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On 8/29/2016 at 6:16 PM, BigRedGrizzly said:

 I'm lost. I painted everything so I wonder if I insulated a ground somewhere. Could it be that the engine sitting on the newly painted frame? I don't think so.

 

This is the pathway current would need to follow to get from the hood support to the engine and then the starter.

paint over any one of the connections between the body panels and you lose ground to your block

 

 

paint 2.png

paint 1.png

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Hey guys... Tonight was the night. I  opened the fuel valve, sprayed a couple shots of starter fluid into the air intake, and turned the key. It fired right up. A couple more shots of starter fluid and it was running on its own. Pulled the throttle in and out a few times and it responded perfectly. I pushed the hydro lever into reverse to test the trans and I got nothing. Moved it forward and got nothin. I was just about to get upset that it wasn't working when I thought I better check the parking brake. Yep, it was engaged. What relief. Now to complete the final assembly and the finishing touches/touch ups. 

 

Edited by BigRedGrizzly
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6 hours ago, roadapples said:

We never doubted you for a moment....:handgestures-thumbupright:

Not for a moment.......If you throw somthing.....just throw it out the door....lololollo

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I need to put another coat of paint on the hood so I just temporarily installed it for these pics. Once the hood is dry I'll be applying the decals. I also need to get a bulb for the right rear tail light. @Aldon When you get a chance, would you mind showing me the threaded rod you used for the hood latch? I thought I had sourced an original part but I didn't. So, I plan to use your method. 

Here are some more we pics. We love pics. 

C4E66454-751F-4AE7-AD9C-2BE3E6E25D67.jpg

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97C10885-D9C3-458B-A696-5B2190F787F3.jpg

DDC28318-A4E2-4832-B30A-94BE274B8349.jpg

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Just used all thread from Hardware store. With threaded end caps.

 

The steel is not tempered or as strong as back in the day so the latching does dot provide as much of a solid feel as the original. 

 

As as these tractors move slowly I feel no need to go to a larger diameter to get the stronger spring action. However I had considered going to slightly larger. 

 

The hardware stores here have these drawers with all sorts of things that would have been Neely impossible to find before Internet. I used to be a frequent McMaster Carr customer and they are my last resort these days. A couple purchases a year and the remainder either Amazon or local Ace.

 

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8 hours ago, Aldon said:

Just used all thread from Hardware store. With threaded end caps.

 

The steel is not tempered or as strong as back in the day so the latching does dot provide as much of a solid feel as the original. 

 

As as these tractors move slowly I feel no need to go to a larger diameter to get the stronger spring action. However I had considered going to slightly larger. 

 

The hardware stores here have these drawers with all sorts of things that would have been Neely impossible to find before Internet. I used to be a frequent McMaster Carr customer and they are my last resort these days. A couple purchases a year and the remainder either Amazon or local Ace.

 

Got it... Thanks, Aldon

Here's a vid of my daughter driving the GT14

 

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Looks like a pro!

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On September 3, 2016 at 1:00 PM, Aldon said:

Just used all thread from Hardware store. With threaded end caps.

 

The steel is not tempered or as strong as back in the day so the latching does dot provide as much of a solid feel as the original. 

 

As as these tractors move slowly I feel no need to go to a larger diameter to get the stronger spring action. However I had considered going to slightly larger. 

 

The hardware stores here have these drawers with all sorts of things that would have been Neely impossible to find before Internet. I used to be a frequent McMaster Carr customer and they are my last resort these days. A couple purchases a year and the remainder either Amazon or local Ace.

 

I took your advice and grabbed some threaded rod 3/16" in diameter. It was labeled 1/4-20. I cut a piece 15" and placed through the hood and the latch. I used those cap nuts as you recommended to give it a clean finish. I jut used some zip ties on either side of the latch to keep it centered on the rod. Thanks for the advice. 

C9D03436-FAE4-4F76-AC5F-C965A2C6D80A.jpg

37EC77DF-D4A2-4213-B2A1-A98C271C6446.jpg

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Looks great!

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On 8/6/2016 at 10:47 PM, BigRedGrizzly said:

Ok... I figured it out. I am missing a bracket. I think I'm going to make one. 

Check with WheelHorseMan1000 in the vendors if you haven't made 1 he sold me reproduction of the original.

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Hi Fellas... All the lights, switches,and the electric PTO seem to be working fine. It took me a while to figure out the key had to be rotated back one notch to the accessory position to work. I kind of figured it out by accident when pressed the cigarette lighter in and it popped out. It was HOT! So I guess the ground issue was only to the engine.

   I can't get that darn steering wheel to budge. There's always one major hiccup in a project. This is a big one too b/c I can't get a new dash on with out cutting in half. I would hate to have to do that. On a good note I hooked up the 3 point and that seems to be working fine. I'm looking for a draw bar I can put a ball on.  I'm thinking about ordering the 7 hole draw bar and the draw bar clips from this place. 

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/

Here's a vid of the 3 point. 

 

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Hi Fellas... Well I finally started pulling the plow together and getting it ready for snow. The articulating bracket which allows the blade to turn left and right was bent badly enough to not let it turn completely to the left. The pin to secure in the position wasn't even close to the hole. A little work with a Mapp gas torch and a sledge hammer and we were back to straight again. 

  I recently sold my 1993 CR250 which I know I will regret soon.

 

I made some money on the deal which afforded me to finally purchase a welder. 

I got a Lincoln Electric 140 Mig which has the option to run gas. Currently I'm just using the .035 flux core that came with it. Never had an official lesson except for what YouTube has to offer which is quite a lot actually. My to favorite channels are ChuckE2009 and Welding tips and Tricks. Excellent resources. 

 

Anyway... so the plow I got was set up with some custom brackets to attach it to the rear axle. It was making use of those clevis pins to hold it in place. I happen to have the proper attachment bracket but it would not fit with those clevis pins. So the answer was to remove the pins and weld the rod in place which I did. Just little welds in case I choose to make it removable again. Here are some pics of me doing that. 

 

Got some tire chains on order. 

Edited by BigRedGrizzly
Problems with pics
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On ‎10‎/‎9‎/‎2016 at 3:53 PM, BigRedGrizzly said:

got a Lincoln Electric 140 Mig which has the option to run gas. Currently I'm just using the .035 flux core that came with it.

I highly recommend switching over to the gas. I'm sure by now you have experienced the nasty splatter that comes with using flux core wire. When you use solid wire with the gas your welds will come out a lot cleaner and you will have less weld spatter. Note: When using the gas wind can be your enemy, wind can blow the gas away from your work causing your weld not to stick or burn in correctly. I sometimes am forced to close the door on the garage in order to get a decent weld.

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59 minutes ago, achto said:

I highly recommend switching over to the gas. I'm sure by now you have experienced the nasty splatter that comes with using flux core wire. When you use solid wire with the gas your welds will come out a lot cleaner and you will have less weld spatter. Note: When using the gas wind can be your enemy, wind can blow the gas away from your work causing your weld not to stick or burn in correctly. I sometimes am forced to close the door on the garage in order to get a decent weld.

Thank you for the tip. I definitely want to go the gas route b/c that spatter is a PITA. Do you use the mix or the straight gas?

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42 minutes ago, BigRedGrizzly said:

Do you use the mix or the straight gas?

I use an argon / carbon dioxide mix for most common welding. Your local welding supplier should be able to set you up, just tell them what type of welding you plan on doing. Example: to weld stainless you will need to change wire and gas. I have a medium size tank, my rental on the tank is around $45 a year. Most of the time when I need to refill they will just exchange tanks with me. Plus side of renting is that I don't have to pay for inspections or updates on the tank at an inopportune time. 

Edited by achto
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I recently purchased a welder and began teaching myself how to use it. I'm using a Mig with fluxcore filler. I needed to make a bracket that would connect my plow to the lift point on my tractor. I used a 1/4"X3/4" piece of steel, drilled a hole for some bolts to go through and welded them in place. I then drilled holes in the bolts for the retainer spring clips. I love doing these little projects that make a BIG difference. I also painted up my 3point. These are for my GT14. 

BCF5E3C9-D646-4074-9991-D0F3565F600D.jpg

 

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794AA9EC-0BD4-4422-B7B2-A4D6650951E4.jpg

 

D89F72A6-0444-43FA-8C27-0F28CA364136.jpg

Edited by BigRedGrizzly
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Looks awesome. I bought a GT 14 last week, and want to do the same. First, I am getting the engine running right with a carb tuneup.

 

your post is inspirational!

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If you are looking for more inspiration concerning GT 14 restorations, check this fantastic thread out:

 

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Happy Birthday!

:hbd:

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