive belt was too loose. So I got a new nice tight belt. Unfortunately I am still experiencing  A loss of power in reverse. I am also noticing my three point harness and the mower deck slowly drops.  This happens with the motor running and of course with the motor not running.  I have recently changed the oil and change the filter but it is still happening. I am not noticing any fluid leaking anywhere. Anybody have a clue as to what might be causing this? 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Aldon
      I have posted these for sale locally on CL as well.
       
      The prices below reflect discount for Forum Members:
       
      No Decks included in price of tractors.
      GT22-8 Project - $2700
      GT16 Restomod - $2400 (Comes with Tiller)
       
       
       

       


       
       
       

       
       
       
    • By Aldon
      Well, most of the regulars here are aware I will be relocating this Spring/Summer. I had hoped to take the remaining collection of tractors with me. However more and more it is becoming obvious that this plan wont work out for numerous reasons. As such, once I make up my mind as to which one to keep, I will be posting the remainder as well as most parts etc up for sale in the Forum Classifieds and CL.
       
      As I hope shows in poll info, I have 2 Stage Blower, Restored 48 & 60 inch(195) decks, 54 inch blade, GT14 style Tiller and a project Sickle Bar. The Sickle BAr can likely be made to work on the GT14 style tractors and the C160.
       
      I enjoy working on them but as I get older I may not have time or ability to do so. As such, maintenance and parts and ease of use of a single tractor are part of the equation.
       
      A couple of these I have poured a lot of time into but I am not emotionally tied to them and I believe if I relocate back east where Grass and tractor need becomes more necessary, I can re-create them.
       
      So help me out with my decision. 
       
      A couple pics of the beasts in question:






    • By Bill Good
      54" blade that I think fits the GT14 and 1054 era tractors.  This is new on the shelf and has never been used.
       
       


    • By Team70R
      Found a gt14 that needs hydro pump rebuilt along with a 48" deck, 3 point hitch, tiller, and rear mount generator for $500 and no one has jumped on the deal.. what am I missing here? 
    • By Gt14owner
      Need to find a drive pulley for gt14 model 1-7451.  Wh part # 8059 toro # 100390.   Thanks
×