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psalms83:18

my 400 suburban rebuild

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Racinbob

No problem. I do the same thing all the time. :D

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stevasaurus

Psalms, you need to get that bearing race off of that mushroom gear.  Your new bearing will not fit with that there, and the new bearing has that part with it.  :)  You can still keep this thread going and ask questions and post pictures.  We will have access to the site from the motel and can keep up with you.  :handgestures-thumbupright:  Listen, tap out that roll pin holding your reverse idler and clean that up.  That shaft comes out of that gear.  Take notice of which way that gear is positioned on that shaft.  I think, in the 3 piece transmissions, it does not make a difference which way that gear goes back in.  If it is the same on both ends, it does not make a difference.  It does in the 2 piece transmissions.  :)  That bearing inside the end of your input shaft looks like it is toast.  You need to replace that. 

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psalms83:18

JAKE KUHN... GOOD MAN!! :bow-blue:

:thanks:

 

he includes that bearing in this input gear! Contact him if u want the complete set...

 

 

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nhmikel

Did you get this bearing out? Can someone show a pic of the tool to remove this one?

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WHX??

You would need a blind hole bearing puller nhmikel

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psalms83:18

While I wait for a buddy to cut the bearings out of the side plate. I was working on a plow frame and left the springs in the acid and wow check it out.. U could not of convinced me prior to soaking it that there was ANY paint left on it and you can tell the brown end has no look of paint....yes the brown end was out of the acid and the paint showed up after coming out of the phos and still dripping wet with phos

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WheelHorseNut

Wow -- that's amazing.  Is it rust on that brown end or just shmutz?

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psalms83:18

Mostly all rust

gonna weld up some angle iron in this hub bracket thing for the plow.... It's alll sloppy in the holes and has some extra holes from the rust. I just need it strengthened for some dirt pushin.

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psalms83:18

The welding went good for that hub piece

 

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psalms83:18

Wow it's nice to have something to write about again. Sucks to say it's not done yet though...

had to cut every bearing out! Then they just crumbled when tapped with a hammer..

i got it all back together then ... the new bolt threads were off by 1/8" and when all the bolts tightened it snapped one of the new welds. And I was sooo happy to have it all back together and on the last bolt when I felt it snap.:bitch:

 

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psalms83:18

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So the shaft on the rear end has some loose play on the key and the bolt hole

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The front tires that came with it were definitely not the right rims so I threw on these snowblower rims for now and they fit perfectly!! And they look good

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gwest_ca

A trick to remove outer bearing races when they are stuck in a bore. If you have an electric welder run a bead of weld about 1/2 way around the race where the balls run. The race will turn red hot. Let it cool and the race should fall out. Make sure the ground clamp is on the metal that has secured the race. You don't want welding current travelling through good bearings or gears. The heat of the weld shrinks the bearing metal so give it time to cool.

 

Garry

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psalms83:18

trick to remove outer bearing races when they are stuck in a bore. If you have an electric welder run a bead of weld about 1/2 way around the race where the balls run

 

 

 

definetly would of tried that!

 

im missing the lug bolts and it seems they were beveled. Anyone got an extra set?

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