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5 hours ago, Aldon said:

Happy Birthday!

:hbd:

Thanks, brother. I have to do some investigating on the GT14. While plowing snow a oil leak developed and I have severe power loss while in reverse. Still has wicked power in forward. I'm thinking a hose or o-ring... 

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On ‎2016‎-‎10‎-‎30 at 5:00 PM, BigRedGrizzly said:

I recently purchased a welder and began teaching myself how to use it. I'm using a Mig with fluxcore filler. I needed to make a bracket that would connect my plow to the lift point on my tractor. I used a 1/4"X3/4" piece of steel, drilled a hole for some bolts to go through and welded them in place. I then drilled holes in the bolts for the retainer spring clips. I love doing these little projects that make a BIG difference. I also painted up my 3point. These are for my GT14. 

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Good job on the lift link. Welding the head of the bolt only keeps the pins square in the holes of the lift lever and attachment which minimizes wear. An improvement would be to use a longer bolt with enough unthreaded shaft to fit into the holes. Cut the threads off.

I weld in the bolts so the holes for the spring pins are perpendicular to the link. That way I know where they are and can insert the spring pins blindfolded. A good chamfer on the small pin holes with a countersink bit makes finding the holes even easier.

Some applications require a couple of opposite bends in the lift link to keep the lift pins horizontal to their attachment points. Welding the lift pins in the link in opposite directions may be enough. If it isn't the two bends don't need to be so severe. Keeping the lift pins horizontal greatly extends the life of the holes they go into.

 

Garry

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5 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Good job on the lift link. Welding the head of the bolt only keeps the pins square in the holes of the lift lever and attachment which minimizes wear. An improvement would be to use a longer bolt with enough unthreaded shaft to fit into the holes. Cut the threads off.

I weld in the bolts so the holes for the spring pins are perpendicular to the link. That way I know where they are and can insert the spring pins blindfolded. A good chamfer on the small pin holes with a countersink bit makes finding the holes even easier.

Some applications require a couple of opposite bends in the lift link to keep the lift pins horizontal to their attachment points. Welding the lift pins in the link in opposite directions may be enough. If it isn't the two bends don't need to be so severe. Keeping the lift pins horizontal greatly extends the life of the holes they go into.

 

Garry

Hi Garry....Thanks for the tips. I managed to shear one of the bolts this winter during plowing. Most likely while using down force on the blade. It sheared on the threaded section which I imagine was acting like a scored area. I am going to remake a new one this spring. My welding has greatly improved over the winter. I was also going to try using a grade 8 bolt.  I know welding tool steel is differet from welding hot rolled steel. Not sure how welding a grade 8 bolt will work. I'm just thinking it's not going to be fun drilling a relatively small hole in a grade 8 bolt. I'll keep you all posted. 👍🏻

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Grade 8 is much harder , and brittle as well . It won't wear near as easily , but can also fracture after welding due to brittlement....and good luck drilling it , use cobalt only .

Sarge

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Hi guys... Ok... I haven't attempted the lift bar yet but I have addressed the massive oil leak. I have a hole in one of the hydraulic hoses. It's the one that attaches to the top of the pump. Anyone know if replacements are possible?

Vid of the hole in the hose. 

 

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The exact replacements are no longer available and fittings seemingly proprietary or no longer stocked. Read over the attached thread. It may not answer all your questions but will put you on the correct path.

 

In essence you have to use a work-around solution.

 

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/59244-replacing-hydraulic-hose-on-electro-12/#comment-546504

 

 

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1 hour ago, BigRedGrizzly said:

Anyone know if replacements are possible?

Try here.

 

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Cool... Thanks guys. It seems the hoses migrated over towards the pump fan and the fam blades were striking the hose. Could have been so easily avoided. Frustrating 😡

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3 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Try here.

 

I just talked WheelHorseMan. He's got just what I need and is hooking me up. Thanks for the lead fellas. 👍🏻

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Tractor is looking Good!  :handgestures-thumbupright:

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53 minutes ago, BigRedGrizzly said:

I just talked WheelHorseMan. He's got just what I need and is hooking me up. Thanks for the lead fellas. 👍🏻

Must be new development. Last I spoke he did did not have them. Report back on fix.

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On 4/7/2017 at 11:20 PM, Aldon said:

Must be new development. Last I spoke he did did not have them. Report back on fix.

Hi Fellas... Well it's a fix for now. I replaced the hose with the one WheelHorseMan1000 made for me. I was going to replace the other hose as well since I was in there. However, there is a small issue that will need to be dealt with. The threaded opening where one attaches the hose to the pump is countersunk. The wrench size for the original hose is 16mm. I found that odd, but it was. And the new uses are 11/16. So, the countersink on the pump is not big enough to let the hose go all the way in. I realized as I was removing it and just tightened it back up again. I think the fix wouldn't be to bad if you have a drill press to make that pump countersink a little wider. There is an o-ring on the end of the hose that needs to seal. It looks like I was able to do that but you can see I had to tighten so much the it scraped the countersink edges. It's all buttoned up and so far no leaks. 🤞🏻

 

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Thanks for the update. Just thinking out loud but fully tearing it down to machine the housing sounds like a real PITA.

 

Maybe it would be easier to dremel grind the edges of the fitting so that it clears the countersunk edge. A potential work around to a complete disassembly.

 

Adding Lowell, as a heads up. @wheelhorseman1000

 

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Good to know - I forgot that gt pumps also have the counter sunken holes:confusion-confused: this is what I do for the pumps with the #5 ends on the pump (see picture) and had no issues.

@BigRedGrizzly if you would like I will send you out another set with the correction ( because it was my fault that I forgot)

 

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Edited by wheelhorseman1000
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51 minutes ago, wheelhorseman1000 said:

Good to know - I forgot that gt pumps also have the counter sunken holes:confusion-confused: this is what I do for the pumps with the #5 ends on the pump (see picture) and had no issues.

@BigRedGrizzly if you would like I will send you out another set with the correction ( because it was my fault that I forgot)

 

IMG_4576.JPG

Ahh... Thanks for the offer. I'm good to go now though. Good tip there though. If I ever need to replace that second hose I will grind bevels on the end as you have there. 👍🏻

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9 hours ago, Aldon said:

Maybe it would be easier to dremel grind the edges of the fitting so that it clears the countersunk edge. A potential work around to a complete disassembly.

I was thinking the same thing as I was following along.  :text-bravo:  Glad Wheelhoseman1000 has it worked out.

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Hi guys... Something went out on my key switch. The accessories position which allows the headlights and the electric PTO  engage is not working. It was allowing me start start the tractor but **** the bed yesterday afternoon. I by-passed the key switch and got her running. I also jumped the PTO to the battery and that works fine too. Both original switches for the PTO and lights are working. 

I'm having a hard time locating a 5 terminal key switch to match the original. I have found other but the lettering does not match on the terminals. Anyone know of a functional replacement?

 

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Garry is correct.

But so is everyone else. (Proud of their parts)

Toro - $69.34

RCPW - $67.45

PartsTree - $70.48

 

I guess you could try to find a used switch, but you roll the dice when you buy one, especially online.

At least with a new switch, you know what you've got.

I guess it depends if you want to swallow that hard or not.

I've been there before with some other parts, and sometimes that's all you can do.

Unfortunately.

Edited by ztnoo
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Hey Fellas... Thanks for the guidance... I ordered one from Amazon for $66.00. Once I get that switch squared away I have to figure out how to increase the tension on the belt. At a quick glance it looks like I can slide the pulley forward to increase tension. Either that or I have the wrong belt. I need to do some further investigating. Thanks again for the help..🥓

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6 minutes ago, BigRedGrizzly said:

At a quick glance it looks like I can slide the pulley forward to increase tension. Either that or I have the wrong belt.

5L-850 or a B-82 is the common belt size, I just replaced mine with a KB-82 kevlar belt from Tractor supple and it pulls better than ever.

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Which "belt" are you referring to???

Belt that drives the deck off the electric PTO?

Edited by ztnoo

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3 hours ago, ztnoo said:

Which "belt" are you referring to???

Belt that drives the deck off the electric PTO?

I figured he was talking about the belt to the Hydro.    :confusion-confused:

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I as well. 82-83 inch belt has worked best for me rather than 85.

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The B-82 and the 5L-85 are both 85" long and 5/8" wide belts, the ones at Tractor Supply have all three listed on the sleeve.

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