ryanmfairbank 26 #1 Posted May 10, 2016 Greetings! I just acquired a 1977 B80 8-speed Wheel Horse (K181), and I'm new to this forum...I am having problems with the motor surging under load and stalling...running the motor in any gear with the PTO disengaged, it runs great...I pulled a cart full of mulch around our property all weekend with no problems...but, yesterday, when I attempted to cut the grass, it surged and stalled...I pulled the carb and cleaned it thoroughly, but the problem remains! So, I want to just purchase a new carb, rebuild the fuel pump, and replace the fuel lines and fuel filter...I need to cut the grass on our large property all summer, and depend on this tractor to plow snow here in northern PA all winter...my question is, what are your go-to sites to purchase parts? We live in a very rural area, and the only parts store nearby cannot order a new carb for me. I also welcome any and all suggestions in regards to my surging problem... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #2 Posted May 10, 2016 (edited) Same issue here on a k181. I've been eyeballing Ebay for replacement carbs for under $50. Ebay search = k181 kohler carb Edited May 10, 2016 by RedRanger Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,440 #3 Posted May 10, 2016 Rebuilding your fuel pump is not always as easy as it should be. Kohler and the larger aftermarket companies have stopped making rebuild kits for the pumps. I would suggest just replacing the fuel pump instead. psep.biz has them at a reasonable price. Unfortunately OEM & aftermarket pumps are plastic now, but I've had good luck so far with an aftermarket one that I installed. They have new carbs too but not under $50. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #4 Posted May 10, 2016 Thanks for the response and suggestions...I actually found a website through a post on this forum for a company in Massachusetts that makes custom fuel pump rebuild kits for $27.95...so, I think I will give it a try... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skrusins 128 #5 Posted May 10, 2016 I have a B80 and installed an electric fuel pump with a off and on switch problem solved. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #6 Posted May 10, 2016 Would you tell me where you purchased the parts, and give a brief explanation of the installation? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,807 #7 Posted May 10, 2016 Search electric fuel pump. I have 2 threads detailing the installation on a C-160. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #8 Posted May 11, 2016 Alright guys...just ordered a new carburetor, in-line fuel filter, and air filter from Everest Parts Supplies (Florida) ... here is a link to the carburetor itself... Also...I purchased the fuel pump rebuild kit from Then And Now Automotive , a company in Massachusetts that custom makes fuel pump rebuild kits for Kohler and other brands of motors... I'm sitting at the dining room table watching the grass grow, so hopefully I'll be up and running by this weekend! I'll let you know how it goes... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #9 Posted May 11, 2016 I also used one of the pump rebuild kits from then and now. Worked just fine. Just make sure you ordered the correct kit. There is a kit for a vacuum pump and one for a mechanical pump. Let us know how the carb works out. That's the same one I see on Ebay. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coadster32 793 #10 Posted May 12, 2016 Great links Thanks for sharing. Late to the party, but you can get parts from Pats Small Engine Supply as well. http://www.psep.biz/index.htm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #11 Posted May 14, 2016 Red Ranger...how do you remove the old filters from these pumps?! It looks like the metal is stamped around them... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,851 #12 Posted May 14, 2016 What you are calling filters are actually cages that hold the little one-way valves in place. Sometimes they are impossible to remove without damage, but you should be able to get them out with needle nose pliers and a small prying device like a screw driver. Your kit should include new cages, valves, springs, and diaphragm. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #13 Posted May 15, 2016 (edited) You're right rmaynard....I'm learning and I apologize for my wording...the factory valves were installed in the pump, and then the cylinder walls above the valves are "stamped" on two sides of each cylinder to hold them in place, and thereby preventing their removal... If I were able to remove them, which would require filing the places that are stamped in, what would hold the new valves in place? btw rmaynard, I see that you are from the great state of Maryland! I was born and raised, and live most of my life on the Eastern Shore (Talbot County)...thank you for your service as well! Edited May 15, 2016 by ryanmfairbank Update Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,476 #14 Posted May 15, 2016 (edited) On 5/10/2016 at 0:00 PM, ryanmfairbank said: Greetings! I'm new to this forum Welcome to Red Square Neat little town you're in . Haven't been there in years but I do know how you pronounce it ( RAH - lett ) Edited May 15, 2016 by Digger 66 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,870 #15 Posted May 15, 2016 8 hours ago, ryanmfairbank said: the factory valves were installed in the pump, and then the cylinder walls above the valves are "stamped" on two sides of each cylinder to hold them in place, and thereby preventing their removal... If I were able to remove them, which would require filing the places that are stamped in, what would hold the new valves in place? If your new kit comes with new little cages (check valves) then you can just pry the old valves out without having to worry about destroying them. That way the stamped edges will hold in the new ones. Maybe use a small socket that fits so your tapping them in by the rim. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #16 Posted May 15, 2016 Unfortunately, the new valves will not pass the stamped edges of the cylinders... Fortunately though, the primary problem with the fuel pump is the diaphragm, which I was able to replace... I cleaned the inside of the fuel tank, and disassembled and cleaned the petcock...installed new fuel lines and fuel filter...installed an in-line fuel shutoff switch...and reinstalled the fuel pump...the new carb should be here tomorrow and I'll be up and running! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,870 #17 Posted May 15, 2016 So I assume you didn't change them. Just be sure those old check valves are "checking". They should only allow flow in one direction (towards the carb) and check (stop) the flow in the other direction. You can have the best diaphragm ever but if the check valves don't work, it will just pulse fuel back and forth in the fuel line. The valves don't need to totally seal 100% for the pump to work, but the better they do, the better it will pump. Easiest way to test those valves is to connect a clean piece of hose to the fuel fittings and try to blow/suck air through them. You should notice quite a bit of resistance in one direction if they are sealing. If air passes easily in both directions, the valves are not working. Pump should be clean with no fuel in the pump while doing this or you could taste gas! Please let me know if you don't need those valves which came with the new kit. I'd like to test fit them into a pump and see if there's a way to make them fit into the pumps easier. I have one I ruined the cages in trying to get them out. I'd be interested in that old carb too, so if you want to recoup some of your cost, just shoot me a PM. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #18 Posted May 23, 2016 Alright guys...sorry for the delay in my response, but here is an update on my progress......I installed the new carb, replaced the diaphragm in my fuel pump, installed all new fuel line, replaced the in-line fuel filter, installed an in-line fuel shutoff valve, replaced the air filter, and cleaned the inside of the fuel tank and petcock......so, it's running 100% better! I still need to dial the new carb in a bit, but it's running so much better than before! Now...I need to tackle a wiring issue! Anyhow...thanks for everyone's input!!! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
