RedRanger 1,468 #1 Posted May 5, 2016 How well will a Kohler K181 run if the tab on its governor cross shaft is missing? I disassembed the governor on my K181 to change out the speed control disc and if memory serves right, this entire shaft was able to come out the hole? Didn't give it much thought at the time, but now that it's all back together and running, I can't seem to get full RPM range. It starts fine and idles fine. Mid RPM is fine. I'm getting surging at high rpm and don't seem to be getting full 3000+rpm. Any thoughts? I've played with running the high speed carb adjuster rich. Doesn't seem to matter. I've adjusted the governor, doesn't seem to matter. Seems if that tab was missing, the engine would want to run wide open? No? I don't have that problem. The governor shaft also stops when you turn it counter clockwise. If the tab was missing, wouldn't the shaft just spin? I'm confused. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #2 Posted May 6, 2016 Nobody? Really? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #3 Posted May 6, 2016 (edited) When you reassembled the governor gear, did you put the bushing on the stub shaft 1st? I've torn down motors that were put back together without it and had rpm issues. If you could pull the governor shaft out from the outside, there is a broken tab and it will never run right. Edited May 6, 2016 by oldredrider Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #4 Posted May 6, 2016 12 minutes ago, oldredrider said: When you reassembled the governor gear, did you put the bushing on the stub shaft 1st? I've torn down motors that were put back together without it and had rpm issues. If you could pull the governor shaft out from the outside, there is a broken tab and it will never run right. I don't clearly recall. Guess I'm disassembling the governor to see if the shaft comes out or not. If so, and it has no tab on it, then what? Do I have to disassemble the entire engine to get to the innards of the governor? I've never messed with governors more than adjusting them. Guess I'm about to get self edjamukaded? Thanks for your input @oldredrider. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #5 Posted May 6, 2016 Some people have claimed to have replaced governor shafts without tearing down the motor. It would be a 3 handed proposition using long tweezers and magnetic tools with a whole lot of luck. Easier, in my book, to just take it back down and check everything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,040 #6 Posted May 6, 2016 The governor is the part Kohler built the rest of the motor around...sort of like WH built the D series around the hydro pump 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #7 Posted May 6, 2016 15 minutes ago, pfrederi said: The governor is the part Kohler built the rest of the motor around...sort of like WH built the D series around the hydro pump You're not helping things here! I'll have time tomorrow to mess with it. See what I can figure out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,770 #8 Posted May 6, 2016 You can weld a tab on the shaft. The broken piece on mine was in the oil pan. I got one in without taking it apart. It took some time to figure the puzzle out and LOTS of curse words but it went! One of those little springy pick up grabber things really helped 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #9 Posted May 9, 2016 Good news Bad news. Good news, my governor is fine. Shaft is perfect and is operating correctly. Bad news, still have high RPM surge and carb shuts fuel off at idle after a minute or so of idling. Also need to choke at both cold and hot starts to fire. Fuel pump is pumping perfectly as is the governor. This engine sat for 25 years. The fuel system had lots of white dusty material in the fuel pump and float bowl. Carb has been soaked in chem-dip for a week, cleaned, and rebuilt. Low idle screw is about 2.5 turns out. Starts and idles smoothly. (always needs some choke to fire though, even once warmed up) High idle screw is about 4 turns out and still has some surge under no load. Put the tractor in gear and drive and it goes into a heavy surge. Turn screw in and get heavy surge, turn screw out and it floods out. What do I need to look at? Obviously I have a high rpm fuel supply issue. Also wondering if float is set too low would it cause this? Any ideas? I'm considering just ordering out a new carb? Anybody had luck with the repro carbs for like $45? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cheetah 14 #10 Posted May 11, 2016 Have you checked the throttle shaft? If the shaft is loose and wobbly, it will allow air to enter and change the air/fuel mixture making the motor run erratic. Also, make absolute sure the points are set correctly. I've dealt with a couple engines that seemed to have carb issues, but setting the points correctly fixed them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #11 Posted May 11, 2016 1 hour ago, Cheetah said: Have you checked the throttle shaft? If the shaft is loose and wobbly, it will allow air to enter and change the air/fuel mixture making the motor run erratic. Also, make absolute sure the points are set correctly. I've dealt with a couple engines that seemed to have carb issues, but setting the points correctly fixed them. I set the points, but will double check them. The shaft is tight, This engine has hardly any use on it. Nearly new old stock. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites