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3 hours ago, ztnoo said:

Which "belt" are you referring to???

Belt that drives the deck off the electric PTO?

Sorry for not being clear... but, yeah, I am referring to the belt from the PTO that drives the blades on the mower deck. 

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, BigRedGrizzly said:

I am referring to the belt from the PTO that drives the blades on the mower deck

 

That's what I assumed you meant, but needed clarification to answer your question.

 

The original Wheel Horse number is 9783.

It's a 1/2" x 71" belt.

I use a Gates PowerRated belt which is 6871.

Edited by ztnoo
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4 minutes ago, ztnoo said:

 

That's what I assumed you meant, but needed clarification to answer your question.

 

The original Wheel Horse number is 9783.

It's a 1/2" x 71" belt.

I used a Gates PowerRated belt which is 6871.

Awesome! Thank you guys👌🏻😎

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Hey all.... I just wanted to follow up with you all. I installed the "very proud" ignition and it started fine. However, the electric PTO and the lights were not working. I spent an hour trying to figure it out and gave up. From what I can tell, I think the power leaving the ammeter is compromised. So instead of messing with it too much I just bought a couple single pole toggle switches and wired them up. Now I have a toggle switch for the electric PTO and the lights. Everything is back to working. I also installed the new mower deck drive belt as suggested. I had to relocate the adjustable pully wheel to get the proper tension on the belt. All and all it functioned great. I have another deck which has a couple rust holes in it. I'm going to strip it for back up parts. Any way here are some pics and a vid.... 

 

IMG_2602.JPG

IMG_2603.JPG

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Glad you got your belt and got the deck mounted and running.

Just a heads up........make sure when you do your final adjustments that everything in the mule drive is in place correctly and that that Idler pulley in the slotted hole in the cam plate is good and tight.

Does your pivot arm assembly (the elongated cast piece which holds the idler pulley) have grease zerks? Mine does and it goes a long way to lubing and adding service life to a part with lots of load and stress. Mine are drive in zerks and were on my tractor when I bought it 36 years ago. There should already be pre-drilled holes in the pivot arm for the zerks.

 

As to your electrical quirks, you might try giving the battery posts and cables a good cleaning  to ensure excellent mechanical contact. That positive post and cable look to be corroded somewhat.

I found once that my electric clutch wouldn't function with low voltage, which was ultimately caused by cracked and broken spades on the rectifier and the battery not sufficiently charging........just saying keeping those posts and cable clean can really help eliminate lots of quirky electrical problems.

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On 5/13/2017 at 7:34 AM, ztnoo said:

Glad you got your belt and got the deck mounted and running.

Just a heads up........make sure when you do your final adjustments that everything in the mule drive is in place correctly and that that Idler pulley in the slotted hole in the cam plate is good and tight.

Does your pivot arm assembly (the elongated cast piece which holds the idler pulley) have grease zerks? Mine does and it goes a long way to lubing and adding service life to a part with lots of load and stress. Mine are drive in zerks and were on my tractor when I bought it 36 years ago. There should already be pre-drilled holes in the pivot arm for the zerks.

 

As to your electrical quirks, you might try giving the battery posts and cables a good cleaning  to ensure excellent mechanical contact. That positive post and cable look to be corroded somewhat.

I found once that my electric clutch wouldn't function with low voltage, which was ultimately caused by cracked and broken spades on the rectifier and the battery not sufficiently charging........just saying keeping those posts and cable clean can really help eliminate lots of quirky electrical problems.

Hey there ZTNOO....Thanks for the tips... I didn't notice any zerks in the area you mentioned. I did remove the eclip and lube up the shaft pretty well. I'm figuring this will be a yearly maintenance thing. Off the old deck I salvaged 3 decent blades, two spindles, and 3 pulleys. Unfortunately the middle pulley was welded to the spindle shaft. Not removable. I also salvaged the rear wheels and height adjusting mechanism. 

For the bracket that attaches the mower deck someone welded washers to the outsides of the bracket. I ground them off and gave it a quick primer coat. 

Here you can see some pics how I have it set up. If you notice anything out of whack let me know. 

 

IMG_2643.JPG

IMG_2644.JPG

IMG_2645.JPG

IMG_2646.JPG

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If your pivot arm has holes for drive in zerks, they are on the bottom of the part.

Maybe you haven't really looked at the bottom.

If you haven't looked, they may be there.......or maybe not.

See the attached pics from the pivot arm I busted about 3-4 weeks ago.

 

 

IMG_1053 a.jpg

IMG_1054 a.jpg

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Hi Fellas... My 85" belt is slipping and smoking up a storm.. Lol... I'm going to be looking for a 82" or 83". I seem to have lost some power in reverse. I think it it is because of the loose belt. 

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On ‎2017‎-‎06‎-‎13 at 9:05 PM, BigRedGrizzly said:

Hi Fellas... My 85" belt is slipping and smoking up a storm.. Lol... I'm going to be looking for a 82" or 83". I seem to have lost some power in reverse. I think it it is because of the loose belt. 

 

Transmission drive belt 8334 - (B x 84.8" or 5/8" x 84.8") - Still available from Toro

 

Garry

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Hi Fellas.... I am stumped on this reverse loss of power issue I'm having. Initially I thought it was because one of my  hydraulic hoses were leaking.  So I got new hoses and I figured that would solve the problem. But it didn't. Next I thought it was because the drive belt was too loose. So I got a new nice tight belt. Unfortunately I am still experiencing  A loss of power in reverse. I am also noticing my three point harness and the mower deck slowly drops.  This happens with the motor running and of course with the motor not running.  I have recently changed the oil and change the filter but it is still happening. I am not noticing any fluid leaking anywhere. Anybody have a clue as to what might be causing this? 

 

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