419XT Mower uneven cutting

[Gilster 0]

Greetings all. new to the forum and new to Toro lawn tractors.

 

Was given a 419XT a couple years back from my father. From what I can find out I think its around a 2004 model and has only a hundred or so hours on it. Its in really good condition and can tell it was hardly ever worked. I have never really used it for grass cutting because the quality just sucks. Uneven, scalping, just really inconsistent. Its really bad when I turn corners.

 

I had a small engine shop do a tune up recently and they could not figure out why it cuts so bad. I have it on the highest setting and it still cuts too short. If its on the lowest setting it will cut dirt!

 

I have gone thru all the manuals and read about levelling etc... everything checks out. When the deck is lowered in to the cutting position the front wheels (anti-scalp wheels) don't touch the ground and there is a lot of play in the support system. I can press down on the front of the deck with my foot and move it up and down a few inches on both sides left to right. It seems really loose. Is this normal?

 

Anything else I should be checking that may be the cause?

 

Thanks.

[Don1977 604]

Have you tried leveling the deck, I'm guessing that it's too low in the front. It should only be 1/2" or less lower in the front. The model number on the deck will help locate a manual  for your deck. I'm not sure if it's mounted the same way as the older classic GT.

[Gilster 0]

Thanks.

 

Yes, its all level and tire pressure is even. Just seems really sloppy.

 

I may have some more time to look at it this weekend.

 

I like the idea I have seen of larger wheels on the deck or even the castors on the front.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478]

What is the model number and the serial number on the deck?

 

Garry

[Gilster 0]

Model No - 78290

Ser No 230000838

 

Thanks

[clip 185]

The anti-scalp wheels should only contact the ground when they hit a rise like a small hill or bump, they're not intended to support the deck while mowing. Only the two rear wheels that set the height are in contact at all times. What's your blade height at the front when it's aligned with the long axis of the mower? I'm thinking something is mounted incorrectly that reduces the blade distance to the ground if your highest setting is still too short.

 

The deck should be able to float side to sidesomewhat when it's up in the air so feeling loose is not uncommon. It should retract up under the mower and put pressure on the rubber stops when in the transport position to keep from swinging around while moving.

[Gilster 0]

Thanks clip

 

The blade height at the front of the mower in the highest position is roughly 3 - 3-1/2".

 

The deck does sit correctly on the rubber stops when in transport position.

 

Its very bad when turning corners.

 

 

[clip 185]

According to the manual, your height of cut is correct (adj. from 1 1/2 - 3 1/2 inches). On my attachment bar, there were two spacers/sleeves intended to center the bracket on the mid-mount under the mower frame. One of these had worn down quite a bit and I needed to add some metal with the torch to keep it centered. If your bar is worn (doubtful with low hours) it would have enough play to tip side-side while mowing.

 

Another possibility is a warped mower deck shell.

[Gilster 0]

Thanks clip. I will check that out.

[Don1977 604]

That much difference I would look to see if the out side blades are upside down.

[Gilster 0]

So I had a chance to do some more investigating finally. Turns out the blades were out over 1-1/2" from one side to the other.

 

Couple issues:

-the height adjustment on the right side wheel was at the bottom so I moved that all the way to the top and re-measured, only out by 3/4" or so.

-noticed the bar that has the wheel on each side to adjust cut height was slightly bent and also twisted, you can look down the length of it and see the twist from one end to the other.

 

I am going to replace the wheels with slightly larger diameter which will enable me to achieve a higher cut as well as compensate for the twisted bar by lowering the right side a bit.

 

Also had a chance to clean it up a bit. Everything else seemed to be in good shape considering its 10+ years old I think.

 

Thanks for all the input.

 

 

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

From the picture, it appears your wheel support bracket  (106-4096) is your uneven cut problem. Somehow the gage wheel bracket on one of the sides has "slipped" on the axle. It either was knocked out of alignment or somehow the deck was used as a stepping point The gage wheels have bushings that may be worn and/or the shoulder bolt as well. Replacement wheels and shoulder bolts would help in that case.

 

With installing a larger gage wheel on the 48" deck, you may run into a clearance problem with the tractor's rear wheels.

[doc724 924]

Your problem is that the deck has been sprung.  Take a look at your photos.  The deck leveling wheels as you so observed are whacked.  The only solution is to either buy a new one or twist it back into position.  Second, the rear baffle on the underside of the deck may have been broken and rewelded (look at your last pic, upper left-is that a new weld in there?)  If that was not put back in the correct spot, the weld needs to be removed, the deck straightened and rewelded.  Finally, check the hard points (the place where the rear axle leveling wheels mount).  Those two uprights should be parallel to each other.  My bet is the one on the exit side is tipped inward (toward the deck).  If you have to straighten the deck, you cannot do it by whacking it, you have to mechanically deform it.  Finally, you can only check level properly from under the deck, not the top of the deck.  Impossible to measure under there so make some gage blocks out of a 2x3 at 1/8 inch height increments, from 2 1/2 inches to 3" and slide them under there with blades north-south and east to west (just like the manual shows)

[Gilster 0]

doc724 its not a new weld, its just dirt and crud. The deck and tractor itself are in awesome condition. The deck is not "sprung" its just the levelling wheel assembly is twisted and slightly bent. The "hard points" or uprights where the wheel assembly mounts are perfect. No sign of damage or out of parallel(ism?). Your method for checking the blade level is exactly what I did as there is only about 2" to slide your hand under to do so.

[doc724 924]

Good, sounds like you are being quite thorough.  I would try to straighten out the leveling wheel assembly.  A big vise on one end and a long lever bolted to the other end should allow you to put enough torsion onto the rod to twist it back into position.  A 20# sledge should be able to straighten it nicely.  Keep us posted on the result!

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

Instead of cutting blocks of wood, get one of these to measure the height of the blades. You slip it under the edge and read the opposite end. It is my only piece of JD equipment. 

 

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,021]

John , where did you get that Deere do dad ?

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

1 hour ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

John , where did you get that Deere do dad ?

 

They are sold by a few manufacturers. It should be under $10.00.

 

Stens 750-442 Deck Leveling Gauge; John Deere AM130907; MTD 490-900-0041; Cub Cadet 490-900-0041

[Gadget 37]

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/63198-48-sd-mower-leveling/

 

 

Here's how I finally got mine to cut level at the highest possible point.

Hope it helps

Edited May 20, 2016 by Gadget
had to correct the link

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,021]

17 hours ago, shallowwatersailor said:

 

They are sold by a few manufacturers. It should be under $10.00.

 

Stens 750-442 Deck Leveling Gauge; John Deere AM130907; MTD 490-900-0041; Cub Cadet 490-900-0041

Thanks , that may come in handy. You can never have enough do dads