Thisguyisnew 114 #26 Posted July 5, 2016 (edited) Try changing spark plug if you have not already. And that goes same for the condenser in kits Edited July 5, 2016 by Thisguyisnew Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sokniw 13 #27 Posted July 5, 2016 Just now, Thisguyisnew said: Try changing spark plug if you have not already. My rebuild kit came with a new one, possible its just a crap plug? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thisguyisnew 114 #29 Posted July 5, 2016 More likely the condenser in kit is bad though. I got a bad spark plug with a non oem kit just the other day and I'm using old spark plug till I get another new one but I keep hearing condensers arrive no good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sokniw 13 #30 Posted July 5, 2016 Just now, Thisguyisnew said: More likely the condenser in kit is bad though. I got a bad spark plug with a non oem kit just the other day and I'm using old spark plug till I get another new one but I keep hearing condensers arrive no good I will replace that also, will try to adjust the points again, and a new plug and condensor and see what happens. Than i will dig deeper into it, before when i placed my hand over the intake on the carb, i would feel a little more suction, now i can barely feel any, if i take the carb off and place my hand over the intake the carb was mounted too i can feel suction. Not sure if this is just me and not important or a possible sign of something. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thisguyisnew 114 #31 Posted July 5, 2016 right now you are over thinking it. When my spark plug was bad I thought it was not getting gas or float wasn't working so took carb apart... try the simple first Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sokniw 13 #32 Posted July 16, 2016 Alrigt Update.. I think i found my problem, only 1 valve is moving. Before when doing all this rebuild both valves moved, now only 1 is rotating. Could a lobe be worn on the CAM and need to be replaced or is the Valved more likely to be broke. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,679 #33 Posted July 16, 2016 9 minutes ago, Sokniw said: only 1 valve is moving. Is the valve that is not moving opened or closed? 10 minutes ago, Sokniw said: Could a lobe be worn on the CAM and need to be replaced It ran well prior to throwing a rod, chances are the cam is not bad. Could be an adjustment or a valve spring keeper not installed properly. Remove the cover on the valve springs and see what is going on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sokniw 13 #34 Posted July 16, 2016 Its closed, i didnt change any of these adjustments. Like i said before, this valve that is no longer moving, After i put the piston in it was still moving i made sure of it, but it would slam closed unlike the other one that still moves seems to go from open to close in a smooth transition, the one that is no longer moving would open, and then fall shut like it was just being released and the spring was expanding as fast as it could. I don't think it its the cam either, but now i gotta figure the next steps out, i took off the head to see if it was stuck open or shut, now its shut, and still under load of the spring, like i cant just take the valve out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #35 Posted July 16, 2016 Sounds to me from everything you have described, when the piston rod broke, it took out your cam shaft. Points plunger, which controls spark, and fuel pump issues, are both dependant on the cam... There is very little clearance between the rod cap and the cam on an 8hp Kohler. Typically, when a rod lets go on these, it will damage the cam. You will need to disassemble the engine and remove the cam for inspection. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,679 #36 Posted July 16, 2016 23 hours ago, 953 nut said: Remove the cover on the valve springs and see what is going on. Have you looked at the lifter area? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sokniw 13 #37 Posted August 10, 2016 Sorry guys been busy with summer stuff and kids, this weekend i'm going to pull the block off the oil pan and see whats going on underneath. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sokniw 13 #38 Posted August 13, 2016 looks like a i need a new cam shaft, there is a metal sleeft that goes between both of the lobes on the cam and it looks sheered off and only one lobe is spinning, how do you remove the cam shaft? do i need to remove the crankshaft also? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #39 Posted August 13, 2016 Yes, you will need to remove the crank shaft. Be for you start disassembling the engine, do yourself a HUGE favor and download the Kohler service manual. Everything you need to know about disassembling and assembling is clearly defined. File can be found on the Kohler web site...free.download. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,679 #40 Posted August 13, 2016 Here it is. Kohler_Guide_To_Engine_Rebuilding_19890900.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sokniw 13 #41 Posted August 30, 2016 (edited) another silly question, on the path to purchasing a new cam shaft. should any camshaft out of a K181 work? Also was reading through the manual, will a harmonic Balancer work to pull the flywheel off, and alternatives to a strap wrench when pulling the bolt from the flywheel initially. Edited August 30, 2016 by Sokniw Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,147 #42 Posted August 30, 2016 The harmonic balancer puller should work. Impact wrench will usually get the flywheel bolt with out a strap wrench. Torquing it back on is another matter. B&S has a tool that jams the flywheel by hooking on 2 fins. (see picture) Before I had a strap wrench I did what Kohler says you shouldn't do wedged something in the fins to torque it and never had a problem. I would absolutely not try wedging the fins for the loosening process. If the nut is corroded you will develop much more force trying to break it free than the recommend torque and you may break a fin. Strap wrenches are a lot cheaper than flywheels. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sokniw 13 #43 Posted August 30, 2016 awesome i see there is a bunch of tools out there to hold the flywheel in place. Just need to somehow makesure the camshaft is the right one, i think when i put the new piston and connecting rod on it was hitting the camshaft and thats what broke it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sokniw 13 #44 Posted September 4, 2016 Alright i need help, i am having issues getting my cranskshaft out there is this slide guide on the crankshaft i cant get out and im trying to avoid damaging the bearing in there, i might have already. how do you get that groved guide out of the crankshaft so it will get passed the bearing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,147 #45 Posted September 4, 2016 It is 1/4" straight key sitting in a keyway. Soak it with PB Blaster or Kroil Then try vice grips to rock it out. If no go try hitting the end of the key with a punch don't drive it into the block but the keyway should be tapered up at the end and then the key should start to move up a bit then try agan with the vice grips. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sokniw 13 #46 Posted September 5, 2016 So i understand.. it should just slide out.. lol i got it soaking ill keep spraying it with pentrating oil to see it i can get it to come out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sokniw 13 #47 Posted September 11, 2016 Alright I got it running finally. Niw I gott a figure out the reassembly of the pto clutch. I am using 15w40 oil wh at is best to use on these engines? A ttached 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,679 #48 Posted September 11, 2016 Now that you got it running you will never get it back from the wife and kids, they are having too much fun! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sokniw 13 #49 Posted September 14, 2016 Still wondering, what is the best year round oil for the K181. I have 15w40 in it right now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,498 #50 Posted September 14, 2016 That information is best obtained from the manufacture's operator manual. 15W40 is not one of them. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites