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BigRedGrizzly

1970 GT14 Resto

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Fun Engineer

Nice job and good idea big red. You did a great job keeping overspray off the tire. 

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Bert

Looking good:handgestures-thumbupright:

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SylvanLakeWH

So that's how you "mark" your cards...:ph34r:

 

:ROTF:

 

Great idea! Looks perfect!

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Achto

Cool trick! I've been painting for years and I've never seen a card trick like that.

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DennisThornton

Shucks!  I like it!

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BigRedGrizzly

Hi all... Reassembly is beginning. I still have some painting to do, but today I mounted the front tires and connected the rear to the the frame.

it was so hot here in NJ today. Oppressive, I tell you... Just couldn't get much work done. Needed Air Conditioning immediately.. 

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Tomorrow I'm going to pickup a 42" snow plow. It's my understanding that it is a long frame plow but may not fit a GT14 without any modifications. So I may be doing a thread on that in the future of things don't as easily as I would like. 

Edited by BigRedGrizzly
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BigRedGrizzly

Hi all.... No major update here... Still painting. All the wheels and tires are done.. Basically all the fenders are a painted... Just have the dash and the heavy nose left to paint. I'm looking forward to getting the front axle mounted so I can at least have a rolling chassis. 

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I have painted over the grease zerks so I will have clean them up to be able to use them. If it becomes a problem I suppose I can just put new ones in. 

Here are a few pics of the snow plow I got. 

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Aldon

Did you add bracing to support the fenders? From the angle it's grd to see for certain.

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BigRedGrizzly
12 hours ago, Aldon said:

Did you add bracing to support the fenders? From the angle it's grd to see for certain.

 

Unfortunately, I did not. I didn't even get them welded/repaired  yet. The local welder has blown me off 3 times so far. My time frame doesn't allow me a lot of down time. It will be addressed but will have to be done at a later time. I hate doing things that way but... :(

 

 

 

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BigRedGrizzly

Continuing with the reassembly. I am happy to have it rolling now so I can move it in and out of the garage. These past couple weeks it's felt like a oven in that garage. 

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Edited by BigRedGrizzly
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Aldon

High heat and humidity make working on tractors tough right now and it takes real resolve to push through my minds thoughts of sitting in AC and relaxing. But I can't keep kicking the can down the road. There is always some reSon to procrastinate! LOL

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BigRedGrizzly

Hi Fellas... I managed to get a few nor pieces put together today after work. I'm heavily relying on all the pictures I have taken for reassembly. There is a lot going on in that tunnel and referring to pics makes it much quicker. I'm trying to decide whether to remake the wiring harness or just use what I have. The existing seems to be in pretty good shape but I remember reading someone re did theirs and used marine grade wire. I'd like to have that. 

My engine is very greasy and dirty. I suppose I will have spray it with mineral spirits and wire brush it. Then power wash it. Then I'll paint it the best I can. 

Here are some pics from today. 

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Aldon

I went route of marine grade re-wire. If your wiring is good then it is a toss up as I don't think the wiring takes much abuse. However, the connectors seem to reach a fatigue or corroded state so you may want to consider new crimp connectors.

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BigRedGrizzly

Ok.. Definitely will consider the connectors when I get a closer look. I'm starting to get to that point now. I need to start getting the wiring into place here soon. I worked on the tractor pretty early this morning. I had my hands dirty by 7:15AM. I knew it was going to rain around noon today so I got an early start.  I'm glad I did because as 10AM rolled around it became extremely hot humid. Unbearable. The paint doesn't hold up well either. Easily scratches. Soft.  I got pretty much all of the tunnel back together and lubed the heck out of everything I could as it was assembled. 

Heres some pics from today. 

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Tuneup

Yeah, it's the only negative of the rattle can today - lack of hardener. Makes it flow nicely but takes forever to harden. Mine's the same - Rust O'Leum Regal Red. If I tackle another one, I'll learn to run a mix and spray it all the pro way.

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BigRedGrizzly

Hi Fellas... I was in Walmart this morning picking up some engine degreaser when I noticed the display of oil filters. I was going to pick one up as I plan to replace the oil in the rear. I started searching the forum and my manual and found a part# that looks like Toro doesn't have anymore. What are you all doing for the replacement filter?  Is there an after-market filter that we can use?

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oldredrider

NAPA Filter #1410 is the one you need.

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BigRedGrizzly
1 hour ago, oldredrider said:

NAPA Filter #1410 is the one you need.

Thanks, Oldredrider...:handgestures-thumbupright:

I sarted on the engine today. That is one greasy horse heart.  Thing we're coming apart nicely until I had to remove the perforated fly wheel protector. Man O man where those suckers tight and locked up. I used some PB Blaster, hand held impact screw driver, large dead blow hammer, and the always (or mostly) successful tool, the vice grips.  I eventually got everything off and began degreasing. I used engine degreaser and odorless mineral spirits. It seemed to clean up pretty well. As I was cleaning and disassembling a 22LR round fell out some where. I quickly disposed of that. I live in NJ. If some one catches wind of a round at someone's house the damn SWAT TEAM and FBI will raid your house.  Lol.... Not really.. But NJ is unreasonable. 

I managed to clean one side up pretty good. It was the dirtiest/greasiest side. The gasket between the carb and the engine is wasted. I'll need to get a new one some where. I'll disassemble the carb and soak it in that carb cleaner that comes in a 1 gallon paint can. I think it's called Berryman's carb soak. I'll let it sit over night and reassemble. I'm also going to replace the fuel lines. They are pretty hard and seem like they are going to crack at any minute. 

Here are some pics from today. 

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BigRedGrizzly

Well... I got into the carb today. It was pretty nasty. I don't know how this thing ran as well as it did. I disassembled it and put it in to soak for 24 hours in ChemDip. 

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We will see how clean it looks tomorrow when I take it out. I need to order a rebuild kit anyway because I need the bowl gasket. 

I'm think about getting one of these two and the carb gasket. 

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Tuneup

That chem dip is the bomb. Cleaned a cycle carb with that stuff. Came out like new. It will destroy anything not metal so be sure the grommets and felt seals are taken out - maybe the choke and throttle areas. eBay is always your friend!

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WHX??
29 minutes ago, Tuneup said:

That chem dip is the bomb.

Agreed ..just did a plugged up little walbro from a weed wacker the other day and good as new. And they say its not as good as it used to be because they had to make it envronmental friendly, the old stuff musta been really something.. never be with out a can of it!

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BigRedGrizzly

Hi Fellas... I pulled the carb out of the ChemDip around 5:30 this evening. I rinsed off with water and sprayed all the parts down with carb cleaner and blew out all the orafices. Looks pretty clean to me. I learned that this a Walbro 4705312 carb. It's my understanding that the Carter Carbs are much better. If this one craps out I may purchase one from EBay. 

Here are some pics of the carb after they have been cleaned up. 

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Tuneup

A little Brasso will make those needles gleam. It's all about the 'little things'.

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953 nut
On 7/31/2016 at 2:28 PM, BigRedGrizzly said:

coming apart nicely until I had to remove the perforated fly wheel protector. Man O man where those suckers tight and locked up.

A bit late for this one, but file this away for reassembly time. High temperature thread-locker was used on these machine screws; warming them up with a torch will break the bond and you can break them free while warm. When it goes back together you will want to use some.

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