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Went out in the middle of the week, temperatures in the teens, tried to start my C145 plow machine.......no go!
Seems like the ACR is stuck, backfires through the carburetor. Using 10w-30 oil.
The machine always started pretty good. I was thinking I may need a block heater.
Anyone using the heaters? If so what type? wattage etc.
I see pad style, drain plug styles.
Hi, and a happy Christmas to all.
Looking for some advice here, a couple of years ago a bought a cheap K341AS on fleebay, the chap I bought it from said it would not run right and I think he mentioned breathing fire from the carb. He replaced it on his black hood Wheelhorse with a ‘Chonda’ engine. Since then it has sat at the back of my garage but another recent fleebay purchase was a black hood C105 with new engine. So time to do something, but not tomorrow! Turkey, but no sprouts is the order of the day.
I thought as a start I should sort the engine out, but can’t easily test it until it can be mounted on the tractor. I have started to strip it down and the oil is quite clean so hopefully it was looked after. Now for a few questions:-
The engine is painted grey but normally Wheelhorse have a red engine, could this be a rebuilt engine?, I guess the tractor it came off was mid 80’s so a possibility.
When I took the head off it was all quite clean and only took a light brushing and some carb cleaner sprayed on to clean it up. However the top of the piston is stamped with .003 and the block with +3. What does this mean, I thought oversized pistons were plus ten, twenty and thirty thousandth. Has this engine been rebored?
Measuring the valve gaps they are .013” inlet (.008 - .010”) and .020” out (.017 - .019”) is this enough out of tolerance to cause problems? If so it should be an easy fix to get it going again.
i am thinking of just buying a cheap replacement carb having had problems with a carb on my Raider (K301) after two rebuild kits it still leaked petrol and a replacement carb sorted it all (apart from stopping when v hot, see another post of mine)
The bore of the cylinder is very clean and no scratches so hopefully no problems there.
What do you think?
i don’t seem able to upload pictures from my iPad, it says only allowed 30.7KB, what’s going on? How do I sort it?
Hello, my new to me C-160 seems to surge a little when idling at half and full throttle. It also bogs if I go from low idle to full throttle quickly. I moved the governor back and forth with my hand then started it and right after it would go from low to high normally, then later it had trouble again. The surging also seemed to be less when I messed with the governor and the spring but doesn't go away. I plan to clean and maybe rebuild the carburetor and adjust everything. I've never done this on a tractor before. What rebuild kit do I need for the carburetor and is there anything else I should consider doing or get. I have a K series pdf manual that explains the maintenance so I'd like to go through and do everything. I just don't want to mess anything up because it seems to be in decent running condition aside from maybe cleaning up and making adjustments. I've changed the oil and transmission fluid and am moving on to the fuel system. Any help and suggestions are much appreciated.
I was cleaning some oil residue from an earlier dumb move - I try to keep things clean so any leaks that spring up show easily . I noticed along the top of the block towards the center from the right cylinder's valve cover a cast marking , cleaned it off and found this -
The casting mark clearly shows K532 .
Now , is this a case like the single cylinder blocks that were stamped "301" but you had to check internally whether it was a 10hp or 12hp engine ? K241 & K301 blocks are stamped the same and that is common knowledge .
But , what about the K482/K532/K662 twin opposed cast iron engines , same deal ?? Any insight on the blocks or anyone know for sure ?
Or - did someone swap out the original K482 from this '74 D180 to a K532 20hp from a donor ?? Some of the tins seem to be completely black to the bare metal , while others are clearly red underneath the black - so some painting has been done and this tractor it has at best a sketchy history . At one time it lived at the welding shop next to me to the West , or at least for a short time . The folks I got it from are about 40 miles away in a rural area and the gal that sold it had told me her father had gotten it from the town where I live - from the local welder . His son that now owns/runs the shop doesn't remember it but it may have belonged to his Dad who started the business - but he does say he knows his Dad never bought a new Wheel Horse , he'd only owned a Cub or two that he remembered . Anyway , hard telling on it's history and a lot of mods/repairs have been done in the machine's lifetime .
I'm just curious if this is the original engine/block - the tins are marked as a K482 / spec 35222b as it should be to match the '74 model year in the published model year reference list . The model tag was long gone off the tractor when I got it , the year came from figuring out the sum of it's parts as to the model and such . Maybe that casting mark explains why this engine feels so strong , there is a noticeable difference between the 482 and 532 engines before from when we used them in other industrial equipment such as Ditch Witch , ect . The 20hp version just had a lot more torque and grunt compared to the 18hp . The K662 is insanely powerful and quite underrated - I ran one of those years ago on a compactor with a gear drive transport feature - that engine is a whole different animal compared to the 18 & 20 versions .
Hello, I have a D 200. It has been running great, I was having a hard time starting it and I replace the filter and fuel pump. Adjusted the carb, and now under heavy load she will bog down and stall. If you are just driving seams fine, but if you tow a trailer with the mower, I boggs and stalls? Carb Issue or Fuel Pump?